Water temp gage

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Water temp gage
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By rick howerton on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 12:40 pm:

Where would be a good place to put a sending unit for a water temp. gage?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert G. Hester Jr., Riverview, FL on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 01:03 pm:

All the vendors sell a cap and temp gauge that will fit on your radiator neck. They look cool and work well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kirk Peterson on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 01:16 pm:

Here is one option.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George John Drobnock on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 01:22 pm:

You could fabricate a water pipe with an adapter for the sending unit for the left side of your motor. The pipe from the side of the block to the bottom of the radiator. It would be easy yo use either a mechanical temperature gauge or an electric unit operating at 12 volts. For simplicity, I would use the mechanical unit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Rogers - South of the Adirondacks on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 01:50 pm:

Rick- what is the purpose for installing the gauge?

Is it for the "cool" factor or is your engine running hot?

Just wondering...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert G. Hester Jr., Riverview, FL on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 02:28 pm:

George, installing a temp pick-up in that bottom pipe won't work well. That carries the cooled water from the radiator back to the engine and normally only gets slightly warm. Temp gauge there won't tell you much.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Mettling - Dayton OH on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 02:55 pm:

I've got an old Motor Meter water temp gauge with light. $40+ $5 shipping. Face plate is cool, just needs a new sensor wire rigged up in it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 03:11 pm:

Kirk has the best place for accurate sensing of the engine temp. Another good place is to drill a hole and tap into the cylinder head above the 3 - 4 cylinder.
I tried the water inlet near the block and never could get more than a warm temp on the gauge. I have a Motormeter that looks real cool but doesn't work very well even with an extension on the sensor pick up it still doesn't reach the water.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bamford, Edmonton AB on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 03:51 pm:

Brian I'll take it! (As long the needle responds to heat)

PM sent, many thanks in advance.

Chris


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By rick howerton on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 04:13 pm:

A friend is having a problem every now and then with his water temp. We needed some ideas on where to put the sending unit. and that`s what we got. Thanks guys


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George John Drobnock on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 04:18 pm:

Or this from 2011. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/194638.html?1299260335

Correct that the hottest temps are at the top of the engine near the radiator neck. And coolest at the bottom of the radiator. But would not a rapid change in the cool flow indicate a cooling problem?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Walt Berdan, Bellevue, WA on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 04:36 pm:

If what you want is real information at the expense of originality, Kirk's setup works great. If you go a step further and add a sensor at the inlet you can also see how well your radiator is working. Harbor Freight and others sell infrared temp sensors that work fine in the shop or parking lot for checking both areas.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, April 18, 2017 - 04:45 pm:

Radiator outlet is correct place.

Measures the temp of the water passing into the upper tank of the radiator, fairly accurate of temp in the upper cooling jackets of the engine.


Highway speeds 40+mph


Temp at highway speeds


Temp gage sensor



Temp at slowing down after hot run, after Thermo-Syphon pushed up hot coolant and radiator did its work in coolant to air exchange, going about 25 mph.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 10:08 am:

Ever heard of a MotoMeter?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 10:42 am:

Re; I have a Motormeter that looks real cool but doesn't work very well even with an extension on the sensor pick up it still doesn't reach the water.

Motormeters were never meant to touch the water, they read the temp above it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 11:10 am:

If my car steams, it's too hot and I'll know it. If it doesn't steam, I don't care how hot it is, (or isn't).

But, that's just me...

Enjoy your T's!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George John Drobnock on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 11:19 am:

Yep -- someone did state that this here site is for original cars. Enjoy you car -- the way I enjoy my car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 11:23 am:

George,

If you were answering my comment, it wasn't meant to be critical of anyone. Heck, I've got water pumps & distributors! Agh! Release the hounds!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George John Drobnock on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 11:59 am:

No- just sarcasm. Considering that the original car had no instrumentation - except the advanced ones - the ones with starter , generator and ampere gauge - Folks were quite satisfied. Gas gauge - use a broken yard stick. Oil level - if it is dripping oil it has oil. Cooling - as long as it boils over on occasion it is cooling.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 12:14 pm:

Some people would put a nose wheel on a J-3. But, hey, it's their plane. They can do as they wish.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By rick howerton on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 12:28 pm:

Is there suck thing as a water pump pushing to much water and not picking up the heat it should. He`s running a new radiator, He drove in the past about 20 miles, she got hot and quit and boiled out a lot of water. I`m wondering if that water pump isn't the culprit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Smith on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 12:37 pm:

This ought to be good! Yes in theory you can flow to quickly to transfer heat, but my experience with making that happen is in modern stuff. Take the fan off and you can get it hot even quicker. Not sure the T water pumps flow that volume without doing some thinking. I will defer from the whether you should or shouldn't run the pump that is coming, though you might ditch it as an experiment if you have a new radiator. Have fun.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 01:04 pm:

I run a Texas T water pump and ended up putting a restriction plate between the lower inlet and block to prevent the pump from pushing coolant out the over flow. The radiator is Brass works and very clean...after fighting overheating for 5 years, added the water pump. Before the water pump I walked the walk....don't care what others think as long as it works. Very happy with how my model T has been running since adding the water pump.
No heating issues for over 10 years

The Texas T water pump does not leak, has sealed bearings and modern seals along with a stainless steel shaft/impeller. Nothing to maintain.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By rick howerton on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 01:24 pm:

I think you might have nailed it Les, the faster you go the more the pump is going to put out, then run low on coolant.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Wednesday, April 19, 2017 - 05:59 pm:

Rick,
In addition to making a restriction plate (1/8" Thick Brass with 1" hole)....I also increased the pulley size to reduce the pump RPM's. On my car, I also run a small 40 Amp alternator mounted above the water pump. The larger pulley provided better wrap compared to the supplied pulley.
The material that you use can be thinner than what I used....just used what was on hand at the time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 03:26 am:

Rather than drill a hole in a Ford part, could not a piece be fabricated to mount the sender in the top radiator hose? The metal valve stem in tubes works. Just need the right fittings.

That way, the job is reversible with no trace.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By rick howerton on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 11:23 am:

That`s my thinking my friend, and maybe getting rid of the pump.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Thursday, April 20, 2017 - 01:09 pm:

I drilled & tapped out one of the core holes in the block to accept the sending unit - can be seen on the lower left - rear soft plug port.


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