Where would be a good place to put a sending unit for a water temp. gage?
All the vendors sell a cap and temp gauge that will fit on your radiator neck. They look cool and work well.
Here is one option.
You could fabricate a water pipe with an adapter for the sending unit for the left side of your motor. The pipe from the side of the block to the bottom of the radiator. It would be easy yo use either a mechanical temperature gauge or an electric unit operating at 12 volts. For simplicity, I would use the mechanical unit.
Rick- what is the purpose for installing the gauge?
Is it for the "cool" factor or is your engine running hot?
George, installing a temp pick-up in that bottom pipe won't work well. That carries the cooled water from the radiator back to the engine and normally only gets slightly warm. Temp gauge there won't tell you much.
I've got an old Motor Meter water temp gauge with light. $40+ $5 shipping. Face plate is cool, just needs a new sensor wire rigged up in it.
Kirk has the best place for accurate sensing of the engine temp. Another good place is to drill a hole and tap into the cylinder head above the 3 - 4 cylinder.
I tried the water inlet near the block and never could get more than a warm temp on the gauge. I have a Motormeter that looks real cool but doesn't work very well even with an extension on the sensor pick up it still doesn't reach the water.
Brian — I'll take it! (As long the needle responds to heat)
PM sent, many thanks in advance.
A friend is having a problem every now and then with his water temp. We needed some ideas on where to put the sending unit. and that`s what we got. Thanks guys
Or this from 2011. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/194638.html?1299260335
Correct that the hottest temps are at the top of the engine near the radiator neck. And coolest at the bottom of the radiator. But would not a rapid change in the cool flow indicate a cooling problem?
If what you want is real information at the expense of originality, Kirk's setup works great. If you go a step further and add a sensor at the inlet you can also see how well your radiator is working. Harbor Freight and others sell infrared temp sensors that work fine in the shop or parking lot for checking both areas.
Radiator outlet is correct place.
Measures the temp of the water passing into the upper tank of the radiator, fairly accurate of temp in the upper cooling jackets of the engine.
Highway speeds 40+mph
Temp at highway speeds
Temp gage sensor
Temp at slowing down after hot run, after Thermo-Syphon pushed up hot coolant and radiator did its work in coolant to air exchange, going about 25 mph.
Ever heard of a MotoMeter?
Re; I have a Motormeter that looks real cool but doesn't work very well even with an extension on the sensor pick up it still doesn't reach the water.
Motormeters were never meant to touch the water, they read the temp above it.
If my car steams, it's too hot and I'll know it. If it doesn't steam, I don't care how hot it is, (or isn't).
But, that's just me...
Enjoy your T's!
Yep -- someone did state that this here site is for original cars. Enjoy you car -- the way I enjoy my car.
If you were answering my comment, it wasn't meant to be critical of anyone. Heck, I've got water pumps & distributors! Agh! Release the hounds!
No- just sarcasm. Considering that the original car had no instrumentation - except the advanced ones - the ones with starter , generator and ampere gauge - Folks were quite satisfied. Gas gauge - use a broken yard stick. Oil level - if it is dripping oil it has oil. Cooling - as long as it boils over on occasion it is cooling.
Some people would put a nose wheel on a J-3. But, hey, it's their plane. They can do as they wish.
Is there suck thing as a water pump pushing to much water and not picking up the heat it should. He`s running a new radiator, He drove in the past about 20 miles, she got hot and quit and boiled out a lot of water. I`m wondering if that water pump isn't the culprit.
This ought to be good! Yes in theory you can flow to quickly to transfer heat, but my experience with making that happen is in modern stuff. Take the fan off and you can get it hot even quicker. Not sure the T water pumps flow that volume without doing some thinking. I will defer from the whether you should or shouldn't run the pump that is coming, though you might ditch it as an experiment if you have a new radiator. Have fun.
I run a Texas T water pump and ended up putting a restriction plate between the lower inlet and block to prevent the pump from pushing coolant out the over flow. The radiator is Brass works and very clean...after fighting overheating for 5 years, added the water pump. Before the water pump I walked the walk....don't care what others think as long as it works. Very happy with how my model T has been running since adding the water pump.
No heating issues for over 10 years
The Texas T water pump does not leak, has sealed bearings and modern seals along with a stainless steel shaft/impeller. Nothing to maintain.
I think you might have nailed it Les, the faster you go the more the pump is going to put out, then run low on coolant.
In addition to making a restriction plate (1/8" Thick Brass with 1" hole)....I also increased the pulley size to reduce the pump RPM's. On my car, I also run a small 40 Amp alternator mounted above the water pump. The larger pulley provided better wrap compared to the supplied pulley.
The material that you use can be thinner than what I used....just used what was on hand at the time.
Rather than drill a hole in a Ford part, could not a piece be fabricated to mount the sender in the top radiator hose? The metal valve stem in tubes works. Just need the right fittings.
That way, the job is reversible with no trace.
Allan from down under.
That`s my thinking my friend, and maybe getting rid of the pump.
I drilled & tapped out one of the core holes in the block to accept the sending unit - can be seen on the lower left - rear soft plug port.