One thing after another- now radius rod

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: One thing after another- now radius rod
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 08:29 am:

While preparing to reassemble and install the rear end for my '21 Touring, I decided to check out the rear radius rods. They had been leaning in the corner of the garage since I got the car. Removing the nuts on the front of the LH rod I found that the threads were damaged. It appears that the nuts were not tight allowing movement which wore off several threads. So now I'm looking for a LH radius rod. See my ad in the classifieds. Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 08:37 am:

Being a 1921, the rear radius rods shouldn't have any seam on the underside like 1922 up rods, so any 1914-21 radius rod should fit, even if it's been on the RH side before :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John T. Tannehill III, Hot Coffee, MS on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 09:11 am:

Tommy can you take the next size down die and re-thread?
then all you'd need to do is get a grade 5 -8 nut for it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 09:44 am:

Better still Tommy, weld up the damaged threads, file back into round and run a die down the good thread at the start to cut a new thread on the repaired section.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:11 am:

My radius rods do have a seam on the bottom side. So I can use a 22 or newer rod from either side?
Actually, the worn spot is only where the rod fits thru the hole in the bracket. The hole does not appear to be worn. The back nut will still thread past the damaged section. I'm thinking about my options here.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Carey on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:25 am:

Since you have a seam at the bottom you need to use a 22 to 25 left rod.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:28 am:

The 22-25 rods you have were made in a LH and RH version since the split would collect water if mounted with the split towards the top, then rust problems or freeze deformations could develop.
So you'll need a LH side '22-'25 rod - or repair the one you have.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 02:40 pm:

Do you mean the threads that will be between the nuts,where it goes through the hole in the driveshaft tube?
If thats all,space the nuts away from the damaged area with a washer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 04:56 pm:

Yes, the wear is just in about a half-inch area where the rod was thru the "ear". I don't know if the same area will be inside the ear when it goes back together. I suppose it would be nice if a different section of rod fits in the hole, as long as the hole for the cotter key will line up with the castle nut slots and any extra washers can go behind the hole. But the adjustment has to be right most importantly. I might have to install the radius rods and do the adjustments while under the car because of the way I have the car supported.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 08:49 pm:

Tommy,

"...the wear is just in about a half-inch area where the rod was thru the "ear"."

Sounds like you'll be fine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:07 pm:

Tommy,wait a minute.....
Are you sayin' you are going to put the radius rods on the rear axle assembly,when the driveshaft tube is alredy bolted to the axle housings??
I'll save you some trouble,and waste of profanity.
Small drum rear ends must have the radius rods put on as a unit with the driveshaft tube.Maybe big drum,too.Forget.
As far as 'adjusting' radius rods,don't get all shook up.Loosen all the nuts up,Then,on small drum rear ends,snug them up so the rods are pulling slightly and evenly on the housings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:09 pm:

Also,if the slots in the castle nut don't line up,grind the nut a fuzz or two.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:32 pm:

Small drum radius rods CAN be installed with the torque tube in place - large drum is NO WAY !


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Friday, April 21, 2017 - 10:39 pm:

Steve,l may be wrong.
The mist of time may be obscuring my mental image of building up a small drum rear end,getting the ring and pinion depth to suit me.Having just the driveshaft bolted on,no radius rods and having to pull the tube off toget them in.
Is there a trick to it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 01:03 am:

To fit radius rods to already assembled rear axles, I wind the nut on the back side of the mounting flange at the ball right on to the end of the thread. This allows the rod to go further into the flange. At the rear the rod may still seem too long to fit. Usually it will flex enough to scrape into place. A soft face hammer can be of assistance on stubborn ones. This presumes you are prepared to touch up a little paint on the axle housing, which is much easier than dropping the torque tube.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 07:45 am:

Sorta painted myself into a corner. I have the rear of the car supported on jack stands under the frame about in line with where the front of the rear tires would be.
What do you think if I put my "cherrypicker" behind the car and lifted it by putting a 4x4 across under the frame and connected to the 4x4 thru the rear floorboard area just behind the front seat?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 08:20 am:

Don't forget to put a lockwasher on that back nut, or it will happen again!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 09:41 am:

I follow the same procedure as Allan - usually have to "massage" the forked end a bit to flex over the axle tube.

And, yes Tommy to lifting the rear of the car that way or grab it by the spare rim holder - it's bolted to the frame quite substantially.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 10:53 am:

That must have been it.l did not screw the back nut all the way to the rear.And might have been bashful about beating an early forged end radius rod along the axle tube,a '13-'14 style 12 rivet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 01:08 pm:

Larry, I have ordered the attaching hardware kit from Lang's because I didn't have the bolts for the rear of the radius rods, where they attach to the backing plates. I guess the lock washers will be included.
Steve, my '21 has no rear mounted spare carrier. I have non-demountable wheels.
If I lift the car with the cherrypicker like we talked about I can move the jackstands and put the radius rods on before I put the rearend back in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 07:50 pm:

Tommy, the lockwasher Larry is referring to goes between the back nut and the flange on the ball end of the torque tube, not at the rear mounting bolts.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 10:00 pm:

The kit came today. It contains all the attaching hardware for the front and rear of the radius rods, including the lock washers. Now when I get the u-joint I can reassemble and install the rearend. Then it will time for the first ride.


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