To make this trailer work for both the Ford and my side-by-side four wheeler I need to widen the tracks. My thoughts are to place a 2 x 6 down alongside and fasten them to the braces. The question is should I use some type of self tapping screws, or use bolts? Would stainless steel fasteners react with the aluminum?
I give up on the attachment it's saying it's too large and I cannot figure out how to reduce it on my iPad. Sorry about that
I'm just guessing at what you are trying to accomplish, but I would always look at carriage bolts and nuts with lock washers before I looked at screws to hold down a board that a vehicle was resting on.
Carriage bolts for sure and more than 6" wide. I can just picture you driving onto it an falling off the side of the 2x6!
Allen, get on the app store and download "Simple Resize" then set the slider in the app to a little bit higher than "640". It'll take whatever photo you select, and create a duplicate that is smaller that you can post to the forum.
I am confused about this.
Am I the only one?
What are we talking about?
There we go. It's hard to understand from this picture so I apologize. But the trailer has runners that run long wise that the wheels roll up on. We had it made for the T. Well I want to modify it to tow my Polaris...not at the same time. I want to lay a 2x6 along the runners making it wide enough for the Polaris. The 2x6 will butt up perfectly to the height of the aluminum runners. I'll fasten them to the cross members. That is what you see in the picture.
Now I got it.
I would just add a 3/4 inch plywood deck between the wheel tracks.
Or you could use 2x 6 or 8s
I'm with Fred, Painted 3/4 or 1" out door plywood. You will enjoy having a full deck.
From the OP:
"The question is should I use some type of self tapping screws, or use bolts? Would stainless steel fasteners react with the aluminum?
Going to the original question. Yes use carriage bolts. I know threading stainless steel into aluminum will usually cause galling when trying to extract so use an anti seize on insertion, but through bolts should be no problem. I usually use coated steel (zinc)carriage bolts on trailers, I think stainless steel would be cost prohibitive for any possible benefit received.
ALLEN, SS wont react to the crossmembers like iron bolts will,when i built my traile I painted the marine plywood with some good porch & deck, then sprinkle lightly with some sand, where I live it rains A LOT,and this keeps it from getting slippery.good luck and have fun.
Great suggestions folks. I appreciate the feedback. !!!
I wouldn't drill holes or use self tapping screws or anything else into those nice aluminum cross members. In as many locations as you feel necessary, I'd use a combination of two carriage bolts snug in the 2"x 6" (or plywood) shove one down close to each side of the cross member, and then a little strap iron (or aluminum plate) held up under the cross member, snugged up with a washer and nylon nuts. Wouldn't be hard to make a dozen or so of those little plates with a hacksaw and drill press and it'd be a nice neat job,.......FWIW,......harold
DANG SPELL CHECK!!! I wrote "nyloc" nuts and it changed it to nylon!
Oops! I meant DANG auto-correct,....not spell check!
This may sound crazy but I would find a way to use L or U clips and not drill holes in the cross members.
Maybe two carriage bolts with a short strap.