I have a car that was converted to a distributor and wonder if anyone can identify the type?
In low gear the car runs well, but under load in high, it misses badly. I may try a new ignition coil but just need the type of distributor.
James that symbol you see marked on everything is American Bosch. So it's a Bosch distributor. I don't know the exact model but I'm sure someone else will be along shortly to tell you.
Jim, it's definitely Bosch. I have all NOS internal parts for that distributor. contact me email@example.com
The internal parts look like my Bosch 600. The symbols are Bosch.
I suspect the dist. works well but I am having a misfire under load in high gear; the car sounds like it is running on two cylinders and makes a galloping sound and feel.
Does anyone have a 12v coil number I can look up to get a replacement? Previous owner converted the car to 12v.
Many 12 volt coils are not actually intended to run on 12 volts. The 12 volt ignitions of the 50-60-70's all used a ballast resistor to drop the actual ignition voltage to about 7-8 volts. Just something to check
That's what I am wondering about- the coil is very old and sometimes when coils go bad they misfire under load- just need to get a comparable new coil to test this theory.
That is a Bosch front plate distributor. I have them on all my Ts. Very dependable, but of course they have to be in good shape. You should be sure to run a ground wire from the distributor head to the front plate or some other good ground. At higher speeds and higher engine vibration, as when under load, the distributor head to begin to vibrate and get a poor ground connection, which gives the misfire you experience. Something to rule out anyway.
That internal condenser is probably dead. Replace it with a new one. wipe the cap out to get rid of any carbon tracks. Have you checked the point gap?
If it were mine, I would replace the cap and rotor, points and condenser and spark plugs. If it still misfires, possibly the coil. Look around the center terminal on the coil. If it misfires, sometimes it has carbon tracing in that area.
Jerry, Dan and Norman- thanks for the tips.
I'll have to check all that stuff. The car starts right up, idles and drives just fine in low gear. but once in high gear it sounds like it fires only every other cylinder and just lopes along...go back to low and it runs fine again.
Where is a good source for the Bosch internal distributor parts?
Does someone have an application date or model for the ignition coil? (in case I have to replace that too)
Also clean and polish the center of the rotor where the carbon button from the cap contacts.
I would suggest not trying all of the above, all at once. One step at a time. Might even save you some bucks on new cap/rotor/points, just in case that's not the issue.
James. If it was my car, I would proceed like this and test run at every stage!!! Only proceed on after testing
1. Check and adjust point gap to about.015" (open on top of the lobe). Look at points surface. File as needed to clean up. If the points are rough and irregular then the condenser is likely bad and needs replacement
2. Check distributor shaft runout. Should only be a couple of thou!!
3. Replace coil if the above DOESN'T fix things. As I've said earlier if running on 12 volts, it very likely SHOULD have a resistor in series to the coil supply. Any good automotive supply store can sell you a coil AND the correct ballast resistor for a mid 60's Ford car (or similar compatible pairing).
4. check and gap plugs to about.025-.030". Check the plug wires for insulation degrading
5. Check clean cap and rotor
Obviously the order of action is my opinion. But as suggested by others, do one a action and test. The methodical approach will significantly increase your education!!!
I don't suppose it's necessary to comment upon the advice that Les just provided, but I will anyway!
A point Les just made, is, in my estimation, one of the finest pieces of advice I've ever read on the forum:
Make one, AND ONLY ONE, "check" or "adjustment", and then test by running the engine and driving the car. Then, AND ONLY THEN, as Les said, proceed to the next check, or adjustment, or procedure.
Now then, if I could only "practice what I preach"! So often, especially with things electrical like ignition, I start checking and re-adjusting point gap, different condenser, coil wire, plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, etc, etc. If by chance, I've managed to correct the problem,....well,.....fine. But all too often, by NOT "testing" after each procedure, I've inadvertently made some other mistake, and created a new problem. So now what I've got, is the original problem that caused the engine to run badly, but an additional problem that at that point, I don't even know I've created!!! I guess my problem is that I pretty much know all the obvious things to check, and tend to try to do it all at once while I have things all apart. While this does seem logical, it is WRONG, WRONG, WRONG!!! Because now, I have two problems,....the original one, and the one I don't even know I've created! Ya'd think after 60+ years of mess'n with these old Fords, I'd know better, but I still sometimes make this same mistake!
Re-read what Les said and think about it! Really, REALLY good advice,.....thanks Les,......harold
Sorry Jerry,....missed the fact that you pretty said the same thing in fewer words,.....harold
Thanks. When that happens, I always assume that somebody didn't read each and every posting, which I am also guilty of. Who has the time... especially in longer threads. No problem!
Looks like a Bosch I had and sold. Tim