Transmission adjustment - I hope this doesn't get spendy

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Transmission adjustment - I hope this doesn't get spendy
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 09:00 pm:

Hi all,

I've come to the point of starting to take those shake down and adjustment trips to the corner and back in my T and I see my transmission needs adjustment. The low band feels and sounds like it slips and high won't engage unless I'm actively holding the lever all the way forward to the stop.

First up: low speed. Near as I can tell, the adjustment is a jam nut and a bolt of sorts on the right side of the hogshead. I notice in the books that bolt looks like this:

Should I expect the bolt to be turned so far out? Suppose mine is just about flush with the side of the hogshead, time for a new band?

Next: high speed. The adjustment screw that rides on the cam is turned in so far that it may as well not even be there. When I push the lever all the way forward (and I have to do it each and every time I let out the pedal) I seem to get good positive contact with the clutch, but I bet something there is waaaay out of adjustment too. I haven't looked yet to see if there's any adjustment left in the clutch fingers but is that where I should start? If so, what would be a good number of turns on the screws? The manual says half a turn at a time but I suspect I'll need a lot more.

Any help always appreciated. Thanks in advance!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 09:46 pm:

Tim,if your external low adjustment is in flush with the jam nut,you are due for bands.
As far as high goes,the adjusting bolt needs to be totally clear of the speed lever,aka the cam.The slightest contact will cause a good clutch to slip.
Make sure your floorboard is not interferring with forward travel of the hand lever.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 09:51 pm:

Also,search for'adjusting for free neutral'.This will get everything in proper relation.
I type poorly on this damn little screen,or l would go into it.The clutch finger screws still have adjustment when they are flush or a little below.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 10:22 pm:

Thanks guys, I'll pop the cover open sometime soon and see what I can do about those clutch fingers. As for bands, I guess it's time to learn how to do that. What type of lining do you guys recommend for a beginner? I assume the best bet is to go with whatever is most forgiving.

Jim, I've done the free neutral part and I can say it's beautifully free. What I need to do is the step before that where you take all the free out of 'in gear.'


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Saturday, April 22, 2017 - 11:37 pm:

Band adjustment: When pressed all the way down, a pedal should be no closer to the floor board than one inch.

Linings: All kinds have their advocates for various reasons. I use Kevlar for durability. It does require an aggressive foot on the pedals. Step down as quickly and firmly as possible without stalling the engine. Letting the drums slip produces friction, which makes heat, which causes problems.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dale Peterson College Place, WA on Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 12:47 am:

I would check that adjustment screw, from you description it sounds like it possibly could have been shortened somehow. It would really be turned in to the extreme if it is that far in. If you want bands that are forgiving and easy on the drums to prevent damage there, use the Scandinavian woven bands. If you use the peddles correctly, the Kevlar will last longer, putting off the next band change the longest. However the kevlar has the greatest risk for slippage and cracked drums if driven incorrectly. Cracked and broken drums mean a more expensive repair necessitating engine removal and teardown.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 08:56 am:

Tim,

"When I push the lever all the way forward (and I have to do it each and every time I let out the pedal)..."

Well yes, the stick does need to be all the way forward every time you let out the clutch pedal. Why wouldn't it be anyway? (I don't mean that to sound snarky by the way)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 01:22 pm:

Jerry, I suppose I could have been clearer on that. I have the lever all the way forward once I'm under way, but when I let up on the clutch pedal the plates won't start to grip unless I push the lever another 1/4". When I let the lever go it springs back that 1/4" but the clutch keeps gripping well enough on flat land that it doesn't seem to matter. When I push the pedal in and let it out again (without touching the lever through all this) the clutch slips until I give the lever that little extra shove again.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 01:25 pm:

Verify that with the brake lever forward and without your pushing on it, that the clutch bolt has dropped all of the way off the back of the cam.

Check your emergency brake rods, it sounds like they are too long and are pushing on the emergency brake crossbar, causing your high speed clutch to slip.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Pat Kelly Montana on Sunday, April 23, 2017 - 01:37 pm:

I just had to do what Mark talked about. I installed a new Ruckstell and one brake rod was to long. It did just what you described.


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