Have a worn cast iron bearing surface on a hand crank photograph burnisher from the 1860s. Would this be a good application for JB Weld.
Mark - I would ream it back to round and install a bronze bushing for that application. Press fit the bushing into the casting.
Try it out - not too hard to remove if it won't work. Maybe you could fit a thin bushing of a better bearing material on the shaft, and fasten the bushing in place with the JB weld epoxi?
Put a caged needle bearing in it like the non useable u-joint that came with my '21 Touring.
If the shaft is nice and round then this might be a good candidate for a poured babbit bearing. Clean up the casting so the babbit will stick, grease the shaft so the babbit will not stick, dam up the ends and pour full.
After you clean it up just try cutting a strip of plastic from a gallon jug or a butter tub.
I believe I would look at a bronze bushing and reaming it with a brake cylinder hone until the shaft fits.
Ace hardware has a surprising selection of nylon bushings. Also Tractor Supply has a large selection of sprayer fittings that are made of some pretty tough nylon material.
Find one that's close to the size of the shaft of the phonograph burnisher you have. In other words one that will fit the shaft.
Then you can carefully machine, file or use a bench grinder to turn, file or use a bench grinder and turn down the out side to fit in the cast iron mounting bracket.
These cast iron burnishing machines are notorious for breaking, even the thick legs. Have had UPS break two when they dropped the boxes on the porch. This is turned about four revolutions by hand each time so there is not a lot of stress. I'm really reluctant to try to bore it out and install a bushing for fear of breaking the iron ... and a bushing is over kill given the application. Babbitt might work. What do I use as a core that will hold up ... but not stick?
I would try the Jb weld, easy in easy out if it don't work - but I think it would give good service. Good luck
It looks to me like most wear is at the top due to running thick stock through there for years and forgetting to put oil in the little oil holes.
I think you will need to locate where you want the roller centered and mill a new hole... then bush it back to diameter.
If you put in a bushing, you must keep the center of it aligned with the original center of the hole at the other end. ZORO online has all kinds of bushings, but boring out for the bushing and staying on the original center is tricky to do yourself without the right tooling
I think the wear is on the bottom of the hole, from the weight of the roller bearing down on it. maybe brazing or soldering to build up the bottom, then a small grinder to clearance it out?
Fill with Babbitt and bore on the original center. It will work and it will last.
Tough call. The hole is probably oblong and the shaft appears to have a flange on the end caused by the shaft wearing out where it ran in the hole. If you want it to last a decent bushing is in your future. The hole in the mount and the shaft both need truing up and fitting with a bushing.
The wear is on the top. Photographs mounted on cardboard were run through this devise to make the surface of the picture smoother. The roller has a texture that holds the back of the mount and the print is pushed face down against a stationary polished bar underneath. The mounted print was run through one of these about a dozen times, cranking down the pressure of the roller each time.
I would be very tempted to fit and bond a piece of leather in that matches the worn,ovaled away area.
Make a hole for the oil.
Know someone that has book binding machinery with similar problem.Leather solved his problem.
I would be tempted to braze the hole smaller using an oxy/acetylene torch, then bore it to size.
This is a low,nearly zero,rpm shaft.One has to weigh all the fiddling around vs.how much use a bearing/piece of equipment gets.
Not everything needs a perfect repair.Just to be made functional.
My dad used JB Weld once on a heavily scored brake cylinder. I would never have done it as there can be significant heat there. He did, and it worked. It still is not something I would have done.
An old way of doing this was to center up the shaft as near as possible, wrap a thickness of newspaper around it using a little grease or glue to hold in place, dam each side with whatever you can find that will hold up. I have used split wood blocks clamped in place. Then pour with Babbitt. The paper will give the clearance, they make a product for the daming of Babbitt but I do not recall the name or cost. I have done saw mandrels this way with good success and used to build some pea shellers years ago and made my own pillow block bearings this way. KGB
I use JB Weld a lot but wouldn't use it for a bearing.