I am trying to pull the front bearing race on my 26 Roadster. Is there a trick other than trying to weld them? I only have a small Mig and I am not sure if that will work. If you think it will work I will give it a shot. I thought about bending a screwdriver to get the edge of the race but not sure if that will work or not. If anyone has some suggestions I would appreciate it very much.
I just replaced the wheel bearings on my 26, used an eight inch punch driver and knocked them out with a hammer. Hit one or two solid hits on one side, then hit the other to keep it straight as you drive it out. There are two notches 180 degrees apart for pulling (or in this case driving) the bearing out. Goes quickly.
For reinstalling you really should use a bearing press. To make it easer you can put the bearing cups in the freezer for a few hours. Also a shot of penetrating lube helps. If you don't have access to a press a local mechanic can do it cheap. I strongly recommend against driving in a new bearing cup, one slip and you can bugger the surface and destroy a new bearing. Also you don't want to drive in the new cup crooked.
Use a punch and knock them out from behind. The 26 hubs have notches behind the race for this.
I tried to knock it out with the punch I normally use for wheel bearings but I cannot catch enough of the edge to get it t move. I took a rod and notched it so I could get a little more of the edge and still no go. The outer race has a crack in it and is very worn. Maybe I can use the mig to weld a small lip to catch and knock it out that way. Worth a shot I guess. The Left side bearings look good as new but on the right they are shot. I have ordered all new Timken bearings and races so I have a few days before they will arrive to work on it.
If they are cracked that can cause a problem. I have miged them out before but it can be touchy. Put some anti spatter on the hubs first and lay a big nasty bead on them. This has worked for me on other cars in the past, but like I said, its not 100%
When re-installing them be carful the set them right, if you look at my before photo you can see that the previous owner of my T installed new Timken bearings, and they wore out in a few hundred miles due to poor workmanship. Don't want to ruin 200 bucks in new bearings!
Best of luck!
or you could make a set of these
Yes, your little welder will work fine and the race will fall out by itself! Just weld a nice large bead around the inside of the race if you don't have any luck with a drift tapping it out from the back.
I will try the welder and if that done work the tool in that link looks like it will do the trick. I will get the material for that and make it just in case I need it again. Hope not but someone might. Thanks
Kind of excited the welder worked. Put a bead about half way around the inner race and it tapped fairly easy. I did have to make a punch with a angle to catch the edge of the race but it would not budge before the weld. I welded 2 large welds on the outer race where the punch could catch it and it came out no problem. I bought 4 races and 3 bearings from Rock Auto and they were delivered today. They are out of stock on the right outer beating (09076) so I will have to pay the big money for the one outer and still save $90.00. All in all a good day working on the T
look in the back issue(several months ago) of vintage ford. they had an article on making a race removal tool out of 3/8 bar stock. I made both of them, one for inner and one for outer. have done 6 set of front hubs with them. best and easiest way to get the races out.
Did Rock have them as T bearings or by spec, what is their PN and price?
They had all but the 09076 in stock. Shipping is cheap also.