I have a 1922 Centerdoor. I want to remove the splash aprons as part of my respray. It appears that I might have to remove/lift the body in order to do that. Is that correct?
Thanks.
Yes just lift high enough to slide the shield out also need to remove running boards. There is a channel that runs under the edge of the running board. Check also towards the rear there might be a screw holding the shield to the body sill.
Helpful hints.
Loosen the two rear cross member bolts, only about a full turn should be enough. The side/splash shields/aprons do not attach to the car on the rear-most pair of body bolts.
Remove all other body hold-down bolts as those bolts also go through the side/splash aprons/shields.
Use a small pry bar and a couple/few wedges to hold the front end of the body up about a quarter inch. That is usually plenty loose to allow you to pull out and replace the side/splash aprons/shields.
Leaving the two rear bolts in place greatly reduces the chance of accidentally pushing the body off of the chassis and having it bounce onto the floor. It is usually also wise to put at least one forward bolt in place to help secure the body a little more. If transported a considerable distance for moving, selling or having it painted reasons, another bolt or two would also be wise. (Although my Paige was trailered hundreds of miles with only two bolts in it to keep the body from sliding. The heavier body and wider frame made a big difference with it.)
Splash aprons didn't come out until the 1924 model year. What you are talking about is a splash shield! Bruce McCalley is one of the ones who started calling a splash shield a splash apron. I had to get Russ Furstnow to change the judging guidelines to correct this error, and it has been done. This is trivia I know, but it's nice to use the correct terminology when needed.
I found this after having to lift the body several times when building my coupe, I discovered one day that my small 2 ton bottle jack was just the tool for lifting the body. Unscrew the height adjuster out of the jack and insert a length of all thread or similar round stock, I used all thread 'cause it can be adjustable with a nut screwed on, would even be better to have TWO of them!