So I'm About To Rebuild My Coil Box

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: So I'm About To Rebuild My Coil Box
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Govoni on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 11:40 am:

I bought a Fun Projects kit for my 26 coil box. My question is: What is the best way to remove the center brace? On side looks to be bent at 90 degrees and the other side is split and bent to the right and left. Do you just bend the 90 degree side, slide it out and then when you put it together hammer it down with a big center punch and a bit of paint to cover your hits? Also the directions say to grind out the rivet heads. Is drilling this better so as to not damage the box?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G.R.Cheshire on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 11:57 am:

I bent the split side on mine easily done with needle nose pliers then it pulls right out


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G.R.Cheshire on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 11:59 am:

Didn't read the second part of the question I drilled out the rivets using my drill press worked fine


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Govoni on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 12:36 pm:

Thanks. How did you bend it back? I'm planning on powder coating mine. So do you just hammer them back and then touch up paint?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G.R.Cheshire on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 12:46 pm:

I just bent them with my thumbs until I got them close then tapped them down with a punch


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 01:01 pm:

Here's something I did when reinstalling the cross bar: I slipped in 2 credit card sized pieces of plastic between the coils and the box at the back (side without the contacts)side. 2 cards fit behind all 4 coils (1 card 2 coils). Then install & bend the tabs & remove the cards. It prevents making the bar too tight which makes coil removal hard.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Govoni on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 01:21 pm:

Charlie. Good point they were hard to get out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel D. Chicoine, MD, Pierre, SD on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 02:20 pm:

Just got done doing a rebuild on my 20 Monday night. I like the idea of the credit cards as the bar is now a little tight. I used brass washers, one on each end of each porcelain, instead of the fiber washers which I couldn't find and the ones I took out are shot. I hope that's OK. Where do you find fiber washers? I drilled the original rivets with a 1/8 inch drill until they fell out. I had to drill a 1/8 hole off the end of the bottom brass piece through the new bottom plate, coming next to the bottom screw head, as the screw type rivets made it impossible to pass a soldered wire through them like the directions said. The car ran well before, and does today, but I no longer worry about shorts in the rain!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 03:07 pm:

Robert
I have rebuilt many coil boxes with the FunProjects (now Lang's) coilbox wood replacement kit.
Three key thing to be careful about: BE SURE to coat the steel screws threads with Paraffin when pre-threading all the holes in the bottom and back pieces before installing the brass screws (DON'T SKIP THIS STEP or you may break the screw off and removing it is near impossible to repair and don't ask me how I know this?); Since you will discard the original coil box wood back, heat the ends of the two split tabs of the center divider with a propane torch and bend them straight enough to remove the divider strip. BE SURE to anneal the strip ends after removal so they don't break off upon re-installation. When re-installing use one coil inside the box to get the coil box width correct and bend over the annealed tabs. Touch up the ends of the tabs with black paint and finally, you can easily remove the bottom contact strip rivets by using a wood chisel on the end of the wood through the center-line of the rivet holes to split the wood away. Then you can easily grind the heads of the rivets to remove them from the contact strip.
Here is a trick I learned to make the coil easy to remove from the coilbox; rub the three wood sides of all four coils with a block of paraffin they will slide in and out of the completed box more easily.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 03:13 pm:

Noel:

Your kit was probably a knock off one so make sure the material it was made out of is not polyethylene since it has about as much carbon in it as wood has. Fun Projects kits use only stainless steel rivets and the insert parts are made per factory drawing dimensions. If you have to drill holes then check for other issues since you don't want water to get in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Menzies on Friday, May 05, 2017 - 12:19 pm:

I bought a kit from a reputable vendor and I had some issues the brass connectors have round holes and half were punched left of center and half were right of center. The bolts were carriage style and the holes in the tabs are round. Yes they will tighten in there but are messy. Some vendors carry square holed tabs like the originals.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Friday, May 05, 2017 - 12:28 pm:

Fun Projects period. None of these problems exist. You're not saving any $ by not buying the best.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Friday, May 05, 2017 - 01:12 pm:

Shoot. I'm just gonna ask.
Dumb question maybe.

How can we be CERTAIN we're getting genuine Fun Projects parts/kits when we order out of a catalog or online?

For instance; I've been trying to talk a friend of mine into putting a kit in the coil box on his '25 TT and I have 2 boxes to do myself in the future.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Govoni on Friday, May 05, 2017 - 02:44 pm:

Just order off their WEB page. Lots of good stuff to buy.

http://www.funprojects.com/products/5001BRK.aspx


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Friday, May 05, 2017 - 03:32 pm:

John's not taking orders directly right now.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Friday, May 05, 2017 - 04:55 pm:

You can obtain the original style bifurcated spring Prosper Bronze coilbox contacts developed by FunProjects from Lang's Old Car Parts.
In many cases you can reuse the original Ford bifurcated spring phosphor bronze coilbox contacts.
Beware of the cheap copper plated steel coilbox contacts, they are useless. The copper plating wears off, the steel corrodes and your Model T will start missing.


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