Engine bottom end questions

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Engine bottom end questions
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Sunday, May 07, 2017 - 09:53 pm:

Here's a short video of a few of the things I found after pulling my engine ('24-ish), dropping the pan, generator , timing cover, etc...
Comments and suggestions welcome!

I hope to be stripping the block and taking it, the crank, and camshaft in for magnaflux testing, shortlyMortensenThanks in
advance!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=5z_7QwTT9Vg

Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Sunday, May 07, 2017 - 09:54 pm:

Sorry... should have been on the forum...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n LakeOzark,Missourah on Sunday, May 07, 2017 - 10:12 pm:

The two metal pieces are not broken in two, they were made that way. That felt thing is a seal and new it looks like a piece of rope and it does have a wire in the center.
George n L.O.,Missourah


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Sunday, May 07, 2017 - 11:23 pm:

Your engine is tired, very tired and needs a rebuild. Number one rod has lost all babbitt and the others are well worn.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 03:21 am:

The babbitt found on the gasket has melted out of the rods. Not good to drive until it fails so bad - maybe you had a bad oil leak or a clogged oil line so the front of the engine didn't get any oil?

The nails in the front felt seal is probably an old shade tree fix to tighten up the lower seal with just the timing cover off. To change the lower seal the previous owner would have had to pull the engine and the pan = much more work..
For 1927 Ford improved the front seal with a rubber core, they're available now from the vendors as a Model A seal that has to be cut some to fit a T engine.

The two steel parts in the pan bottom are there to serve as nuts for the inspection pan bolts. They're in two parts to be able to put them in place from the bottom. With the screws tightened, they'll stay in place without problems :-)


Hopefully the steel to steel banging of the rods to the crank hasn't fatigued it yet, magnafluxing should show if the crank is worth grinding.

The MTFCA electrical manual has a description on how to rewind the magneto, but there are a couple of great magneto rewinders out there that'll sell you a good coil ring in exchange, saving lots of work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Young in Mays Landing, NJ on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 06:46 am:

That engine was getting no oil at all to the front of the pan, either from a clogged oil line or running it very low on oil. The brand new crank pawl was surprising. I see a $7,000 rebuild in your future...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Michael Rogers on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 06:54 am:

The seal in the front channel is a rope seal and the "wire/nail" is graphite. As stated earlier, the two metal pieces are called horseshoes and are two pieces from the factory. The rods 2-4 are probably not too bad and most will slide back and forth on the crank, tho, not so much. Those are probably not too bad. #1 is a real problem. All babbitt is gone and if you drove it much, the crank may also be damaged beyond repair. Only a thorough inspection by a machinist with the proper tools will determine that. The shims look like someone just cut them out of a beer can or some such. It is unbelievable how far these cars will drive with such damage and "Mickey Mouse" repairs. Looks like you are in for some downtime and a proper rebuild. This would be the prudent way to proceed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G.R.Cheshire on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 07:01 am:

The front part of the crankshaft looks like it was very hot and has "cooked off" all of the oil. even if the magnaflux were O.K. I would be Leary of it as the temper had to change looks like a strong candidate for the 2 piece crank club if reused. JMHO


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 09:10 pm:

A few more photos... pulled the pistons and connecting rods








Off to watch some of Mike Lender's videos!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andy Loso St Joseph, MN on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 09:18 pm:

Looks like the cracked head was a blessing in disguise.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, May 08, 2017 - 09:25 pm:

I think so!! It had quite a bit of water in the oil by the time it got hauled home and taken apart, but obvious signs of heat and no oil.


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration