Here's an interesting question. Has anyone used a early VW bug steering box in a model t? I read somewhere that it has been done but can not find any previous posts.
I'm sure it can be adapted. Just realize that you typically need to add torsional stiffness to the frame rail or brace to the engine. A wide selection of steering U joints are available. The "DD" version is easiest to install
I have in stock a "lock plate " to remove the triple gears at the top of the column
In bucket T hotrods they used to put VW bus steering boxes, but nowadays buses seems to be more more expensive than bucket T's, so they use other alternatives. I would prefer more period solutions, like the Model A steering Clayton Paddison has in his roadster - or the improved '37 Ford steering Ralph Ricks used in his brass pickup.
Another interesting question is "why"?
I have a VW bus box in mine but see no advantage over a new Vega box from Speedway Motors. Yes, some bracing for torsional stress is required.
As Tim says "WHY would you want to ?"
I expect to drive my new speedster in excess of 100 mph and just want a better steering feel. I drove my single stick Fronty sprint car at 70 mph and I feel the need for more speed.
Can we look forward to a thread regarding speed modifications? If I were running an OD I would be expecting similar results, I'll be happy to run 55-65
IMHO the 1 1/2 turns lock to lock ratio allows the wheel to be wrenched from your hand if you hit a kerb or pothole. That's why Ford kept making the wheel biggerr and why there were all those period anti- kickback gizmos.
We had a couple of looong threads on this about 20 yrs ago - RDR contributed a lot and I did experiments & drawings to illustrate. Can't get them the archive cos they got lost in the Great Forum Server Crash.
I don't want to modify my sorta-original car so I have gone back to an original short drop-arm, giving 1 3/4 turns l-to-l and have a Philips Irreversible Steering. The Philips reduces kickback definitely but I haven't tried slamming into a kerb. If I drove fast or far I would go looking for a different steering box. Don't forget that back-in-the-day the German authorities asked for the T to be fitted with irreversible worm gear.
I will now wait for the storm of "I've driven 1000s of miles with no problem" replies. I will just say - add 'yet' to that sentence.
One of poster on this forum got too close to the side of the road in his speedster and it pulled him off he road and up a bank and the car rolled over on him.
I have seen an early VW steering box on a speedster but can't post the picture I took of it.
I remember it was mounted on a tube like the were on the VW.
I installed a Nissan Sentra rack & pinion on my '26 but it is a little too slow.
I would recommend the vega box or VW.
I have a '35 Ford box that intend to put on my '26 in place of the rack & pinion.
We used Vega boxes on model a hot rods a few years ago but I wouldn't mess up a good car model a or t for it anymore. I have a thing for the originals now. My friends like grieving me about the stock model A and Ts... laughs on them I am loving it...
OK, my speedster and I like roads that twist and turn. Top speed isn't my main objective but I do like to climb hills and power through turns. Ford's stock steering is no way up to the task so I've made a variety of changes over the years. In the current form, there are 20's Chevy spindles and steering arms on my dropped T front axle. I still run cross steering but from a VW bus box that has a Vega pitman arm (compensates for the longer Chevy steering arms). With the gear reduction in the top of the steering column eliminated, I have right at 2 1/2 turns lock to lock on the steering. Steering is easy and stable and no nasty "grab it out of your hands" kickback from the stock setup. YMMV and how well you install and brace things will impact your safety and comfort.
Stupid comment #2 for tonight.
I am a steering expert so listen carefully!
If you want to turn right move the big wheel clockwise.
If you want to go left move the big wheel counter clockwise.
If you are only familiar with digital clocks I can still help.
Put your hand on the top of the big wheel and move it in the direction you want to go.
Almost forgot - the vehicle has to be moving to change direction otherwise you will be putting a flat spot on the tires as they scrub back and fourth.
I would continue but I need a bit more SC.
"Why? - IMHO the 1 1/2 turns lock to lock ratio allows the wheel to be wrenched from your hand if you hit a kerb or pothole. That's why Ford kept making the wheel bigger and why there were all those period anti- kickback gizmos. " says Jem.
Yes, back in the days of dirt roads and wagon ruts but we have come a wee way since then ?
And I would suggest that if you are intent to " try slamming into a kerb", you would be better saving your pennies for a wheel rebuild ! ?
Ivan the roads in the UK are heading back to the 20s! This year's April Fools tour was labelled ' a tour of Buckinghamshire's world-famous potholes'
And the wheel rebuild is why I haven't crash- tested the Philips.