Front Hub Question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Front Hub Question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By gary hammond-Forest, Va on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 05:39 am:

One of my front wood wheel hubs is plain, no markings with speedometer gear holes. The other is marked with a large ''Ford'' logo and the number 13 raised a little further around the body. Any info?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 07:08 am:

Addition of the Ford name on almost all parts was a policy that begun in 1919, so it's likely the marked hub is 1919 or newer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 07:14 am:

Is it a grease zerk on the spindle bolt?
If so, just remember grease won't run by gravity down to the lower bushing like the original oil did, so for proper lubrication you may want to add another zerk at the spindle body in between the bushings, where it's center drilled.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 07:17 am:

Gary, I would be more concerned with the way the hub bolts have/have not been piened. The threads need to be dumped enough to stop the nuts coming loose, not just damaged on the end to stop them coming off. Once you have done a few miles they should be checked/tightened some more and re piened.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 09:32 am:

The hub with speedometer holes is 1918 or earlier. The 1917-1918 version is stouter than 1916 and earlier. That's why I used 1917-1918 hubs for my new front wheels so I could add notches for Timken removal.

I agree with Allan about the nuts and bolts. When all are tight, I grind off the ends of the bolts until they're almost even with the nuts. Then I stake them like this.



Two methods of keeping nuts on are common. One is staking, as in the picture, with a punch. The other is peening, which is mashing the threads with a hammer. I don't know if one method is better than the other.

I've seen various ways of spelling the second method. My dictionary says it's peen.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By gary hammond-Forest, Va on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 04:50 pm:

Ha! I knew I'd get comments on the non-peened bolts. These wheels I respoked using Steve's great video. They will be peened when I remove the wheels and paint the hubs. This is a work in progress, and will be a parade vehicle when completed, driven only on closed courses. Did anybody notice the missing grease seals? Also the axle spindles reversed and the zerk kingpin set I wouldn't use on a street car, only the oiler type. A display and parade relica REO truck, built for fun at 10 mph max. A ball Pein Hammer peens the bolt ends. Thanks everyone for all of your great input.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 08:43 pm:

Steve, I spelled it pein and pien and both ended up being red underlined by spell check. I settled on pein. My dictionary lists it as peen with an alternative being pein. Peen makes more sense, but who says English spelling is sensible?

Allan from down under.

N.B. When previewing this post, only pien is highlighted as a possible spelling error!


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