Starter Switch

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Starter Switch
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam Mendenhall on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 06:00 pm:

On an original starter switch that goes through the floor board and mounts to the frame, I want to relocate it and mount it in wood. Does this switch have to be grounded? Thanks for any info. Sam


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James G Fisher III Peachtree City, GA on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 06:04 pm:

No. Its just a through switch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam Mendenhall on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 06:24 pm:

Thanks James


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Coleman-Grand Marais MN/Detroit MI on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 06:44 pm:

That is correct.

It is alternatively a good idea to add a 6 volt starter solenoid which carries the bulk of the current when starting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, May 17, 2017 - 07:37 pm:

Sam, there's a good deal of pressure applied to the starter button...you'll really need to have a significant mounting regimen if you are using wood.

As for adding a solenoid as a good idea, not everyone shares that opinion


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 02:29 pm:

I totally agree with Scott on this - listen to his words of wisdom.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Whelihan Danbury, WI on Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 07:45 pm:

I'd have to cast my vote with David. I am using an original switch with cleaned contacts to energize the solenoid. Had it installed for three years. Works great and my original switch should last for years now.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 09:06 pm:

Sam;

What is your application? I'm going through something similar with adding a starter to my '11. I ended up making a simple bracket for a solenoid that mounts using bolts from the hand brake lever. I used a solenoid that requires voltage to operate rather than a ground start. I took a wire from the hot terminal of the solenoid, routed it through a '15 style headlight switch as a master power switch, then ran from that switch to my brake light switch and a push-button switch for the starter. It is a modern marine quality momentary push button that I will paint the same color as the body, so it will not be noticeable, and it's placed just below the front seat on the driver's side. I had considered using an original switch but was concerned with mounting it to the wood, and I wanted a cutoff switch before the starter button for safety reasons.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Brough on Friday, May 19, 2017 - 02:17 pm:

Another word of caution. In my other hobby, military vehicles, there is much clamor over the foot starter switch repo that are out there. The switch is located on the floor, but on the slanted riser and used the toe instead of the heel of the shoe. If not pressed down exactly straight, the switches burn out quickly. The straight down pressure of the heel is much preferred, IMO.
If you are moving the switch to a location that uses a different angle of attack, be cautious.
Whey I got my jeep prior to restoration, bubba had put a switch on the dash and the doodlebug I used as my donor had a foot switch wired up to the dash as it had no floorboards in it at all.

Just curious...where are you thinking of placing it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Blancard, Fredericksburg Va on Friday, May 19, 2017 - 03:44 pm:

I'd be interested in seeing photos of how you guys mounted a solenoid. I've got a '24 touring. I've disassembled and cleaned the original switch and it works ok. But I like the idea of a solenoid. Thanks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Friday, May 19, 2017 - 06:43 pm:

I used a piece of 1 1/2" angle iron and cut one of the sides off where it didn't support the solenoid. I welded a couple of nuts on the inside of the bracket for convenience but you don't have to do that. You can see where I cleared the paint for a bonding connection to the engine block, but I've changed that and ran the battery ground directly to the engine pan. I now have a bonding jumper between the engine and frame below the rail and out of the way. The paint has been removed on the bottom side of the bracket and the inside of the frame rail and a star washer is placed between them for bonding purposes.

I have the body off the frame for paint, so I've removed the battery and starter cables and the wiring.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Saturday, May 20, 2017 - 03:08 am:

Forget the freaking starter, it's got a crank on the front for a reason, use it!
I only use the bloody starter if I stall in traffic and can't get out to crank it over without holding things up. Besides, its not expected for you hop in and stomp on a starter...everybody has heard their grandparents tell them about these cars and having to crank them...so give them a taste of the past, crank your car over...folks love seeing somebody actually doing what they've only heard of people doing in the past or seen in old Laurel & Hardy, Harold Lloyd and Buster Keyton movies (if they've ever seen any of those). :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert L. Cook on Saturday, May 20, 2017 - 02:46 pm:

Kinda fun to use the crank. Took me a while to get the throttle set right and how many times to choke, but once you get it right it is satisfying.


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