Here are the washers that I have. I will take them to work tomorrow and measure and mark the thicknesses on them. The two brass ones on the left are new ones that I bought from Lang's. Next are the steel ones that were in my rear axle when I disassembled it.The brass one on the right was also in mine when I got it. The other one was an original one, beginning to crumble. If the thickness of the old brass one is such that I need to use it, what about the lack of lubrication grooves? Should I cut grooves in it like the new ones have?
Oh, guess who figured out how to post pics!
Did I just hijack my own thread? Sorry, let's talk about the washers. Thanks.
Tommy, it wouldn't hurt to make the oil grooves. I would keep the original brass thrust. When adjusting the thickness of the new ones to set your clearances, make them each different thicknesses too. Then when you come to set your gear mesh, you can juggle them, and perhaps your original, from side to side, to vary the gear mesh to get the optimal setting.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Here's what I have. The old brass washer measures .172 but is larger in diameter , inside and out, than the new ones, which are .200 thick. I guess I wont be using it. See the sizes marked on the steel ones. It's time to start mixing and matching.
I have to start somewhere so I think that I will try the thickest steel (.092) on the drivers side, outside and the thinnest (.084) one one the drivers side inner. That will locate the ring gear toward the center the most, correct? Then if I need more "space" between the ring gear and the pinion gear I will be putting gaskets between the spool and the diff housing, right? Any better ideas? Thanks
Or should I start by dividing the thicknesses up as equally as possible, centering the ring gear in the housing and hope for the best? Actually there would be only .002 total difference from side to side, but using the .092 spacer on the drivers outside, instead of one of the .084s would put the ring gear .008 more toward center, correct?
Also, would you pack the inner axle bearings and do all the "final" prep for assembly the first time going together, just in case all is well and good to go on the first try?
Tommy, First you must check so the total is OK by assembling the axle housings with the differential and axles but without the driveshaft. If you can't get the halves together - and the steel washers are in their proper places glued with grease, then you can measure how much you must take off the total to get it together without any play for the differential. The proper play is set by inserting a gasket, but it can be left out if the play is OK without it. If the halves goes together and there's too much play, you'll have to find thicker washers or shims.
After that test you're ready to shift what you've got for best play to the pinion while maintaining the total
Don't forget to test the ring gear in several places around - it could be slightly warped. A paper of proper thickness is a good test - let it through the gear, should be folded but not sheared. Use an outer Hyatt on the axle too when testing.
Get Chaffins axle book sold by the club and it shouldn't be rocket surgery
Don't forget the fiber washer between the axle shafts. That too may require thickness adjustment to get the right spacing.
Thanks much. I have the book. I have put the axles in the diff assy with one new fiber disc and it seems good according to Chaffin's book. I was surprised at that time because I have read several times that one fiber disc is never enough and two, unmodified, is always too much. I have assembled, and then disassembled, the rest of the rearend (except outer bearings) and the resistance to rotating, if you know what I mean, seemed right but I just put two steels and a brass washer on either side, not knowing then what thicknesses I had. Now I have the option of moving the ring gear left or right, knowing the size of the washers. I will be happy to get this part of the project done .After this I will be able to drive this thing for the first time. Summers going by and time's a wasting.
I had this same observation of less than expected space between the axle ends on my Ebay Ruckstell during its buildup. It turned out that one of the axles was not fully pressed / bottomed out into its axle gear.
If you have a press, put each axle/gear combination into the press and make sure that the axle is fully pressed onto the gear, fully capturing the two keepers.
Thanks Mark, I will check that.