More trouble shooting running rough on battery

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: More trouble shooting running rough on battery
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 07:13 pm:

Continuing an earlier thread WHY would an engine run very rough and ragged on battery but smooth as silk on Magneto? Obvious to me is the magneto throws more spark.

I changed all plugs to Champion X

Turning over engine with plugs on block to see spark I observe to me a weak spark on all plugs.

Good battery 6 volt.

Clean connections from battery to starter and 6 volt supply line

tomorrow I will hook up a 12 volt battery do same test. If I now have a bright spark on 12 vs 6 More trouble shooting on supply of 6 volt to ignition switch ?? .


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 10:50 pm:

you likely need to rebuild the coils and properly adjust them. Your complaint is common to old or maladjusted coils.

You will likely see an improvement with 12V, but you're not treating the true cause.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 11:04 pm:

Ask Ron Patterson, but I have never had a smooth engine (above idle) on 6V. For me 6V is for starting and "mag" is for driving. Maybe my coils never have been spot on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Tuesday, May 23, 2017 - 11:10 pm:

Bat is 6 (or 12)V DC, Mag is 20 to ??? V AC. Lots more electricity on Mag for operating the coils.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 12:16 am:

The Air Force is always happy to step up when the Navy needs help. (Check our profiles.)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Troy Todd on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 01:10 am:

I ran into the same problem last year. It turned out my "smart charger was charging to 6V and shutting off. When I charged it with a manual charger the battery went to 6.45V and ran fine. Sort of like when a 12V battery is at 12.0 V it's actually pretty low. We had that problem with the race cars and went to manual battery chargers on a timer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By JohnH on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 03:22 am:

Not having a working magneto was the incentive for me to learn how to make coils work well on 6V. It all depends how everything is set up, and the condition of the coils and timer. Equal dwell time for the coils also helps. BTW, done over 30,000km with the points I rebuilt the coils with, so have to query the often assumed short points life with 6VDC.
speedo
Note the speedo is showing km/h. 72km/h = 45mph


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brendan Hoban on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 05:57 am:

Been there on a no-generator 22T, just charged the 6V battery and it was fine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 08:13 pm:

Troy Todd excellent suggestion ! Yes the coils are new rebuilt and stored for past three years from Ron Patterson


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Wednesday, May 24, 2017 - 10:05 pm:

Are you saying this just started happening or was it always this way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 06:35 am:

John Kuehn bought this car last Fall at Auburn Classic auction Just took it out of storage so never ran it before


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 09:21 am:

Well trouble shooting solution. started car on 6 volts ran on battery, missing, rough stubble engine. Hooked 12 volt battery to running engine via 6 volt battery posts Car ran smooth and beautiful So I will replace 6 volt battery with new. 6 volt battery read 6.14 volts at rest


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 10:57 am:

I have 3 cars with working magnetos. I start on 6 volts battery and switch to magneto. occasionally I forget to make the switch. The engine runs just as smooth on battery as it does on magneto, however, I have a hill to climb and when I get to that hill, I can tell the difference. It has less power on the hill and on flat the top speed is slower, but it still runs on all 4 either way.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brad Marble on Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 12:01 pm:

Gap your spark plugs no greater than .025 inches and set your coils down to about one ampere, it won't run like it was on the magneto but it should be acceptable. Brad.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Friday, May 26, 2017 - 06:38 am:

Perhaps this post will help someone years from now Potential cause " In previous posts I had been complaining of a rough running engine on battery but smooth running on magneto. (new coils plugs wires etc) When I hooked up a 12 volt battery to the 6 volt after starting, through the 6 volt battery engine runs fine therefore probable less than 6 volts getting to coils?? Well I hooked up the positive cable to the battery and got a big spark!! Well something is grounding. Looked under starter switch burned wood and wires! In summary current running through one of the two battery terminals through a 1/2 inch bolt holding the foot switch to the frame through a wood support block! Burned through!. Took apart switch, one of two terminals is loose. I intend in insulate both terminals under the foot switch as it contacts the support plate and try again tomorrow. Question, it seems the two brass pads on the switch hooked to the battery and starter should be insulated from the starter switch frame? Right?? I will try a plastic tube sleeve over the posts?


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