I got my new Langs catalog yesterday! Great stuff. Went to order " top iron corner wood fillers" for my 26 roadster and they are not in there? The 2015 book has them. Am I missing something? Maybe I can call tomorrow and find out if they are available? I have a list to order anyway. Hope they are not discontinued
This is what I did on my 26. I got Oak Veneer at Home Depot. This is the type about 2"wide with glue on the back. You heat the veneer to make the glue stick. I used layer after layer of the veneer until I got it the right thickness. I used a hair dryer to heat it to make the glue stick. It worked very well and it has been in use for over 10 years.
Norman, did you make the bows with the bends in one piece?
Or, you could go to Home Depot and get 2" wide x .375 thick x about 10" long White Ash and steam bend the corners yourself...that's what I did
It takes two (one on top of the other) to fill the space, but it's a lot stronger than oak veneer and it's far more durable also...oak's grain is totally wrong for bows or the corners because the to stress...the corners are where the pads are nailed to (6 nails per corner), they also help keep the structural alignment (along with the straps) of the top.
Unless you've got an "Ov-Glove" be prepared to burn your fingers a bit...that wood gets hot and it retains it for a good while too.
No, I used the bows from one of the vendors but made the ends out of the veneer. The most important thing is the front bow. The distance between the two clamps which attach to the windshield will change according to where you drill the holes for the rivets. Be sure to get that exact distance and you will be all set.
Martin, how long did the steam treatment take? How much overbend for spring back did it take?
Took about 2 to 3 hours to steam two corner pieces for one corner. I used an electric double boiler. But like I said they get really hot, so what I did to form them was to make a really hard bend then stuff them into the corners and use "C" clamps on the ends to hold they to that shape whilst they cooled...once cooled I bent the bow tabs over.
Remember to taper the ends some...the side that fits into the lower portion of the bow should be more tapered than the other end (the reason for tapering the sides is so that you don't have to fight with really hot wood trying to get it into the corners). Make sure you put them both in at the same time too...it's harder to try and put one in, wait till it cools and then put the other one in. Because it is sort of a squeeze getting them in (wood swells a bit).
I did all the bows in one day...but allow for screw ups...I made a few (bent them too hard and they broke) and of course couldn't use those pieces.
There was something on the forum a few years back, which is what gave me the idea to try it.
Martin, do you have any photos of your steamer? Also any new drawings?
Instead of steaming, just used a bucket and another as a lid on the BBQ grill. Got the water to boiling and then put in the cut sticks, lid on loosely. Boiled for 30 min. or so, then bent as Martin did, using c-clamps. Glued the two strips together, for more strength, the poly glue is water activated so the hot wet sticks got stuck fine! Oh..boiled wood is hot, use thick gloves.
Dan, I thought you were cooking stakes on the grill! I have all the parts for my steamer now. I will give it a shot at steaming the ash. Thanks Dan and Norman, nice to get the response and different options. I have not removed the broken front bow yet. Are the corner pieces seperat from the straight one originally? Three pieces?
Pieces in steamer. Here is my version of steamer.drain hole in bottom opposite the inlet.