I took my generator to a local auto electric shop for a rebuild about 3 months ago and as I was leaving I ask is it all adjusted and the response took me by surprise "it has a cutout and does not need adjusted" so I figured he has done everything and meant it was ready to bolt on. I don't think that was the case. I just got it on tonight and it is putting out 10 amps at idle and when revved up I am pegging the gauge. I took the cover off the back and it look like the third brush is on the bottom which makes me wonder if they even have the wiring correct to the brush holder. So the question is should I just try and adjust the third brush as it is or take the thing apart and see what they have done? I think I know the answer but would like to hear what you fold think. Maybe take it back to them but if they did it wrong the first time who is to say they will get it right the second time. I might have had it running for a minute or so no longer than that. It is just the chassis with no body on it or gas tank. Had to pour a little gas in the carb to start it and is still had some in it when I shut if off.
I'de give Ron Patterson a call. The generator, as you probably know, should be set near 8A at driving RPM. The small screws at the back of the generator can be loosened and the plate can be rotated without taking the generator apart but I don't have all the details.
that sets the "null" position of the brush assembly, and can affect the range of the amperage when the 3rd brush is adjusted. It sounds as if the 3rd brush is improperly adjusted and possibly the null position. Your best bet is to try to reset the 3rd brush to a lower amperage. If that cannot be done then the null position is off.
Simply adjusting the null without fully understanding what you're doing, or at least not following a specific procedure to accomplish this will lead to further trouble. If you do continue down this path, at least be sure to NOT remove the 4 screws at the end of the generator, but only loosen them. If you must adjust the brush assembly, please do a search for generator "null" adjustment and you will come up with a straightforward procedure that has been described a number of times in the forum
Full details how to do all this is in the MTFCA Electrical System booklet
I took it apart and turned the brush plate the way it should be and found neutral using a battery charger and moving the brush plate. Installed it and fired it up long enough to see it is still charging. I will need to wait until the weekend to possibly get it running to adjust. Should have the body back from the paint shop and start reassembling the rest of the car.
Do yourself a favor and get Fun Projects regulator for it. They work great. No worries about over charging, boiling batteries, turning the lights on to bleed off voltage, etc.
You discovered one of the pitfalls of the Model T world: finding local providers who understand 100 year old technology. You either have to use one of the nationally recognized guys or do your homework very well on the capabilities of your local shop. I drive 45 miles to deal with an old auto electrical place that understands these old beasts. They also do lots of service work on old tractors and stationary engines. Look around and you might find one in your area.