Has anyone had the pleasure of trying to replace the brake pads on Texas T parts hydraulic brake kit. The pistons in the caliper will not go back in, no mater how hard you push. I called Wilwood and was told that they do not have check valves in there calipers and they recommend that I open the top bleed fitting to push them back, sure sounds like a check valve to me.Also these pads don't have 5000 miles on them and they are worn out. Again, sounds like a check valve in there someplace. Cam anyone offer there experience, Brad.
They are 4 pot calipers, you need to push all 4 at the same time or it will extend the others. Can be very very frustrating. Much easier to just undo the bleeder vales.
Does the system have a residual valve in it? Make sure it is 2lb not 10lb. Valve will be close to the MC and should be marked. This could cause excessive wear If a too strong valve is used. There is no one way check in a breaking system other then possibly a residual valve. A one way check would cause constant braking.
Excessive wear and difficulty retracting the pistons could also be caused by a swollen brake hose. They will fail internally and act as a one way check valve keeping the brakes depressed. This can also happen if crud is in the system.
I would suggest blowing out the lines, taking the hoses off and check for flow.if bad replace the hoses with either SS or Hardline.
It helps to have the right tool for the job. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIS0/24300/N0675.oap?ck=Search_N0675_LI S_-1_-1&mn=Lisle&mc=LIS&pt=N0675&ppt=C0067 Fluid should return to the master cylinder when the pads are expanded.
I have disconnected the pressure line from the master cylinder and opened the bleeder fittings, the pistons will not go in. With the line connected and the bleeder fittings closed, the pistons hill move outward if the brake peddle is pushed, obviously you do not want to do this very often.
i only removed one pad at a time so only two pistons are free to travel, neither piston will move in. I put that pad back in and removed the other one and had the same problem, neither piston will move in, only out. Brad.
Also there is no residual pressure valve.
Maybe junk in the line somewhere. Thats probably why they wore out in 5000 miles. The trash is acting like a check valve. Do what Stephen said.
I'm liking my wood brake band more and more.
What kind of tools are you using to try and retract the caliper?
From your symptoms, if you are using the proper tools I would say you have a hose problem or crud in the lines. If you blow out the lines be very careful not to get that fluid on any painted surface.
Since I guess that I am the first to experience this problem, I will you what I found today, I removed both calipers and brought them to my work bench. The pistons are binding in the cylinders due to misalignment, Wilwood is working with me on this, they want to see these calipers I am going to ship them to them next week. Brad.
Brad, how far down were the pads worn? I've had worn pads that allowed the pistons to to extend so far that they would cock slightly and could not retract. I have two sets of Willwood disc brakes and would be interested in your findings.
Brad, thak you for having the persistence to follow this through.
So, is Willwood sending you new calipers to replace the ones they want to see?
The pads on one side were worn to less than a 1/16 inch, the opposite pad had about 1/8 inch of lining left and this in less than 5000 miles. This rapid wear cam only be explained by the pistons being cocked and jammed from day one. Once on the bench, I was able to free up one pair of pistons using two large C clamps. Wilwood is willing to rebuild my two calipers and return them to me, they are a good company and want to learn from this.
John Zibill, if you are still following this discussion, that tool that you referenced will not work on Wilwood calipers. Brad.
For those who may be still following this discussion, I will add the latest that I have learned. The rapid pad wear and caliper piston binding is apparently limited to the earlier disk brake system sold by Texas T Parts,these are the large diameter disks that are no longer available. Bill Devine of Birdhaven has told me that the later system with the smaller diameter disks has the pads and pistons centered on the disks so there is no unbalanced force, and uses the same caliper and pads as the original. I am in the process of converting mine over to the Birdhaven product, I should only have to replace the disks and the mounting brackets I will keep you updated. Brad.
Brad, Thanks for that information. There should be a tool from someone that can do the job.
Hal lo: This is Brad again, with an update on my Texas T parts hydraulic brake troubles.I have purchased the replacement parts needed from Birdhaven Antique Auto Parts and installed them. I just recently received my rebuilt brake calipers from Wilwood in California and installed them. My 1921 touring is back on the road again after being down for six weeks. The total cost came to about half of the cost of a complete hydraulic disk brake kit. Thank you Ben from Texas T parts, you knew that you had a flawed design and you kept marketing it even after you had the improved system available. My purchase was only two months before the improved system was made available. I hope you didn't spend all of my money in one place. Brad.
Nice of you to keep everyone updated on your findings. I wish more folks would do that sort of thing. I'm sure it will be of value to those who have the same brakes. Thank you.
Also, since you've publicly accused Ben of fraud, for your sake, I hope you have proof of your claim that he knew he was selling a flawed product. You may need it in court.