New Holly Carb

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: New Holly Carb
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Davis-Williams - Lake City, MI on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 10:25 am:

Good morning!

I'm curious if any of you have tried one of these New Holly Carbs from Snyder's.

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/holley-carb

Basically my carb is pretty gunked up and gas is pouring out the intake. Seriously, a steady stream. I ordered a couple of new gasket sets so I can tear it down and soak it or perhaps the float is flooded...who knows since I haven't torn it appart yet. If the float is good, but cleaning doesn't work, I'm considering one of these new carbs vs an original rebuild.

It's a lot more money, but less wait. I bought this car about six weeks ago, and it's been laid up for almost 4 weeks as I rebuilt the rear end. Now that Humpty Dumpty is nearly back together again (just need to mount the hubs a wheels) I'm getting impatient to drive the old gal.

Here's the rest of the story... She has a new engine and tranny, but the tank was full of rust. Apparently my flushing it out didn't get all the rust out and the fuel filter totally clogged while driving and it started to run like crap. So I'm assuming the carb is probably filthy... (I already replaced the plugs and wires following this incident).

Anyway, I've flushed the tank multiple times and took the inline filter off and put a sediment bulb on. It's a glass Massey Ferguson from Tractor Supply...but I wanted to see how much more crud was coming out before switching to an origanal bulb.

So, back to my post topic. Pending the carb cleaning doesn't work, what do you think of this new NH carb. I'm trying not to be so impatient that I spend all this extra cash....but summer can be very short. I've never rebuilt a carb before, just cleaned them. I don't really want to rebuild it myself...that's a whole new bag of worms.

Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 10:37 am:

I broke down and put a new one on my '12 while waiting for my 3-screw Holly to come back. It works great. It was a brand new one, not a rebuilt one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Davis-Williams - Lake City, MI on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 10:48 am:

Thanks Tim!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 11:14 am:

I think they have made improvements in them from when they were first introduced. The first ones the passage casting was very rough. I have not seen a newer one but have been told that the casting quality has been improved and the new ones are better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 12:21 pm:

Yes, that's a lot of dough for an ordinary NH! I'm surprised Snyder's doesn't even say what it is. I expect a good cleaning and replacing any parts that are obviously worn out will get you going. That was my experience when I acquired my touring. At that time I had never done anything with a Model T carburetor. This one had slept with the fishes. Gas ran out of rust holes in the bowl. It didn't take long to clean it and replace a few parts, and it sure didn't cost anywhere near $300.

I can't tell you to get a new tank, because they're not made for 26-27, but if it's really bad you may do better with a replacement. Either way, with the present tank or another one, you have to get it clean. Also ditch the filter. Even with a clean tank, an inline filter in a Model T is likely to give you trouble.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eckensviller - Thunder Bay, ON on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 01:33 pm:

I rebuilt my NH last year (first time restorer here) and it's design and operation are so simple that I can't imagine a lot of cases that would require more than a thorough cleaning. I bought a gasket set and I think a new float valve needle and that was it. Even the needle didn't need to be replaced but I had one so I went for it. Other than that it was just a thorough cleaning and filing the mixture needle to a point again.

As for the rusty tank, I had the same problem and flushed it just last week. What I did was drain all the gas and fill it with vinegar for a week. The idea was to let the mild acid loosen up the rust. After I drained it at the sediment bowl (I removed the valve body to let the rust soup flow freely) I jacked the rear of the car as high as it would go, threw a hose into the tank and just let it flush until the water coming out ran clear. Occasionally I would rock the car from side to side to stir up the bottom of the tank and the stream coming out would immediately darken. It took probably two hours of flushing until the samples I took from the stream were coming up clear.

When all of the dripping finally stopped, I pulled the sediment bulb plug (actually the plug and the filter screen) and pulled the carb drain plug. When all openings stopped dripping I reassembled the whole works, lowered the rear of the car, and filled it to the brim with fresh ethanol-free premium gas.

I can't guarantee it worked perfectly, but so far so good and it was an awful lot easier than having to remove it.


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