Antique Wheel Question

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Antique Wheel Question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie Dill in Stamford, CT on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 11:56 am:

Besides my "T", I have a '17 Buick. One of my wheels needs repairs (I'm going to send it to Stutzmans). I tried to get the wheel off and it won't come off. I limited my force so as not to damage anything before asking for help. Plus, cars on jacks scare me to some extent.

A few pics are attached below. I noted that there is slot in the hub and associated washer that I assume is meant for one of those semi-circular keys that I can't recall the name of. There was nothing there - should there be.

More importantly, does anyone know if there's a trick to get this wheel off. I suspect it will translate to my T Wheels when it's time to do some work on them. And is the screw on the side of the hub in the second picture likely to be involved?






Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie Dill in Stamford, CT on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 12:08 pm:

I figured out the name of the "semi-circular key" I was asking about. It's a Woodruff Key.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 12:27 pm:

Maybe the bearing is threaded on the axle light a Model T.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Doris, AZ on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 12:39 pm:

Charlie, Sounds like you need a hub puller. Check this out.http://customhubpullers.com.
Also, lots of help available for pre war Buicks on the AACA Buick Pre War forum here http://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 01:12 pm:

Charlie,

Ask here as well: http://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie Dill in Stamford, CT on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 01:22 pm:

Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 02:48 pm:

Ask Eric Barrett, he's into Buicks big time I assume to took a threaded nut off first? The Key" maybe a straight sided key that you have to pull straight out to "unlock" the bearing race.
And YES, be gentle, many Buick parts are now made of "unobtainium." You don't want to damage them!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 02:51 pm:

Boy oh boy, I can't type this morning--"I assume to took" should be, "I assume you took"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie Dill in Stamford, CT on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 03:13 pm:

The bottom photo is what I took off. It came off very easily, with almost too little force. The horseshoe shaped washer has a vertical piece that comes up at 90 degrees from the flat. It's also got a piece cut out that matches the groove on the hub for the pin. There was not a pin in there at all. I suspect it's something that should be there. Maybe this is part of the reason for the wheel needing repair. The original issue is that the spokes seem to have turned / torqued slightly on the hub. By slightly, it's easily noticeable.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 04:25 pm:

Charlie,

The "C" shaped washer thing is a nut retainer. Serves the same purpose as a lockwasher. Theoretically, there would be something to engage it at that inner notch. No matter, it's most likely a later add-on that someone thought was a good idea. If it were mine, I'd leave it off.

Your spokes skewed because the wheel was not assembled correctly the last time it was rebuilt. The hub bolts do not go through the spokes on the seams, as they should. As it is, the bolts come very close to the seams, but not enough to engage both adjacent spokes and lock them together, to prevent what eventually happened. When the bolt is at the seams, it acts like a key, that locks one spoke to the next, and prevents "skewing".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie Dill in Stamford, CT on Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 05:53 pm:

I noticed that the other rear wheel has a partial version of the bad one. As in - it's starting to skew. Do you think there's a solution that doesn't include sending the wheel (s) to a good wheelwright like Noah Stutzman?

I took the hub covers off the other 3 wheels. The other rear wheel is attached with the large nut like pictured. But the front wheels were attached with a much smaller castle nut and safety wired. Odd that the front and back would be different.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 - 10:49 am:

Charlie,

As for your wheels, I think the damage is done and new spokes are in order.

As to how the wheels mount, it might make sense that the front & rear would be different as there's a whole different thing going on with those front hubs, (bearings and all), than with the rears. And besides, the car is 100 years old. Lots of hands have been in there over those years!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Wednesday, May 31, 2017 - 12:54 pm:

The clocking of the spokes in the pictured wheel is so bad, it is noticeable once you mention it. And yes, it's likely caused by the bolts not being drilled at the right location. This is such a basic thing to wheel construction that it make me wonder about the fitment of the spokes. Not mentioned here is that the wheels are wood felloe wheels, so the fitting of the spokes and the felloes are critical--as is the species of wood used.
At first I thought we were looking at a front wheel, but now I notice the brake drum & band, so this is a rear wheel, and yes, you will need a wheel puller, OR you could put the nut back on, not tight and drive around the yard a little bit; this is often all it take to loosen the wheel hub from the axle.
I would contact Erik Barrett and ask his advice, Buicks are actually "down his alley." (so are black cats, but we won't go there!! :-) )
JOKE Erik, it's a JOKE I say!! :-)


Add a Message


This is a private posting area. Only registered users and moderators may post messages here.
Username:  
Password:

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration