I ordered all of the parts that I need from Langs to rebuild the coil box on my 27. I got the waterproof material. I've never rebuilt one before. The question I have is do I have to remove the coil box from the engine? I'm not looking for the easy way out but,I really don't want to disturb the head bolts.
There are rivets on the bottom of the box you need to access. You will replace them with pop rivets. It has to come off the engine.
I just removed the three head bolts, removed the coil box then re-tightened the head bolts was no big deal.
Just remove the three bolts in the head and reinstall and tighten until you put the box back on.
I have done​ these, I buy new brass bolts ( you can get them at a big box stores if you have to). You will have to sand or file the heads to look like a nail. Then clean up your original contacts, and rebend to the proper shape if needed. Solder the new bolts to the contacts then install when cooled.
Take time to fit the new plastic wood panels to the box. Some hammer and dolly work will probably be needed. You may have to soften the corners of the wood with a file, although John seems to prefer you don't ( I did to get the best fit).
The only other thing that got me, is you ( or someone you know) need a heavy duty pop rivet gun. You will probably break a standard one ( I broke two). I bought mine heavy duty one at harbor freight, it made it real easy.
Ok thanks for information. The box needs to come off. I just didn't want to disturb the head bolts unless I needed to.
I'll drain the radiator remove the head bolts. Then reinstall the head bolts. Rebuild the coil box then reinstall the box.
It shouldn't be a problem I just replaced the head gasket about a year ago.
John, I wouldn't think you would necessarily need to drain the rad. Least wise, I didn't find it so. With a cold engine and all of the head bolts as tight as they should be, just remove the necessary 3 and then replace and snug um down till your ready to go back. Any way that what I've done for 40 plus years and it's worked for me. But what do I know?
John, I did not have to drain the radiator to remove the coil box on my '27 either but I suppose it wouldn't hurt and might be a good excuse to replace the antifreeze if it has been in there for a long time as it looses its anti corrosive properties over time.
I just want to drain enough water to get it below the head. I have distilled water in it now with a rust inhibitor, and i want to take all of the precautions. Isn't it possible that water can leak into the cylinder then in to the oil ?
John, I too did not drain the coolant to replace mine. I did reinstall the bolts and snugged them back down until I was ready to reinstall the box.
It's your choice, I just feel it's unnecessary.
You can take all of the head bolts out at one time and not get any water into the cylinders. Just don't break the head loose from the block. It should have some type of sealer on it to begin with.
Taking a few head bolts here and there wont result in any leaks. At least I haven't experienced any.