I disassembled four TT differential cases I had earlier removed from the housings, looking for some good rear axle shafts. It seems many shafts have worn out hub keyways, worn or pitted bearing surfaces, while others have worn gear teeth. I found three, maybe four usable shafts, although I haven’t yet tried fitting a rear hub on them to see how far they will slide on. I can always fabricate a shim if needed, I suppose.

Among the differential cases were two that had the earlier two-gear spider. Not too unexpected since I have a few sets of the early raised bead rear axle housings amongst the TT stuff.


Rich C.

Rich,

I've had my TT rear end apart to change out an axle that was badly worn at the outer bearing. It's an early two gear rear end like the ones in your photo.

I've always wondered why they made the change from this style to the 4 gear spider. I've never heard of one failing. It seems contrary to Ford's philosophy of keeping costs to a minimum. Why improve it if it works as it is?

After spending a good part of the week getting the gap set on the flywheel magnets and field coil, decided to get going today and finish the motor assembly.



Had a set of little worn Guinn wood lined bands, so placed those on the drums.



Used the clip tool and then wrap with nylon tie strap to secure the band ears.





Then on with the hogshead!



varnish soaked felt has been my favorite way...



While the felt sets up tacky, do the nylon tie to the swinging clutch collar, such makes it easy to hit the rear groove plopping on the hogshead.






Bolts and goodies all lined up, and good 'ole dental floss on those nuts and washers, and springs!




Drop on the hogshead, remove the tie strap on the clutch collar, and push and pry the band ears behind the low pedal boss. Slide in the pedals, and add springs, and washers and nuts.





Once the ears are secure with washer and nut, then pull away the nylon tie wrap around the bands, now the hogshead can seat all the way down, and you begin the bolting up to the crankcase. But.......put that inspection cover on first!



Once got in a hurry and was handling multiple bolts and nuts, and dropped one down there...oh the abyss is such a bad place after you have the crankcase on!



Now on with the head!



Coat the head gasket, anti-seize the head bolts, and place them, but before wrench work, crank over the engine to be sure nothing is amiss.



Lifted the finished engine off the engine stand, and with the cherry picker, placed on the roll around cart, ready for install in the T.

Chassis is complete. Got the car body painted and mounted to the frame.











Should have the rest of the parts painted this weekend.

Installed modern seal in timer to keep oil out of the new day timer. Installed new bushings for fan.

In went the engine in the '24 this morning.

Few quick photos of one man process, (ah...have to admit needed the wife to push on the cherry picker to move the engine back to engage the U-joint)



Prep work, adjust torque tube to proper attitude, grease frame rails (lets the crankcase arms glide, and grease that important "1st main".







Tilt engine for pedals to clear firewall, and slip it back in the frame, the under to align the U joint and it's a wrap.

I had to come home on the trailer of shame today! When I shifted from under to direct drive with the Warford I heard a loud thump-thump coming from the engine. I may have been running at too high an RPM for the shift but in the line of cars on a hill behind me I needed to shift where the road level out to keep up with the cars ahead.
I thought it was a spun rod but no! I just pulled the inspection plate there was a pile of babbitt in #3 dipper, pulled that rod cap which is fine. I can see the shards hanging from the center main without pulling it. Also when it went, took out a couple of teeth on the modern nylon timing gear. Guess it's well past time for new babbitt in the mains. The caps were new re-babbitted but the block babbitt was original and I have put a lot of miles on that babbitt. If the crank is not too sprung or cracked at least the mains will have lots of meat to work with. At least i was able to drive the can on and off the trailer.

Had to repair one of my headlight bezel, the glass was moving around, so I took it off and found that 6 of the 8 little tabs that held the glass to the bezel were gone...ok. I cut some engravers brass (something I've always got around), chewed the plastic coating off of it with the wire wheel to get to the bare brass and cut it into strips



and tinned them.

Soldered them into the bezel beside or on top of the old ones that were once there.



Of course the heat from soldering burned my paint so I have to wire wheel that off and get it ready to repaint it.





Next I turned my attention to my doors and finished the last rear door panel.



This Monday I'm going to trade in this rascle for a new one...turns out this is the source of my ignition problems. The new one is gonna cost $69.99 with core...which is a hell of a lot better than all the auto parts houses were quoting me.

While at lang's today picked up a period correct front end for the Coupelet. I also picked up from one of the other participants a May 22,1918 engine for the Coupelet

heard it was going to rain at the memorial day parade, so my son and I built a cab for the war wagon. of canvas top

Pulled some rims out of the molasses tank


Before


After

Not one of my better moments with Carl my 11 touring but it was a learning experience. Thankfully my old car insurance has free towing.

I had a small thumbnail size triangle shaped chunk missing out of the metal fellow on my 21" demountable. Cleaned up the rust, and welded in a patch piece. Now I can finish sanding the spokes and refinish this pair of wheels.

Philip, are you sure you're not so fed up and frustrated with that old car that you're ready to get it off your hands????

I took the T to its first car show. It was a couple miles up the road, so a perfect drive on a nice (though hot) day. Had some great conversations with folks and was by far the oldest car there.

Zachary, do they have a class for school buses? HEHEHE! glad to see people being exposed to the T. Thanks for the pic.
Drive safe and often

Actually my "incident" happened Memorial Day. I was too ashamed to post it at the time. I was less then a mile from home, turned out to be a timer issue and has been resolved.

Not ready to sell him yet Bill.

I played around with some of my dash plans on a cheap piece of plywood. Any advice anyone has or suggestions are welcome as im in the trial stage.

Those are some great things to choose from Chadwick.

One of the big events at our house is opening a new quart of enamel. Like many of you I buy a Gallon and transfer it to quarts, then to Pints and half pints. Dulux and now tractor enamel will last for years that way. The cans can be used over and over. Putting your own label on adds to the festivity of it.

Here is my fresh quart and my favorite brush. It is a disposable brush but has survived a couple dozen Por15 jobs and even more using Enamel.






(Message edited by rich eagle on June 05, 2017)

(Message edited by rich eagle on June 05, 2017)

I'm getting ready for Montana. Dropped the pan on the 23 this afternoon. Haven't checked the bearings in about 8 years since about 1000 miles on it. Now have a few more thousand miles and #1 and #2 are still at 0.002 checked with plastigauge. Pulled one shim on #1 (newsprint test said "loose") and it was too tight so replaced it. Didn't check the mains or #'s 3 or 4 as they're closer to the main oil reservoir. I plan on checking the valves this weekend.

I finally got my TT running. It is not like it took very long, but getting the time to do it was the problem. But, cancer treatments are over, I'm getting my strength back, and I'm on summer break. It was a great day

Buddy helped me with my front spring. Front spring eyelets were not very round anymore. Chucked them up on a mill and cleaned/trued them up.
Then made new bushings to fit my front leaf spring. We noticed that the shackle had some imperfections. We ended up collaring the bushing to fit.
Also made a little driver for pressing the bushings into the spring.

Nothing good. While unloading my newly acquired '62 Lincoln Convertible it got away from me. Fortunately the '26 Touring was there to serve as a backstop, thus preventing damage to the garage.

Chris, those aftermarket shackles with the knurling at the joints have a bad reputation:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/401615.html?1384559326

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/729658.html?1488234082

Eric: OUCH...Whimper

Mark beat me to it. I was going to say those look like the infamous fall-apart shackles.

I took the T for it's first totally legal ride since we moved to Florida. I busted my leg in November, and by the time that I was OK to drive, the Mass registration had expired. I had to go through the lengthy process of finding a year of manufacture license plate (easy in Massachusetts, difficult for Florida), getting it restored, then "authenticated" by the authorities in Tallahassee. I finally have the plate and the registration, so took the T and a friend for about a six-mile hop between thunderstorms. The old girl ran well.

Last night I installed a Winfield 4H on a high-flow aluminum intake.

I'm hoping it's not too big of carburetor for the engine, (balanced, Z-head, 290 cam) we'll see how it runs after I change oil and add gas tonight.

Thanks guys for the insight

Began bolting speedster together. With light coaxing these parts are together for the first time since they were in service.

FWIW in the shackle discussion: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/401615.html?1384559326
I have put off replacing the other 3 shackles. They are working fine.
Yes there is a problem but some may work better than others.
Rich

Began the long road back to final assembly. All major body work/hammer dolly has been completed. Front fenders had to be straightened. Going old school on most of this work. Brazed up cracks in hood and radiator shell (MIG welder is sitting this one out) Found someone who knows what they are doing when it comes to media blasting - definitely know how to do the job right! Next is DTM primer (would have tried Rust Bullet?, but already had DTM on shelf).

Helped a friend take apart his rear end to check the thrust washers. One Babbitt one was just fine; the other was a pile of slush in the bottom of the differential case. New parts will be ordered tomorrow. Maybe another life and a T saved just in time.

I took the time to adjust the throttle arm on my Stromberg LF to match the throttle linkage. I put it on and have been driving with idle up and over the quadrant and 20 mph just below the stop at the top. Was kind of like shifting a column shift raising the handle up and over to go from slow to fast.

I called Eyes on Design. They want the car damaged or not. In light of some of the OCF experiences described here this was a refreshing change. The Eyes on Design people have been a delight to work with.

Well, this'll sound boring compared to the real work everybody else is doing, but okay... I decided to declare war on manual elbow-grease brass-polishing, took all the brass off my '15 Touring that would unbolt and unscrew—side-view mirrors, oil-lamp tops, motometer & winged radiator cap, etc.—and used a bench grinder with a fluffy polishing wheel and some Prism Polish.

-

Man, that made short work of the job. -Still gotta do the radiator , but for that stuff, I bought a cheapie ($16) orbital palm-polisher from Harbor Freight and we'll see how it works out. -It's starting to look like this all-day job may become an hour-and-a-half job. -Why the heck did I wait this long to use some power-tools?

Question: _What would be the best thing to use to replace whatever pin-type thingy holds the brass bezel-ring hinges on my oil-lamps together? -I'd like to be able to remove the rings for polishing on the wheel, too.

I took the T for a ride around the neighborhood yesterday. Came across this cool old bridge I had forgotten about. I couldn't get great pictures of T on it because the road is too narrow to get far enough away; next time I'll wear long pants and step into the woods to get enough distance to get a good shot.

In the meantime, I got this one which I think is pretty cool. Most of the roads around the house look like this... perfect for Ts

Bob, my black era kerosene tail light has a properly sized cotter pin inserted and split for a hinge on the bezel ring.

Myself, I'm trying to match a set of four equal weight connecting rods out of ten - harder than I thought when the light and heavy ends also should match and grinding within safe limits doesn't take off much weight..

Roger,
The cotter-pin worked perfectly as a hinge-pin. -Thanks.

A minor task, but I removed the modern nylon insert lock nuts on my parking brake cross-shaft supports and installed the correct castle nuts and cotter pins.

Saved my spare tire. I was showing off the car when I noticed the spare looked like it was turned. I went up to straighten it out and realized the mount bracket was loose. Both bolts were gone on the left and only one left on the right. 3 new bolts and she was all secure for the trip home.

I finished making the hood shelves for the '14. A search of the Forum provided the details and dimensions I needed.
Thanks Forum members.
Rich

Coming back the other way from the Lincoln's assault upon my T.er

Good Job....I like the color on your wire wheels ..By chance do you know the name of producer and the color name ...Or number....I have a set of wires for my 26 Touring...

I put a better crank pulley on my runabout. The one that was on there was loose and rattled. It also had suffered some unfortunate customization. The small hole had been drilled out to match the big hole, and the crank pin had cotters at both ends. The replacement I used is stock, but was also a bit loose. A little shim of .008" steel fixed that.

Looking good Eric. I was bummed to see your incident. Is the Lincoln ok?

Started the disassembly of my enclosed TT cab.

I'm repairing the fender for Eric. My goal was to get it down to using less than a 3/16 of filler. I will repair the bottom as good as the top. That is the kind of finish that is on the entire car. My goal is have it back in Eric's hands by Monday afternoon. He was really bummed but it could have been a lot worse.

Mark is being too modest. What he is doing here is nothing short of the work of a magician/artist...and psychotherapist all mixed into one. His work and friendship have saved me from a bout of true insanity.

Less than a cup of total filler for both sides. I'm happy with that, primer and paint tomorrow. Eric and I go way back as friends like 30 years or so. Our dads raised us in the hobby and we would walk around car shows together and dream about our future collections. It's funny how life turns out sometimes.

Brothers from different mothers we've said more than once.

Learned about wheel bearings and proper grease packing while identifying a bent felloe band, which lead to a replacement wheel and bearing installation. New headlamp reflectors look great, too. New hubcaps with grease installed yesterday. Progress is slow and incremental. On to cleaning/replacing the carb this weekend. Working on my goal to get the 1920 T on road by 9/1.

Answering questions from a couple other posts, Zach asked if there was damage to the Lincoln. There was, but it was limited to one small piece of trim, which will cost perhaps $50.

Another question was specific to the wheel color. That is what Ford called Emerald Green. It is the same color as the later Apple Green that Ford used on the wheels and stripes through about 1936. What is on my car is tinted DuPont Centari though Mark tells me our local body shop supplier can no longer supply tinted Centari. I'm not sure if that's true everywhere or just in Battle Creek. If you need a sample on a stick I can certainly provide one. The black with green is a striking but I find rather polarizing color scheme. People tend to either love or hate it.

Thanks Eric on the reply on the wheel color...I'll run with that info ...The car actually has 30x3 1/2s (26)but it came with a full set of wires and hubs .. I really like the green on your car..

Took a 94 year old gentleman for a ride in my '24. Then surprised him when I stopped and said "you drive". He slid over and away we went. He said he hadn't driven one since the speedster he owned in high school (payed $10 for it). Thought he'd never have the chance to drive one again. He was so grateful. I had a blast.

Nothing on the T directly... but getting the boat-come-T trailer ready to pick up a rebuilt engine. So far, added a mid-deck, replaced lights and wiring, repairs broken fender support, etc. Need to get it weighed, so it can be licenced, now. The rails to roll the T up on, will come after another couple hundred dollars is scrounged for the steel!



Before...




After

Not work on the T, but something I thought was interesting. I was working today doing a parts inventory at a local Ford dealer. We were checking variances and I was near the spark plug shelf. Low and behold I see some Motorcraft F11 (SP-465) Spark plugs on the shelf. I was kind of amazed these were there. Maybe these get a little demand for them every now and again, usually if a part doesn't typically sell, it gets sent back on a factory parts return, or gets scrapped.

first attempt to att ach a canvas roof to the war wagon didn't hold up to trailered highway speeds, so we installed another one military style

off to car show this morning son is in post wwI uniform

Robert,
It might be helpful to back the car onto the trailer.
Norm

With the engine and rear end rebuild over the winter done and now installed,
the past month has been spent working the bugs out of the new system. It
has been an exercise in relearning to drive the old beast, ... so much is different.

Getting to trust it now, I took it for a long evening drive this last week. Got a
little hot on some of the longer, steep hills, but overall, no issues.

Went back out again today to participate as a walker with the Vets on the Farm
crew at the Fairfield town festival parade. Fairfield is out in God's country and
the drive was wonderful. Probably got 100 miles in. No overheating, just easy
running.


Stopped to do a systems check and saw a nice photo op.



This area is perfect for Model T driving. Point the truck any direction and I can
drive for 100's of miles of this.

.

Burger, looks like great roads. Glad to hear its back on the road.100 is a good run. Only got about 60 on mine today drove it to all the graduation parties and took the wife person to dinner. Came home last night about 10:30 with a full moon and 70 degrees!!! What a relaxing drive.
Drive safe and often

Oh ya!!! Went to a car show this morning and parked next to a very large military truck and a " 23 T" well sort of . Well NOT!!! Fiberglass with small block. He knew what he had tho. I said nice car and he said thanks but yours is real.

Ugghh, more sanding of spokes tonight. What a tedious job. Hope to finish after work tomorrow, then start refinishing hopefully Monday.

Burger, WOW. Amazing photos and that had to be a great run with that scenery.

Painted Eric's fender this afternoon it turned out good. He will be all done and back together for next weekends Eyes on Design Classic car show with time to spare for a major clean up. Good luck next weekend. All is right in my World again when you spend enough time working on a car it's hard to see it damaged. I feel that way about most of the cars that I have had a part in restoring.

And it shows. I'm having trouble posting a photo but trust me, it's an improvement !

Today's aggravation was trying to get the hood rods out of a '15 hood. It will be temporary on my '14. I know that aluminum doesn't rust but the steel rods did. Soaking them with WD40 helped some but it was a struggle to get them out. Working them back and forth and twisting them a little at a time seemed to work. The rods had several bends in them. Probably from people sitting on the hood or some other mis-use. Pounding on Model T parts is good therapy but I try to do it with care. I suppose someone will reveal a secret way to do this using plastic bags or Vicks® VapoRub , but this is what I did.
I have purposely stayed away from aluminum but this should straighten up enough for this less than perfect '14. This was another discarded part that may have never seen use again.

During pentecost, where I participated in the TimeWinder Nostalgia Festival (www.timewinder.dk) my starter stopped working. It was turning but not engaging to the flywheel. Broken bendix spring I assumed.
Today I opened the cover and shure the spring was broken alright :-)
I replaced it with a new spring as well as new securitywashers as well.

At assemply I straightened the covers surface towards the gasket and applied some locktite when mounting the cover and fixed an oilleak at the same operation (or at least so I hope - further testdrives necessary but it looks promising)

I spent the weekend installing a new top and side curtains on my MT500 car.

This evening after dinner I used the runabout for a bit of dog training. My first attempt to take Shorty for a ride did not go well at all. I had her on too long a leash, which allowed her to jump out and end up hanging by her neck on the side of the car. Somehow she injured a foot and for a couple of weeks went about on three legs. That was a couple of months ago, so tonight I decided to try it again, this time with a shorter leash.


I needn't have worried about the leash. I guess she remembered what happened before, and this time made no move to jump out. In fact, for the first two or three miles she kept her face buried in the seat.


We went about fifteen miles, and by the end she had loosened up enough to look out and watch the scenery roll by.

(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on June 11, 2017)

Looks like a great co pilot Steve!!!

Did an approximately 110 mile loop in the beautiful country surrounding Hollister California for the 48th annual Santa Clara endurance run. Had a great time!

There were a few miles of really nice dirt roads, a few miles of really bad paved roads, and the rest were great "T" roads. All the cars finished the rally without the help of the trouble trucks.

Thanks to all those who put efforts into planning the run, I'll be back next year!

We took the carb apart, cleaned thoroughly, reassembled, and put back on the TT. Starts right up now on the first couple of cranks. SWEET!

Got my 27 Tudor motor rebuild done and the car back on the road this morning.

Steve, what breed dog? Looks like our McNabs.

As my cab is officially in two pieces, started fixing the bent stuff. Then performed a quick mock up.

Commenced the body change over on the runabout. Will clean up the frame and paint it while the body is off. Hope next week to put the replacement runabout body on.

Fedex delivered the one new Universal T-driver tire that I ordered I and mounted it today on a refurbished Hayes rim that I bought last year at Homecoming. The tire had been sitting in the delivery truck all day before I got it, so it was plenty warm and went on fairly easily (compared my other tire mounting experiences).

I used a pair of the "rim saver" rings to repair the edges of this rim, then painted the rim black to match the other rims on Betsy (came that way from the previous owner).

Pat, I believe the breed is called Heinz (57 varieties). Some of the ingredients that have been suggested are lab, pit bull, and blue heeler. I suspect all of those and several others may apply.

Mark, where do you get those rings?

I got the rings through Andrew Brand in Australia. He doesn't make the rings, but he knows the person who does (a gentleman named Dean). Andrew agreed to buy ten rings from the Dean and ship them to me. I chose to tack weld the rings to the rim, but Andrew told me that the Aussies glue them on using auto body panel two-part epoxy. They drive wedged blocks between the rings all the way around the rim to hold the rings in place while the epoxy cures.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/648675.html?1465514647


I used two rings, then gave the remaining eight to the MTFCA museum. Jerry Kramer used two of the museum's rings to repair a rim on his Model N, then gave four rings to Donnie Brown. If I counted right, that means that the museum still has two rings (enough to do both sides of one rim).

You could try PM'ing Andrew Brand to see if he's willing to ship over another batch of rings from down under.

I worked on nine different Model T's today.

Purist be damn, (even though I have seen parts listings for natural spoke wheels), I continued on with my wheel redo.

Yesterday I finished sanding, cleaned everything up and stained the spokes for that aged look. Today my intention was to clear the spokes, what I didn't count on was masking for three hours. Found a good way to mask though.

First I used a round object about the size of the spoke and traced it out.




Then I cut out the tape---notice I went more than half way around the circle. This is so the tape on each side over lapped.






After all of the crazy masking, I found I was out of small brushes that I use for the clear. Oh well, just have to wait another day.

The past couple days I've been sorting out the tail end of my cut off touring. I took a bunch of steel angle and made up a set of tailgate hinges to replace the bulky gate hinges I had bought as well as making up a bar to mount the tail lights and license plate. The tail lights themselves are Model A repops from brand M with 6v bulbs installed.

Hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday I'll get it all wired up and operating.

And no, the license plate sadly isn't real. Just a hunk of a pizza box for mock up. I want to get YOM plates but those are three hundred bucks and change by the time they're installed so they can wait.

I blasted and painted a pan...





... and took Shorty for another after-dinner drive: https://youtu.be/0UKfJBVmnkM

Steve, I assume that pan was checked and straightened on Mike's table before all of the blasting and painting?

Yes, it was.

I knew it, good job! Will the touring be back on the road before the end of this year's driving season?

Sure hope so. With Mike being busy and me being busy, this project has really dragged on.

Well I'm continuing preparations for the Whitefish tour in Montana in July. Last night I fired up Carl and drove to my men's group for church, ran great. Still have to address some minor issue before we head out to Montana.

Today the weather was perfect to scrape old grease, paint and rust off the frame in preparation for the body change over. Gave the frame some primer and paint let dry. Two of the neighbors stopped by and to finish a good t work day we mounted the other body. Nothing like being ahead of schedule.

I put another air cleaner on the touring, this time with an Stromberg OF and high volume intake manifold to go with the dual exhaust.
I used 1 1/2 plumbing, 2 pieces, and opened them up with a large socket and some heat, then got it fitted over the carb flange. I had to cut a notch to clear part of the carb opening. I cut one end off and fitted it to an identical one after enlarging one to fit over the other. Since it wouldn't take solder, I used small steel pop rivets. I also riveted a tab down by the carb to hold it but later found I didn't need that. Another tab was added to attach to a manifold stud. I cut notches in the carb end to allow me to tighten it onto the carb with a ring hose clamp. A filter with a 1 1/2 opening from the local Runnings completed the project.

Been driving the wheels off the truck. Got most of the bugs worked
out from the rebuild. Using it as my regular work truck all week. It is
such fun to see so many people pointing and smiling. A 15-year-old
kid approached and asked a lot of questions as I loaded lumber, saying
he wanted to learn more and get one for himself. Another TT fan. I
gave him my card and told him to link up with me on a weekend and
we could go for a run. That's right, poisoning the minds of youth any
chance I get.

Today I took mine out for a test drive after running new a fuel line and working out some other bugs. When I was stopped by a neighbor who I found out is a retired Ford employee and after talking for a bit I offered to take him for a ride and took this pic of him after.

Finished the nine Model T's and found another three.

Pulled the manifold and replaced the ring sets. All except the rear port sealed well. Also, retro-fit a piece of flexible exhaust tubing to replace the Swiss cheese piece that fell off. Eventually, will order the correct replacement exhaust parts.

I cleaned and polished my car. It's loaded in the trailer and will be heading out at about 4:30AM for the Eyes on Design Concours in Grosse Pointe, MI. A special thanks to Mark Eyre for helping make this possible.

I took the speedster for a nice ride. For those familiar with San Jose, CA, i took Hicks Road from Camden over to Old Almaden. That's a pretty good pull uphill. No traffic, no bicycles. Just clean air and nice country side. Perfect for an evening speedster ride.

Today I just about finished mounting the new Sure-Stop disc brakes. It was a fairly easy installation. It's been a busy few days getting the rear end back together, painting it, getting the brakes installed, rebuilding my coils, etc...

Hoping to fill the brakes with fluid in the morning, bleed them, then take the car for a drive and test it all out.

After clearing my spokes earlier in the week, yesterday I finished up my two rear wheels I have been working on. They came out pretty good I think.

Reverse masking the spokes this time:





A little paint--ok, alot of paint. (took one can of Rustoleum for both wheels, I could have used a smidge more, should have bought that second can).





Finished product:

Liz being useful. Went to the farm store to gas up, filled a jerry can for the equipment and loaded a bag of sweet feed. Definitely noticed a "port list" on the trip home, bucking a 20mph headwind, Liz was working a bit hard, but up to the task.

I had to put in a new tube in my right rear tire and then went for a quick ride.

I just went to three tire shops to look for stems to vulcanize on tubes. But all three said : No sir not for sale.
Toon

Bicycle speedometer installation complete. Extending the sensor wire was tricky. The wire nearest the sensor was enclosed with tubing to minimize vulnerability as per Steve Jelf. This was then was sealed with shrink tubing. The sensor mount was whittled from a block of aluminum and clamped to the left spindle arm. Will see how the wire holds up.

My father and I visited Mike Francis at Classtique in Lino Lakes to purchase some wool carpet.

The UPS man had just arrived when we got there and Mike was sending off a number of things, including an early roadster seat and mother-in-law seat that he upholstered for Dennis Michaud out east (each in its own large wooden crate).

Mike Francis - Classtique:


Roadster seat in crate:

Bump to get rid of the spam

I replaced a broken front bow.
I also used Patrick Martin's method for the corners.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/171530.html

I started yesterday on a rear end rebuild. Even though there was no end play to speak of in the axles, I had ordered bronze thrust washers and seals anyways so I may as well use them. When I pulled the axle tube I peeked inside and, well, looks like I can save the step of removing the old washers - the passenger side one at least is gone!

I drove it.


The Friday/Saturday family reunion at the farm featured water balloons, ice cream making, and lots of runabout rides.

Thats what its about Steve! I put 80 miles in the 26 RPU yesterday. Taught my cousin how to drive it also.

Assembled a FunProjects coilbox wood replacement insert for a 1915, 1916 and early 1917 coilbox I am restoring.

Attended the annual Strathearn museum historic day in Simi Valley CA with a couple of other Ventura model t members and the Ventura model A club.

Took the wife person and her retired arson dog for icecream. Cynder is the her name. 13.5 years old makes her older than the T in dog years. Yes my wife got 2 spoons so she could share with Cynder!

I did bunch of small things to my 11 on Sunday. I installed top prop nut lock washers, greased the universal joint and the drive shaft, oiled the king pins and tie rod ends also gave the rear axle bearings a shot of grease and topping off the differential with some 600W. Checked the engine oil added some antifreeze and then drove about 30 miles to North Bend, Ne to the Old Settlers picnic. We are always the oldest vehicle there at the parade. Talked with a bunch of people about the model T and how it works etc and I could see a lot of strange looks like they really didn't believe me about how the spark and transmission work. Three pedals was also a strange concept to a lot of folks.

I used a spring compressing tool to install my hood hooks. I made the tool in 1985. It is a bit flimsy but works. A trick job with two hands but the tool makes the job a little easier.

Had to put my new fan blade on. Old one had a crack and one of the blades decided it didnt like the rest of the car. It promptly and destructively left the engine bay. Sliced a hole in the hood and blew a whole bunch of paint off. The engine shut down at the same time and the bang was so loud I thought I broke the crank.

What a great, informative thread.

Thank you for taking the time and effort to post it.

The snow is gone and the mud is drying just in time for the 4th of July. So it's time to got the touring car oiled, greased, polished, and out for a quick drive.
Happy touring

Washed it up for the July 4 parade. Last Saturday we had the horseless rodeo so the under side of the fenders had mud on them. But it's all cleaned up now.
Norm

Went to a buddy's house last night and used his table saw to cut the boards for the '26 pickup bed floor.

Itching to see the end result Steve!

Adjusted the foot brake for a little more pedal, and took Shorty for another ride.

https://youtu.be/cdqWNgZt558

Steve, seems Shorty has the same expression on his face that most of my friends have when i take them for a ride. Is that a Mag bulb you have hanging over the choke?

Yep, magneto battery charger. I've never had to use a separate charger on the battery.