My engine will idle quietly and run smoothly at low RPM but as soon as I rev it higher it starts to hitch, and on the road it hitches madly at cruising speed. Any and all suggestions will be investigated. Cheers, John in Nova Scotia
Excuse my ignorance,but what is hitching?
It is either insufficient fuel flow or an ignition problem. Check the fuel flow at the carburetor first as that is pretty easy to check. Then we can go from there once you post your findings.
I don't disagree with John, but my first suspicion is the timer
My first suspicion is 6V ignition vs Mag. Coils like more than 6V unless they are perfect. (I guess I never had perfect coils because my T's have NEVER worked good on 6V.)
Let us know what U find, OK?
If it's a Ford style roller timer, it wears the contact surface uneven so the roller bounces and misses at higher rpms.
Many times the timer can be ground on a lathe to an even surface again. With a lot of lubrication and periodical cleaning they'll hold up longer.
Its a new ANCO style from Hutch in Wa state and a new fuel line with a ball valve shut off.
Just because the fuel line is new doesn't mean you have good flow. When you refer to "ball valve shut off" are you referring to the sediment bowl and valve? Is the tank clean and the screen isn't clogged?
In troubleshooting I like to take things one stem at a time and not shotgun the issue. Fuel flow is easy to establish and verify. Once you take one possibility out, you can then focus on other issues such as timer and coils which can be more difficult to diagnose. That is how I wrote troubleshooting procedures in technical manuals.
So if it isn't fuel or timer, how good are the contacts in the coil box? Clean the contacts on each coil (3 each on all 4 coils) and make sure the coil box spring contacts make good contact to the coils.
I fully endorse the "methodical " approach suggested.
To expand on varifying fuel flow;
Put a catch pan under the carb and with the fuel turned on, open the drain. See how well it continues to flow (not just what is in the carb.
Tell us more about your car. What year and type is it? You show a centerdoor in your profile. Is it that car? Also are you having trouble on level ground or on hills?
Do you have a fuel filter other than the sediment bulb? Do you have a fuel pump? What about the carburetor? Has it been rebuilt? Do you have the needle and seat or a grose valve?
What about the gas tank? Has it been cleaned or replaced? Many times rust and dirt get inside the gas tank and small particles partially clog the sediment bulb, line, or carburetor. The engine will idle smoothly, but is starved for fuel at higher speeds. A grose valve will also cause some problems Too low float level in carburetor will cause similar problems.
Was the car running well and then it started to "hitch"? Did you do any work on the car just prior to having this problem
Are you running on magneto or battery?
Anyway, we need to know as much as you can tell us about your car before being able to diagnose the problem.
Good points all. Norman this is my cute little 1914ish 'mongrel' I believe the engine is a 1921. The body is the result of a sheet of birch plywood, some metal and vynal leatherette I have had a lot of issues getting this one going. Just a few issues left and it will be fun . Answers -Level ground hitching, No extra fuel filter, No fuel pump,Carb rebuilt, needle and seat, Gas tank clean, Will check bulb and line, Other issues such as seized springs etc. over shadowed the hitch, Will run equally well or poorly on mag or bat Photo may follow
In addition I also rebuilt the 2 springs, perches, bushings front end king pins etc. rear end shims , and bushings, 4 new tires and one new wheel . Now I can feel the engine's lack of smoothness. Will check fuel line Monday. ( family stuff tomorrow), Then the timer , Cheers, John
One easy way to find out if your problem is if you have another T which runs well, to swap the carburetor and find out if this one runs better with the other carburetor and if the other one runs poorly with this carburetor. If it makes no difference, you can rule out the carburetor, but if the problem goes with the carburetor, you have a carburetor problem.
Same goes for the coils. Usually ignition problems are worse at idle than at high speed, however, sometimes a weak spark will idle OK but under power it causes a misfire. The spark takes the path of least resistance, so if you have a bad coil or if the coil box has a carbon track, it might spark at the plug at idle, but since it takes a hotter spark to run at higher compression and the compression raises with an open throttle, your spark could jump somewhere else. Sometimes you can see where the spark is jumping if you run the car in the dark with the hood up. You shouldn't see sparks in the dark except at the coil points and if the lid is on the coil box, you won't see those. Anyway, I am sure that you will find the problem. It is usually caused by the last thing you check!
Jack, I do not see where anyone has answered your "what is hitching" question. It is an older term that can be used to describe the engine missing, stuttering, hesitating, or just not running right. It is one of those terms that show just how old some of us really are .....
Bet its the coils. They are the most common issue in my chapter and I didn't read them in your list of things you rebuilt. You will need to have your coils adjusted by someone with the proper kind of coil tester. A properly setup set of coils and a decent timer will make your T run like it has a super charger.
I always considered the term "Hitching" to mean bucking, and or jerking. Not sure if it is the same in the Canadian lexicon.
I must be older than I think. I knew what was meant by "hitching".
I also remember an old expression for a person with a limp as "a hitch in his git-along".
John E, That T looks like a great fun car! Good luck getting it sorted out.
Any chance it could be as simple as carburetor adjustment? Too lean a fuel mixture can idle well, but hitch at higher speeds or load. Coil adjustment or timer are also probable.
John Regan - the coils came from Langs,and the timer is a new ANCO style. I think John Zibell may be correct - the fuel flow may be too weak. Bucking and jerking is what it does. I'll check all of your ideas and I'm sure it can run smoothly for Important Drives and Tours coming up real soon.
Fuel flow seems strong to carb. Carb does have a ball instead of a float needle . Going out to change that now for a reg seat and needle float valve. Cheers, John
Take the ball needle valve out and toss it. We have taken it out of two other (at least) in NS. Once a bit of dirt or varnish gets in there you cannot get it out again and it either gets stuck open (flooding) or shut.
At least with the needle valve you can take it out, clean it and put it back in.
Finally got a chance last night to make the test drive. After checking out all of your ideas the final thing that I discovered was a ball style float valve Didn't remember putting that in. It was the culprit ,so I changed it out for a standard float valve that I found in the bottom of a box of old parts. Success! The car ran very nicely. Thanks to all here who helped with suggestions. Happy motoring! John
I love happy endings! Thanks for the follow-up.
Yes. Thank you for the update.