I'm having an issue on my 26. I'm equipping it with an E Timer due to it not having any magnets on the flywheel. After 2 hours of messing with the timer rod bends and building the wear spots up with weld, I finally got the .90+ inches of rotation on the timer that is required for "automatic" operation and the 15 * after TDC retarded. Now, of course, the control rod bears hard into the fan belt at full advance. I do have the fan cam set to the correct side for maximum clearance. It would seem so sensible to offset these timer ears just a little bit to alleviate this issue, but I wouldn't dare put a welder to an E Timer, given the electronics inside of it. Is a smaller crank pulley an option?
Here's a 2012 thread about a similar problem with an Anderson timer: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/281744.html?1335555624
"Hutch" who makes the Anderson helped with the issue, and Mike Kossor may help here?
Pictures would certainly help us all giving suggestions.
Might help with a different length fan belt - or no belt at all, if you don't do parades and haven't got many traffic stops.. as soon as it's above 5 mph, no fan is needed.
I like the idea of a different Belt. I'll try a shorter one. Running no fan around here doesn't work, except in the winter time... I've tried it. I did reach out to Mike Kosser last night.
Dave, Have you followed the E-Timer installation instructions exactly; applying masking tape to the front pulley and timer case, marking the travel on the tape against fixed references on the engine, removing the tape and measuring the rotational travel using a caliper? Folks who have previously reported sluggish engine performance or belt interference either had marking or measurement accuracy issues or attempted to "eye-ball" the measurements; You can't. Small errors in the measurements have a big impact on performance. Especially the timer housing due to the 2:1 CAM to Crank gear ratio. Measurement error is amplified by a factor of 2 on performance.
Having 0.94" of rotation travel is great but I recommend you double check the initial fully retarded timing setting such that it is not in excess of at 15 degrees After TDC. I have a 1927 Touring and the timer does not interfere with the belt when advanced to the optimal operation position, which is slightly before full advance.
Regarding timing lever slop, the connecting rod is one source of slop but in my experience the lever at the end of the spark rod has the most slop; in the hole connecting to the spark rod AND the movement on the spark rod from the steering column. The pin/rivet in mine was replaced with a cotter pin with lots of back/forth slop before the timer pull rod ever moved the timer. I believe you should be able to resolve any remaining slop or alignment issues to resolve the interference issue a lot easier than the custom timer housing modification you described.
Dave, I forgot to mention another source of play is in the CAM alignment pin hole and Vane actuator. Tightening the CAM nut on the Vane actuator has the effect of turning the Vane actuator in the Advance direction in relation to the CAM shaft which could also cause the condition you described. Try holding the Vane actuator in the retard direction (fully counter-clockwise against the alignment pin stop) as you tighten the CAM nut in the opposite direction (clockwise). Do this should improve or resolve the issue you are experiencing.
The cam nut issue did resolve it. Thanks Mike.
Glad to learn you resolved the problem Dave, thanks for the update. I provided the same information in my reply to your email so you have it for future reference. Please let me know what you think of engine performance now that the alignment issue is resolved.
You'll be smiling after your "new" T drive experience today..... and for a long time after.
Enjoy & be safe.