I have a wallowed out, totally loose crankshaft pulley I'm going to replace on my '23 touring car.
Judging from this forum's archives, this is a common issue. But what I haven't seen in any of the postings or in the Manual is whether you need to take the hand crank and ratchet off to remove the crankshaft pulley. Is that a must, or will the pulley clear the ratchet? It's looks pretty tight to me.
I am planning to remove the radiator.
Thanks for clearing this up!
Yes, remove the ratchet and crank handle. Good luck with your project. Bill
I'm doing the same on my 1915 today while I have the radiator off. The annoying part is getting the cotter pin out of the crank pin, which wants to turn when you try to bend the cotter.
Hi Rick and Steve,
Yes, removing, and later inserting, the cotter pin can be an awkward, frustrating, and patience trying exercise.
I have used these snap-in pins. They work well.
Do be thankful that the ratchet is NOT attached as Ford did from beginning production until some time in 1919: it was RIVETED in place. Good luck with your project. Bill
I had a snap-on ratchet pin. It worked well until the spring broke at the rivet hole and it fell out. Fortunately this happened near a hardware store, so I was able to get a bolt as a temporary replacement. Now I use the stock ratchet pin.
There is a great quality replacement crank pulley, damn equal to Ford original, offered by Bob Bergstadt in Loves Park, Il. Well worth the $$ in quality and fit.
I have wrestled with split pulleys and tension pins ,,,, wouldnt want anyone to go thru that experience.
Steve, just cut the cotter pin into pieces and pull the pieces out. You're going to toss the old cotter pin anyway, so why try to keep it intact?
IMHO Best crank pulley.
While you guys have your crank pulley off This a Perfect time to install a modern seal on your crankshaft and stop any oil drips which then blow back and coat the underside of the T from front to back!
Gene, that's a preservative.
Bob's pulley is 3963-B (1920-1927). Unfortunately, as far as I know there's nobody reproducing 3963-A. Lucky for me, I had a spare better than the one that was on the car. All it took was a little bit of .008" shim for a snug fit.
Yes we have the early one to, Bob
Thanks for the current availability of the earlier crank pulley Bob..... the one I bought from you fit perfectly and solved the noise problem
Good tip.... but the engine has to be lifted from the pan to install the neoprene seal you suggested.
Thanks for all of this great advice and help!
I did get the job done and today I plan to remount the radiator. And then maybe off for a drive….
NO BOB.... The seal is installed backwards with cuts on the lip and flattened to fit on the front cover on the OUTSIDE with the Amazing Ultra Black rtv. You can google or search this forum for info and pictures of how I did this for a NO Leak crankshaft!
BEFORE you install the radiator again - why not check your timing since it is very easy to verify it when the radiator is not in the way.
Great Idea John! It's also a good time to do some timer maintenance and cleaning and check that seal if your running a New Day.It's much easier to see everything when you have the radiator off like the fan pulley as well.
The crank pulley was loose on my '14. I cleaned everything up, coated the crankshaft with The Right Stuff,installed the pulley. Over 15,000 miles and it's still tight.
I had good luck re-installing an old pulley by putting two shims between it and the crankshaft. You put the shims on opposite sides from the pin. Press the pulley on. For a loose pin, you put it across an open vise with the ends resting on top of the jaws. Then take a dull cold chisel and hammer right in the center of the pin and put a small kink there. Now the pin should go through the crank and pulley with a snug fit.