So last time I posted I discovered a stripped head bolt hole in the block. This is what I found:
I ordered a Time-Sert kit and because your good advice prepared me, I ordered a drill guide that had a 29/64" hole, the size of the drill bit hat came with the kit. I used the drill guide to ensure I was drilling at right angle to the block. This is the drilled hole:
Note that by this point I had also used the counterbore bit (also included in kit) to countersink the hole to allow the insert to sink to level with the block.
Then it was time to tap the new threads:
The final action was to screw the insert into the newly tapped hole (after thorough cleaning, of course).
The insert would not screw all the way in, due to the fact that the shortest insert I could find was still longer than the tapped hole was deep. So I had to file a few thousanths off the top to make it even with the block:
It was not a difficult task, but I would not want to do this every day unless I had better tools....
While the head is off I decided to look at the valves. Good thing I did - this is #1 exhaust, as it came out:
Pretty bad, eh? I bet that's why compression was so low. I ground it using 110-grit valve grinding compound and now it looks like this:
I ordered 280-grit lapping compound and will make another pass to, hopefully, arrive at a mirror-finish mating surface.
I will also need to adjust the valves - the car has adjustable lifters installed. The parts suppliers are all out of the special wrench sets for adjusting these lifters, so if anyone has a set and would lend or sell them, please PM me.
When the valve job is done I intend to button the car back up and, hopefully, get a little driving done. I continue to amaze myself that I can do these jobs with the few tools I have, and no guidance except a book and this forum. I love this car!
Glad it worked out. Is that a two-piece valve?
Hey Mark, no it does not look like a 2-piece valve. I am thankful for that, at least. The valve springs are in good shape and the keepers appear to be the upgraded type.
Cliff, That seat looks wide to me. I would cut the block a bit to thin it up. A wide seat will leak. Scott
Scott: Thanks, I noticed that too. This is the widest contact area of all eight valves. I don't have the tools or know-how to modify the block - I will get the best seal I can for the moment to try to get some driving time in this summer.
FWIW, some of the other valves already have seat inserts installed. Might attempt that installation this winter.
Still looking for a set of adjustable valve wrenches, if anyone has for loan or sale.....
I use old Craftsman ignition wrenches to adjust those lifters - they're quite thin.
Make your own wrenches. Get two or three wrenches(depending on which type adjusters you have) the size of your adjusters nuts and grind them down to make the head thinner. 3/8" stock length wrenches work just fine.
Regarding Mark G's suggestion of grinding wrenches down:
I bought a set the cheapest Harbor Freight end wrenches for just that purpose. Whenever I need a special wrench, I just pull the appropriate size out of the set and weld or grind away without a second thought or moment's guilt.
Think the whole set cost seven bucks. When they're ruined, I'll go buy another set and start over.