Finally have enough parts to assemble a working speedometer on my 1917 Maxwell. The housing has been soaked for weeks in gasoline to remove all grease and then for weeks in molasses to remove rust so it is as clean as new. Do I need to figure some way to coat the inside with grease or will loading the chain with grease as it is drawn into the housing be sufficient lubrication? If it does need to lubed inside I appreciate hearing of ways that have worked for you.
Howard, smear grease all over the chain as you put it back in the housing and you'll be fine.
Got it greased and assembled and working. I have not been able to find any verification of how the cable was originally suspended so I bent up my own bracket and got a belt kit from Hobby Lobby and came up with this. What is your opinions? Does this look period correct?
Period correct? Absolutely! Just needs some road dirt all over it.
The Model T was designed and built to be easily maintained by farm folk (who most of us were back then). After spending what may have been a year's profit from the farm to buy the car, they were quite adept at "making-do" as they maintained them.
Today we tend to think of their fixes as half-assed, and yours certainly is, but period correct? Absolutely! Congratulations!
You will want to have your cable run in a path that has the least amount of bends and turns.
Sorry, Howard. That is the second time I've called you Dennis. Maybe I should call you Mr. Dennis...
Remember that cable needs to move with the wheel as you turn corners. It looks like it may be pulled into the leaf spring as you make a right turn?
I think I may have it very close to where it originally ran as it seems to have very little movement from lock to lock. I tried it behind the spring hanger and under the spring it would have to be VERY securely fastened to avoid being hit by the tire during a hard right-hand turn. In the position I have it now it actually has the least bends and seems to just float when the wheels move from lock to lock.
Here's why I come here, as usual someone on here has an answer or at least a different way of looking at things. After Keith & Willis expressed their concerns I jacked the car up and had wife turn wheel and it does rub spring and the cable slides too much in the belt and will cause the belt to eventually fail. I then tried different approaches by putting cable above, below and behind spring and they all weren't quite right. I've since posted on the AACA site hoping a Maxwell owner has an original setup they can share but doubt I will get any response as the Maxwell group isn't nearly as helpful as you guys.
Can you move your made up cable mount to inside of the car frame so that the leather belt loop is more to the inside of the front spring ? Then pull the cable to get a little bit more slack on the wheel side of the belt loop. It may help a little with the cable sliding.
Kevin, I get what you are saying but what doesn't show in my photo is the frame inside isn't accessible as it is covered by the "sod pan" or giant splash apron that completely covers the area from frame bottoms and under the engine. I may experiment with a shorter cable but am trying first to 1. find out what was original routing and suspension and 2. Make sure the 66 inch length is factory correct as I was told. Wished someone had original specifications book from Stewart Warner. I have Maxwell parts books but they have only part numbers and no measurements.