Top bow rivet question?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Top bow rivet question?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 11:45 am:

The rivets I removed are hollow. The new rivets are solid and too long. Do I need to drill the end of new rivets so they mushroom like the old ones? What is the process? Steam bending last corner so the next step will be assembly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 03:00 pm:

You don't need to drill them; the solid rivets are of the correct length to form the truss head on the end of the shank. It's best to anneal the end of the shank before you try to form the head. The vendors sell an air hammer tool to form it, or you can borrow mine if you like.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 05:23 pm:

Thanks R.V. I didnt purchase the rivet tool because I thought I could make something. Sounds like I had better order one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 06:07 pm:

The rivet you want is a semi-tubular rivet. Don Lang should have them, as I sell them to him.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 08:04 pm:

Larry, which is correct, solid rivet or semi-tubular?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 09:22 pm:

The rivets from Langs are solid.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 09:25 pm:

Seems like tubular would flatten easier


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 09:33 pm:

Maybe Langs has solid rivets now, but I've sold a lot of semi-tubular rivets to them. Solid rivets on top bows are a pain in the ass, and they are not authentic either!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenneth W DeLong on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 10:02 pm:

It would seem if only to me without luck and extra hands one could easily spoil your tin work trying to set solid rivets?? Bud.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 11:03 pm:

Larry, can I still get semi-tubular rivets?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 11:09 am:

Semi-tubular rivets are still available, with a truss head.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 01:31 pm:

Larry, So the semi-tubular is what is proper? I'm getting close to putting my '25 bows together, and I didn't take them apart, so I don't remember what was there.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 02:06 pm:

David D,I will post photo of ones I removed and new ones when I get home from work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 05:01 pm:

Some bows came with solid and some used semi-tubular. Either is correct.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 05:37 pm:

Dallas, Wonderful!!! Looking forward to the pics.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 05:51 pm:

I ground the rivet vust enough to drive it out. Measures 1 inch. The new rivets measure 1 1/4 .


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dallas landers on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 05:53 pm:

The head is much larger also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 06:03 pm:

With the new wood, a bit longer rivet than Ford factory is OK, you aren't working with all Ford factory parts there!

Mine was easy, just used 10-penny nails as rivets, cut to extra length of (1 1/2 x dia. of rivet) as formula for amount of rivet to extend past the parts for forming over the rivet. The flat head of the 10-penny nail was approx. size needed.

All this work is wrapped and covered in black cotton drill cloth anyway :-)

(Message edited by dan_Treace on June 13, 2017)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Tuesday, June 13, 2017 - 11:57 pm:

Thanks Dallas, so your original was a semi-tubular rivet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker, Ramona, CA on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 12:44 am:

The Snyder catalog shows both solid and hollow rivets for top bows depending on the year.


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