The rivets I removed are hollow. The new rivets are solid and too long. Do I need to drill the end of new rivets so they mushroom like the old ones? What is the process? Steam bending last corner so the next step will be assembly.
You don't need to drill them; the solid rivets are of the correct length to form the truss head on the end of the shank. It's best to anneal the end of the shank before you try to form the head. The vendors sell an air hammer tool to form it, or you can borrow mine if you like.
Thanks R.V. I didnt purchase the rivet tool because I thought I could make something. Sounds like I had better order one.
The rivet you want is a semi-tubular rivet. Don Lang should have them, as I sell them to him.
Larry, which is correct, solid rivet or semi-tubular?
The rivets from Langs are solid.
Seems like tubular would flatten easier
Maybe Langs has solid rivets now, but I've sold a lot of semi-tubular rivets to them. Solid rivets on top bows are a pain in the ass, and they are not authentic either!
It would seem if only to me without luck and extra hands one could easily spoil your tin work trying to set solid rivets?? Bud.
Larry, can I still get semi-tubular rivets?
Semi-tubular rivets are still available, with a truss head.
Larry, So the semi-tubular is what is proper? I'm getting close to putting my '25 bows together, and I didn't take them apart, so I don't remember what was there.
David D,I will post photo of ones I removed and new ones when I get home from work.
Some bows came with solid and some used semi-tubular. Either is correct.
Dallas, Wonderful!!! Looking forward to the pics.
I ground the rivet vust enough to drive it out. Measures 1 inch. The new rivets measure 1 1/4 .
The head is much larger also.
With the new wood, a bit longer rivet than Ford factory is OK, you aren't working with all Ford factory parts there!
Mine was easy, just used 10-penny nails as rivets, cut to extra length of (1 1/2 x dia. of rivet) as formula for amount of rivet to extend past the parts for forming over the rivet. The flat head of the 10-penny nail was approx. size needed.
All this work is wrapped and covered in black cotton drill cloth anyway
(Message edited by dan_Treace on June 13, 2017)
Thanks Dallas, so your original was a semi-tubular rivet.
The Snyder catalog shows both solid and hollow rivets for top bows depending on the year.