Can someone please measure their trunk lid?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Can someone please measure their trunk lid?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Shawn on Sunday, June 11, 2017 - 10:42 pm:

Morning guys, can someone please help? could I bother someone to measure their 1926 t coupe trunk lid width. I'm not sure if mine is correct.

trunk1


trunk2

Many thanks in advance,


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 12:00 am:

I took measurements from my 27 which (I Think) is the same as 26.

The bottom width is the same as yours (34-1/2"). The top width is 36-1/8". The sheet metal on my car is all original.

It looks to me, that your new lower panel is a little too wide. I can measure the lower panel if you want that dimension also.

Good luck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Shawn on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 12:04 am:

That would be great. I have ordered two of these lower panels and both are the same size. Could I also bother you to measure the opening where the trunk lid fits? Maybe the top and bottom? It looks as though my gaps are two big. But I can't make to top any smaller as it's fixed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 12:23 am:

I measured the gap on each side and it is 1/8". The edge gap is very even from top to bottom. Hopefully, you can figure what width the new panel should be based on a 1/8" gap on each side.

The installed panel width is not that easy to measure as it extends under the bead roll.

The deck lid and surrounding body metal on my car looks original......there is no evidence of any previous repaired damage.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 12:24 am:

I measured the gap on each side and it is 1/8". The edge gap is very even from top to bottom. Hopefully, you can figure what width the new panel should be based on a 1/8" gap on each side.

The panel width is not that easy to measure as it extends under the bead roll.

The deck lid and surrounding body metal on my car looks original......there is no evidence of any previous repaired damage.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Shawn on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 12:48 am:

Thanks for your help. I have just taken a heap of measurements so what I will do is draw it up and post in here and see where mine is wrong because even with the panel taken out the trunk lid is way to small for the gap. Really appreciate the help Les.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A Bartsch on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 12:50 am:

Shawn:

Original '26 coupe, engine # 13,605,xyz - lid, like yours, 34 3/8"; opening, 34 5/8". Your panel is too long, apparently. best, jb


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 01:21 am:

Shawn,

After you remove the new lower panel...hopefully, you can carefully pull the outer body panels in some using ratchet tie down straps. Make sure you pull each side in the same so the gap remains even on both sides. The outer panels may have been pushed out some due to an accident where the original lower panel was pushed in.
There will be spring back when you remove the pull in pressure....take small pulls until the outer panels retain their proper width. Normally, it will require over pulling to end up with what you want.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 01:22 am:

Shawn,

After you remove the new lower panel...hopefully, you can carefully pull the outer body panels in some using ratchet tie down straps. Make sure you pull each side in the same so the gap remains even on both sides. The outer panels may have been pushed out some due to an accident where the original lower panel was pushed in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 07:18 pm:

A purist will have a hard time trying to get body panels, trunk lids and etc. in perfectly square measurements.
The reason being Ford didn't make or build a perfect Model T.
Especially when it comes to body sheet metal.

It's not uncommon to find trunk lids and openings to be as much as 1/4 to 3/8" out of square.
More than a few T's have been restored to better than 'factory' specs.

Model T's are Model T's and not built like a Rolls Royce.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Shawn on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 10:08 pm:

Where is the best place to hook the strap onto on the panel? On the gutter lip?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Monday, June 12, 2017 - 10:42 pm:

I suggest clamping two pieces of angle iron (One On Each Side) positioned behind the gutter lip. Use vice grips to attach the strap hooks to the angle. You want to distribute the load so the panels are not distorted. Take a little pull and take some measurements before releasing to see if the trunk opening gets smaller. I normally use a come-a-long to do pulls like this....Nylon tie down ratchet straps should work also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Shawn on Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 09:57 pm:

Thanks again Les. I'll try tomorrow (our weekend) but I'm not really sure what you mean with the angle iron.

Can I also ask for the measurement between the inside of the two rails at the far rear? Mine is totally gone.

gap


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Friday, June 16, 2017 - 12:52 am:

Shawn,
I suggested using angel iron with one leg clamped behind the drip edge. You could weld an ear on the remaining leg to pull from. Depending on how hard of a pull is required....pulling off vice grips may also work. With out a floor....the sides may pull in very easily. The floor is a very important structural part to keep the body square and space the outside rear panels where they need to be. In your picture, there is nothing securing the side panels to keep the body square in the back. The rear panel is not as important compared to the metal floor which is totally missing. I'm happy to supply dimensions....however, with what is missing on your car....not sure I can relate what I have to what you don't have..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Shawn on Friday, June 16, 2017 - 02:31 am:

Thanks again Les. I'll try tomorrow (our weekend) but I'm not really sure what you mean with the angle iron.

Can I also ask for the measurement between the inside of the two rails at the far rear? Mine is totally gone.

2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A Bartsch on Friday, June 16, 2017 - 10:19 am:

Shawn: My '26 body sub-frame is rusted out too. I had good success with fitting a new lower body panel first and making sure the lid to body clearance was ~1/8", panel fit tight and square, etc. You wont need heavy equipment, angle iron, etc to adjust the opening with so much missing metal. It is important to get it all in place and square before you start replacing any of that lost framework and body metal. (FYI, the distance across the rain gutters at the location of the two holes visible in the pic (hole center to center, side to side) is 34-1/2" on my '26.)

Then I will attack the subframe and rear crossmember problems with the panel bolted in place to maintain body dimensions. After fitting rear and side subframe and replacing lost body metal, the rear panel can be removed for final cleaning, fitting, priming. You may PM me if you have specific questions, I realize this detailed posting is boring to many who have already done this stuff and moved on. jb


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