Rear end break in

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Rear end break in
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Davis-Williams - Lake City, MI on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 08:10 pm:

Hello,

I have put about 400 miles on my new rear end and driveshaft assembly. Tonight I noticed a little oil on the ground beneath the rear end. I double checked the oil level, which was right to the bottom of the fill hole (1926 rear end), but I was surprised about the color of the new 600w oil. It was already quite dark and I noticed little glittery metallic flakes. Some looked silver and some kind of bronze. It has a brand new ring and pinion and also new bronze thrust washers. Common sense tells me that the flakes are just remnants of a freshly breaking in rear end. I rebuilt to spec and the new rear end is silent. Anyway, is this normal so soon? I'm just shocked at how fast it looks polluted...then again I've never checked rear end oil this early! I am also assuming that I should pump that oil soonish, and replace?

The new oil leak will get fixed this winter....until then I will just top it off as needed. I used the paper gaskets, soak in water and dried slightly, then applied with permatex...so perhaps I'll just let her leak a little, why fight it if it's minor? It is also leaking in front of the new spindle with modern bearings...so I think it might be getting some oil from the engine down the torque tube.

This is my first T and it is fascinating how simple, yet complex it is! I better start saving now for #2...I'm hooked :-)

Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 08:33 pm:

Do you have a Ruckstell? Sometimes they will leak around the shifter lever.

You could have some old metal particles which were in the tube which did not get washed out, or most likely from the gears and thrust washers. You might have just a slight bit of wear at first until all the parts make a complete polished fit. Unless it gets quite noisy or has excessive end play or makes a noticeable clunk when you change from pulling to braking, you should not worry.

Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 - 09:15 pm:

If just a little bronze showing, your OK. As some 'wear' in will happen immediately.

As for getting the bronze thrust sized, have used a belt sander, and it works OK, but before did a set without careful measure. Now have a holding fixture and new belt, and do better. Plus clean the surfaces well.

Now here is a real "rub"



Way too much 'gold' in the 600W :-(

Running in rebuild, noted pretty much too warm to the touch on the driver's pumpkin. No real grinding sounds, axle was quiet.
But had suspicions of my thinning down the thrusts.

So off for another rebuild.



Took apart, and sure enough, the high spots showed on the bronze thrusts, re did them, and again tested a bunch by turning over the ring gear with a finger to have absolutely no drag at any point of rotation of the assembly. That fixed it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Davis-Williams - Lake City, MI on Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 07:09 am:

Thanks Norm and Dan! I have a stock rear end. Once I get the other kinks on this car figured out, I might invest in a ruckstell. I have no clunks and it doesn't seem to get any hotter than any other rear end on another vehicle. Luckily my 600w isn't that bronzy, however I'll keep an eye on it and remove the rear end and reassess if this doesn't resolve or if a new noise develops. I appreciate your input! Oh, and just to save face as a novice.... I meant spool, not spindle. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 07:41 am:

You could suck up as much of the oil as possible with a syringe style pump just after a drive when it flows a little better and fill some new. Then you won't worry about the silvery flakes from the run in process causing wear. We do change the oil in the engine when running in an overhauled engine after just a few miles..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 09:04 am:

Hmm, I'm approaching 100 miles on Betsy's new Ruckstell, I wonder if I should plan on changing the fluid at some point.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem - SE Michigan on Thursday, June 15, 2017 - 10:55 am:

Here's my technique. I rebuild the rear end, and if it's quiet, I never look at it again.

A small drip is "normal", though of course, not desired. It will take a looong time, most likely, to effect the level by any measurable amount. Next time you rebuild one, carefully file down the faces of the differential case to remove any burrs or bent over ears, (where the bolts go through). Lack of flatness there will cause an oil leak every time.


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