Great deal, now I must build a speedster.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Great deal, now I must build a speedster.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Friday, June 16, 2017 - 02:21 pm:

I actually found some T parts in South well central FL and picked them up yesterday. It seems that someone is building a hotrod and wanted the frame and body (including steering column) and had no use for a complete (minus mentioned parts) '27 chassis. I was ok with his price but considering the distance I travelled he knocked $500 off! Thank you FJ for convincing me to look thru facebook . . .

It appears somebody went thru or did something to the engine/starter/generator as well as the rear end. There is a strainer with magnet that has minor "fuzz" on it, no pieces. It turns over with the crank smoothly and was a running driving car (on bat AND mag) when he took off the body and frame replacing it with wood. I'm not sure what the head is as there is no "Ford" or "made in USA" although it does have T plugs. There is another post for identifying the head before I check compression etc and remove it. If I cut the entrance to my trailer she will fit in like the trailer was made for her. Anyways hers some pictures and a sketch of the plans.









Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew Atchinson on Friday, June 16, 2017 - 02:29 pm:

Looks like a great start to a speedster, and it really doesn't need much! Looks to me like you have a stock 26/27 motor with vaporizer carb. I believe Ford stopped printing the "Ford USA" logo on the heads by 1923, so it's probably just a stock high head. My stock 26 Coupe lacks the Ford script on the head as well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Saturday, July 01, 2017 - 07:52 pm:

The radiator and headlights have been sourced. Ive mocked up a seat pattern, as well as replacing the wood frame with a proper T frame which has been set at the correct height I am aiming for. Now I just need to get the axles to that height.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Lloid on Saturday, July 01, 2017 - 07:59 pm:

Gonna be a neat project.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Saturday, July 01, 2017 - 08:39 pm:

Uh, why pull the head? Sounds like the engine was likely rebuilt. Get a mirror and look through the spark plug hole (even better, find someone with those cameras on a flex shaft) and look at the valves. If they don't have two holes in the tops, likely are one-piece--leave well enough alone!!
Now that you have it on a frame, start it up and see how it runs!
Sad that a running T got parted for a rod--can't imagine why he wanted the steering column, certainly wont use the planetary gears for modern steering.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Saturday, July 01, 2017 - 10:59 pm:

First the only place I can keep it is in the trailer which I will have to modify to get it in and out. Second I want to see what the engine looks like as nobody knows what the status is. Third it's a speedster and I want to make it go a bit better than stock.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Saturday, July 01, 2017 - 11:29 pm:

Well, if you're going to make a "go fast" engine out of, might as well pull the engine as you'll have to check all the bearings, make certain the rods are straight, the pan straight, etc. etc. If the bottom end isn't up to snuff, the go-fast equipment will trash it. Those are some wild headlights!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Saturday, July 01, 2017 - 11:50 pm:

All I plan on "doing" engine wise is removing the mag, installing an oil pump, checking weight, bearings, installing a distributor, new intake, larger zenith carb, headers, and a nice aluminum head. Depending on how the radiator is there may be a waterpump in the future.

The headlights are Auburn, the radiator whippet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 12:30 am:

Ow, so many blasphemies in one sentence! No mag (and it's working)a Dis#$$%$er, and a Water Pump!!
This will require acts of penance!
:-)
Well Chad, not the way I'd go, but then I don't like to go fast! :-)

This is my idea of a speedster--doesn't go fast, but looks like it should--image is everything!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 07:47 am:

Note I said depending on the radiator, unlike a T radiator you can't just go out and buy a new core for a whippet. Not to mention the size of the inlet and outlet on the radiator are half the size of a T restricting a thermo syphon system. As far as the mag I would like to run one just not a Ford mag. It isn't in the budget. To each his own, your drawing makes me think chitty chitty bang bang was your favorite film. Only you tried to cross it with a late model A (wheels bumpers), early T (brass throughout), and black iron T (radiator). There is alot of potential there and if you would like some advice I would be happy to offer it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 01:15 pm:

Chadwick, I am very open to advice. Wheels are '27 T, I have them in hand, bumpers are supposed to be some aftermarket, but they do look like A bumperettes. Not certain I still have the bumpers, might have unloaded them at a swap meet years ago--this is a long-range project, although I do have a chassis sitting around.
I hadn't thought about CCBB, I suppose there is some influence there. Body is planned to be an epoxyed laminate for lightness; but very open to suggestions. I have no idaa where I'll find a windshield frame like that; might have to build it.
Like any good T, only one door, on the passenger side! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Carl Sorenson-Montrose,CO on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 02:29 pm:

If you don't use it ,,I'd like to get in line for that fuel shut-off valve ......


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 03:52 pm:

David-

First off your portions seem to be off, have you tried drawing a side profile? It looks like the seat in your drawing sits where the seat is on a roadster (in relation to the rear axle) sits or even a bit forward. The height of the seat appears to be only a few inches above the wheel height (indicating a significant drop). If these bits are true you have managed to either shrink somebodys legs or extend the chassis about 20 inches. If you use a TT frame problem solved except for needing a longer drive shaft. The windshield is comparable to an MGB roadster, this is assuming the glass is curved (not period) as it appears in your drawing. I'm guessing you are looking for a rumble seat (step plates) in the back of the boat. If the seat is on top of the rear axle/spring one is going to sit very high and leave fuel tank space going??? The streamlined reverse slope of the wood is interestering, do you have a particular car in mind that you patterened it after?

Carl-
I will need a fuel shutoff but I don't need to use that one. If you have something for trade I would be interested.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 06:05 pm:

Chadwick,
Ah! That is only a CONCEPT drawing I did on my own using only my memory. Windshield will be flat, or V, depending on when I do the actual build planning. Looking at the drawing now, I can see where it looks curved--oh well. . .
Seating should be about what's in a normal roadster, although I might move the seat back a bit for comfort. No rumble seat, just a trunk. Tail end is patterned after a boat--I don't think I've seen any car bodies like it, it's a reverse prow stern--sort of like taking a bow and putting it on the back upside-down. I added the running lights to the back deck and the side aprons for effect. I will probably use Model A taillights because they're easy to find--although the '28 teacup lights would probably look more period. (Just thought of that-see, it's a work in progress!) The whole body is probably too stretched in this sketch. Consider it advertising copy, like, "Somewhere west of Laramie. . ."
There were no measurements made to do that drawing, it's just out of my head (Danger! Will Robinson!). I do kinda like the maroon metal pieces against the natural finished wood--I think. . . Might have to put some french Grey striping to match the wheels, or some maroon striping on the wheels to match the fenders.
Any other ideas? Lots of time to throw them around!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 08:19 pm:

The more you lower your seat/driving position the further back it must go. Try starting with a side profile first, you will most likely find that what you want won't look as good as your drawing on a stock T wheelbase. Adding a warford without cutting the driveline then running a set back engine might achieve the results you are looking for.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Sunday, July 02, 2017 - 11:28 pm:

Hmm, You may be right on that. Well, when I have more time, I'll do a scale drawing--But, by doing that drawing, I set a lot of what was just rolling around in my head on paper, and came up with a few things I hadn't thought about. One big consideration is cockpit comfort--or SWMBO won't approve of the project!!
Driving seat position--hmm, I know I don't want to lower it too much, or I won't be able to get in & out! :-)
One thing I haven't addressed yet is a top, for driving comfort is crucial.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 10:01 am:

Comfort is a big thing. As your seats become more verticle there is less support by your legs and better cushioning needed. Also to have a wide enough seat there needs to be considerable body swell, very difficult in a short wheelbase. As an example of a comfortably wide boattail seat . . .



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 11:37 am:

Very cool; I can see where my rear deck will have to be much shorter than my concept; unless, as you suggested, I extend the frame. There's quite a drop in that car's frame, and it looks like a fabric body too.
"considerable body swell" Hmm, that's the kindest phrasing I've heard for this malady. . .
:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Monday, July 03, 2017 - 02:39 pm:

Hypothetically say a 36" seat for two you get to "swell" from 20 inches to 36 (still a narrow seat) and back down to 0 all in 100-120 inches of length. The bucket seats I am doing on this are 18" wide and I stagger them to increase leg room and shoulder space.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chadwick Azevedo on Monday, July 17, 2017 - 09:20 am:

Work was able to progress on the car last week (landlords were gone so I could move the trailer in and have some time) although only for a few days.


I also found a key for my ignition switch, close enough to ford but a little different as a speedster should be.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Patrick-Ypsi, MI on Monday, July 17, 2017 - 10:22 am:

Chadwick, The fabric covering the body is a great idea. It reminds me of early (and some current) aircraft.

Patrick
Ypsi, MI


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