On my 2 Ts and a friend's T we have found that the vendors out side oil lines have never had any oil in them. Many miles on all cars. What gives , false insurance. Any body else have this problem and how to fix it.
It's been a while since I worked on my oiler, but you need to be sure that the hole is clear. The electrode can sometimes block it. After you get it installed, you can check it by disconnecting the front end of the pipe and holding it over a pan while the engine is running to see if oil comes out.
Since there are many different outside oil line setups, how about less general rant and more specific information on what does not work. If you can tell just what the problem is maybe the venders and the rest of us can learn and upgrade ours.
My 11 touring came with an outside magneto post oiler. I cannot see how any oil flowed threw it, it's been removed and disposed of properly.
Once upon a time I ran a mag post oiler from one of the vendors... No magneto coils or magnets in the motor, just the magnet spools to throw the oil in there. I did pull the "guts" out of the mag post, but when the 5/16" copper oil tube broke the line was moving enough oil to leave a solid stripe on the road.
My guess is that if you have a oil line with nothing goin thru it... Band lint!!! If your slipping the pedals, dragging the brake, or God forbid... have a cracked drum, those ol' Scandinavias can really fuzz up the inside of your motor. And if you find fuzz in your outside oiler, you can be sure there is fuzz in your inside oiler too. Every T owner should consider one of the screens that install under the transmission cover to catch the lint. It may not catch all the lint, but it helps.
My friends car has kevlar linings with oil screen. Out side line clean as new. I'm running the older Scandinavian linings with oil screens. No fuzz in the lines. Maybe enlarging the mag post hole may help just a thought. Just curious if any body else had this problem and thinking oil was going forward.
Bill, this subject usually results in a split decision around here, as it works for some and not for others for some reason. I Installed one because i didn't want to tap into my hogshead, although i did modify mine by removing some material to enhance the flow. Mine pumps plenty of oil for what it is. There are some other options out there which will deliver tons of oil to the front if you decide this one doesn't work best for you. Hope this helps.
Bill, I am currently running one of the "high volume" outside oilers with great results. But you must modify the hogs head for the oil pickup bracket. Some people, understandably, do not want to modify any parts. In the past I have used the standard mag post oilers that feed to the fitting that replaces a timing gear cover bolt. They do not require any modifications to use them , and can easily be returned to stock if a person wants to. They do not flow as much oil as the "high volume" style but they do work if properly installed. Usually the problem of no oil flow is in the mag post. A very close inspection of the mag post housing, the fitting for the oil line, and the inner spring and contact will show the problem. Sometimes the oil line fitting screws in too far, some contact springs are too large, or the mag post housing is restricted a little. I usually take a die grinder to the inside diameter of the mag post housing. I also screw the oil line fitting into the mag post housing and orientate it correctly. If the fitting sticks thru too far I use the die grinder to remove any excess fitting protruding to the inside of the mag post housing. If you happen to have the hogs head off the engine, then pre fit the mag post to the hogs head and inspect the inside of the hogs head for any protrusions into the hogs head. This only applies to the pipe thread 26-27 style mag post. If it does stick into the hogs head, only grind off the right side (passenger side of US cars) and leave the rest of the part protruding into the hogs head as an "oil diverter. Just a very little bit of something acting as an "oil diverter" will make a big difference. For the "three screw" style I have seen where someone has ground a small trough on the right side only. This allows the oil to flow thru the trough and hit the other side of the mag post hole. That will act as a small oil diverter. Just a very shallow trough is all that is needed. These are just suggestions. They are things I have seen or did myself. I in no way claim to be an expert. But with a good inspection of the parts, proper installation procedures, and then a test as mentioned above to verify the oil flow, The mag post oilers will give a decent amount of flow. Not as good as the high volume type or a oil pump, but worth the effort. have fun and be safe .... Donnie Brown ....
My TT had a mag post oil line on it when I got it. It did not work. I have no idea what brand it was, but it attached to the side of the mag post and ran down to a hollow bolt on the front of the pan. It was not plugged. It was just drier'n a popcorn phart. I put a rebuilt engine in the truck a year or so later and didn't bother with any outside oilers. When we got my wife's car, we rebuilt that engine after a year or so and didn't bother with any outside oiler on it either. So far, no problem and both have been run for several years. I use wood bands which do not produce lint, so I'm not too worried about plugging the inside line.
If you are ever curious as to how much oil makes it to the front, crawl under there with the engine at idle and remove one of the front dipper pan bolts and see what come out, then imagine what that would look like if the engine were running at speed. For that matter, I suppose one could do the same test with the front end raised to simulate climbing a hill.
My "outside" oil line is like John Noonan"s
When I first got it, the brass fitting extended almost to the mag post and very little oil flowed.
Later I ground some material off the inside of the donut and recessed the end of the fitting like John's picture.
Oil now flows!
On my first T I was driving along and all of a sudden the magneto quit working. I switched to battery and drove it for about 10 years on battery, which included a few week long tours. Then when I was restoring another T I decided to rewind my magneto coils. I rewound 3 magneto rings and installed one into the T I had been driving for 10 years. When I pulled the engine I found the funnel off the inside oiler laying in the crankcase and several damaged coils on the magneto.
I had been driving for 10 years with only the inside oil pipe with no funnel and the magneto oiler and my bearings were still good.
I've never had a problem with the mag post oilers, but I don't come out to an elbow, I prefer to come out with a gentle radius bend in the tubing. That said, The Ford Faithful is a much better outside oiler.
I've had a Sure Feed on one of my T's for over 55 years with no problems.
We are in the process of manufacturing the Ford Faithful oiler now. Should have it soon. It is probably the best oiler ever made for the Model T. This will probably be the last new part we ever make for the Model T. If someone does not show some financial interest in our business all of our new parts will disappear.
Splice a piece of clear plastic tubing in the line, and watch the oil flow.
I have a mag post oiler. Made the mistake once of pulling the oil fill cap that it runs to off while car was running. The amount of oil spray the fan kicked back at me has me thoroughly convinced that if the lien is clear it does a great job.
Bill thanks for the heads up. Mine is dry too.
I put this on thinking it would do what it was said to do. Maybe for some they work but obviously its hit and miss. I thought I had it covered.
Better check and in absence of that don't conclude yours works.
1st photo, engine off. 2nd photo, engine running just above idle.
Would like to add that the two previous photos of the spliced clear tubing was to verify oil flow through the tube. New tubing was installed afterward.
I like this type.