With a frame up on sawhorses, what measurements will tell if it is straight, or crooked?
I plan on seeing a couple, maybe more, forum members with frames for sale on my trip to Baltimore and back.
I simply have no way to straighten a frame, nor have I ever seen it done, so I very much want to buy a straight one.
Any help is appreciated.
Pull a string from one end to the other at top of frame and see if sagged(most are) then measure from corner to corner to see if it is racked. KGB
Measure from opposite corners will determine square. Pulling a string from end to end would show a sag or crown. There are plenty of threads of straightening a sagged or out of square frame. Google your request with mtfca at the end and you will get many topics covering straightening/squaring.
Keith typed faster
In the event a frame I may find IS not straight, do you know of anyone around here, or possibly Jackson or Corinth, that can straighten it?
Please let me know.
Thank you, Gary.
Bare frame, hold a string tight along the top/bottom of the side rail, front and back. Use your eyes, does it look bowed or sagging? check the corners for squareness. I don't recall the number off hand, google it, check to see what the center to center measurement between the radiator mounting holes is.
Thank you, Mark.
I'm adding string to my list of items to take on this trip.
Mark, I think 21 and a half on the radiator mounts, Bill, I might be able to help with the straightening if I can get Rick Moore to help. KGB
There has got to be a garage in Memphis that can straighten a frame, fish plate or box in portions of it if necessary. Of course, the '26-27 frame is thicker steel but neither of these options will leave your brass era car correct. That's up to you. My garage landlord has a vehicle frame straightener for sale but it will cost as much as a Model T. My rivets were shot and were replaced with grade 8 bolts, after disassembling the entire frame, fighting rust, and reassembling everything thing in the flat and level position. Note the level and cardboard shims in the pic. In the future, if I have the time and funds I may replace them with the correct rivet.
Vern, thank you for the picture; I'll be sure to add a level to my list.
Keith, that would be great! I'll bring the refreshments.
Vern, I know you're bringing one back from the dead, but I think the grade 8 bolts are to hard and brittle for that use. The Ford frame is designed to flex, which is why it's riveted, not welded together. I know it's work, but considering what you've already had to do, I'd get down and learn riveting--it's not that hard, actually!
Yes, you'll have to repaint where you rivet. . .
When I was rewooding a Model A Fordor, I set up the straight chassis dead level so I'd have an accurate reference point while building the wood structure. I have a surveyor's level, so that made it easier to get it right.
The front cross member is most often spread and the rear is sometimes collapsed. Measure the center to center radiator mounting holes. They should be exactly 21 1/2" on center. Outside to outside of the frame rails should measure 23" the full length.
Squareness has already been mentioned.
Frame straightening is NOT hard to do. The T frame is not that rigid and easily bends. If you have a couple of chains, a jack and a wood beam (6x6) and a string, you can do it. You will have to bend past the point of straight as the frame rails seem to have a memory and will tend to return to where they were.
Bump to get rid of the spam
Thank you, Jack.