Hey guys. I picked up a set of front and rear wire wheel hubs a while back but they came with the front and rear axles. They are still mounted and i've tried to remove them but they won't budge. The front hubs spin freely. What am I missing?

Assuming the obvious (the cotter and nut have been removed), the front bearings are threaded onto the spindle. Once those are removed, they should slide off with a little resistance.

Don't forget the bearings are threaded RH threads on the Left side and LH threads on the Right...

Ah, great. Thanks guys.

Do the rears have threaded bearings as well?

(Message edited by frosst on June 24, 2017)

There are no bearings in the rear hubs.
The rear hubs turn with the axle.

And you'll need a hub puller to remove the rear hubs from the axle. (If not, they're too loose and will wear)
http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/detail/OTC0/7394/N2408.oap?ck=Search_N2 408_-1_-1&pt=N2408&ppt=C2371

Tom this is a great place to ask but if you have gotten yourself a Model T I am going to suggest getting an owners manual and the service book. The owners manual was written for people that never owned or worked on a car and the service book has illustrations along with proper sequence to do repair work on the Model T. If you are just taking some T parts apart to get back into the market, ask away.

(Message edited by redmodelt on June 25, 2017)

$160 for that hub puller. Doesnt the Model A hub puller work and is only $60?

There must certainly be cheaper rear hub pullers out there - the one I found looked like the general style I use that fits any old car where the hub/brake drum sits really tight on a cone on the axle.

If you have the standard wire hub which was made for the 26-27 wire wheels, there is a groove around the hub. You can use a two or three leg puller in that groove and tighten the bolt against the axle. A tap with a heavy hammer when it is tight should loosen it. It is actually easier than with the screw on type for the wood wheel hubs which screw on type can get stripped.
Norm

Just get a axle knocker nut from one of the vendors, never had a problem using one and they are cheap. You will need a BFH.

Thanks guys. I have the service manual but I have to say, it's not as detailed as I would have hoped when it comes to certain things on the car. Not to mention, I've already purchased two, and the second seller claimed it was for a 1926/27 car but no information on wire wheels. They only have images of the wood ones.
The T is just a bit of a change for me as I'm used to working on cars form the 60's and having manuals that are significantly more detailed. I just thought i'd ask before I actually screw something up.

I don't believe an axle knocker nut will work well on an axle that isn't connected to a car; you need mass to keep the axle housing from just being bounced away. Axle knockers, IMHO are very good for bending the threaded end of the axle.