Messed up and posted the picture before I put in the text of the question. Anyway, there is some slack in the steering but when I move the steering wheel the pitman doesn't move so I suspect the steering wheel lock is the problem. Another question: When I get the lock out of the way will I need to find the original parts to fill in between the quadrant and the steering wheel? Thanks for your help.
It should just unscrew from the steering column. Check to see if there is a set screw holding it in place before you try twisting it off. Remove any set screw first.
If it's locked, there may be a sector gear that slides in to prevent the housing from turning and being removed. I also had one with a small pin that was hammered in between the gear case and the lock. That one required drilling.
You might want to hand the whole thing to a locksmith if it's currently locked.
On your top picture there looks like a brass pin sticking up between the id plate and the lock. You will need to drill that pin out then just unscrew the lock.
That looks like the same lock that was on my car and that is how I had to remove it. I also found that the sun gear in my lock was completely worn out but the planet gears were fine.
It looks like the only thing you'll need to buy is the pinion shaft that attaches the steering wheel. The triple gears should be stock.
I see a pin between the name plate and the key slot. That is probably locking it to the brass quadrant. That pin could have been driven across the threads of the quadrant, thus locking it in place. You will have to drill it out.
I think I read that they might have used a driven in pin, which might be what that hump is between the data plate and key lock hump in the first photo. It might need to be drilled out. It would have been a simple thing to file a new notch for the pin in the case.
OK, the pin is drilled out all the way. I assume the lock unscrews in the regular way--left to loose. However, the dad gum thing hasn't moved yet, even with a large pipe wrench. I can see only one pin. Just keep messin't with it, or what? Thanks, sure do appreciate the comments.
I might not have drilled out that pin. On a similar set-up, (Fox lock), there is a small notch on the underside of the locking housing that allows for a small punch to be inserted. The punch drives the pin out from the bottom side up.
See the photo cut. The arrow MAY point to the punch hole/notch that I refer to above. Look up from the bottom to see. You may not have drilled deep enough to get rid of the entire pin, especially where it engages the gearbox. If you can, use the punch to remove any remaining pin.
Still messin' with it Jerry. I've checked the place you have indicated, however there isn't anything there that I can find. I have drilled some more on the pin but so far the lock wants to stay where it is. I've tapped a punch into the hole and seems like something moved but not the lock. I'll get back on it later but right now I want to think about it and go look again. Sure appreciate the help.
What does the data plate say? Maybe Jay or somebody has an NOS one in the box with its instructions that show how it is attached.
Great suggestion Mark. On the data plate it says:
Bauer Mfg Co.
Couldn't read the last number
I found this and thought I hit the jackpot for you, but it seems to be not exactly the same.
John: I would clean it up as best you can and keep looking around for another pin holding it all together. I may have a Bauer in the shop and will look tomorrow to see if I can figure anything out.
Thanks Tim. I've looked all over for another pin but no joy so far---but that doesn't mean it isn't there. None of the drawings I've seen are like my lock and the key goes in on the passenger side of the steering wheel, not on the top. But I don't have a key either.
Bob Bergstadt had a posting on removing this kind of Bauer lock back in 2013 in August. " Locking Steering - what"s the deal with this?"
Looked at that posting---not the same lock I don't think. Maybe I could get our youngest grandmonkey to get after it. It will eventually come off so I'm in a learning mode today.
Got to be something there. The thing obviously lifts off as one piece since the case doesn't seem to come apart.
Or does it un screw off the quadrant threads?
Please remember that these were not intended to be removed once installed; if they were the car thief would remove it, install the Ford parts he had with him and drive off with the car.
For many (most) of these locks, you would remove the Ford wheel, gear case cover, and the pinion. Then install the lock's internal parts (if any) and screw onto the case the lock with it's pinion. When seated one or more pins would be driven into holes in the lock housing to prevent unscrewing that housing from the Ford case, just as the small lock screw used by Ford prevents the cover from being unscrewed. That pin (or pins, if more than one) MUST be removed to allow the lock unit to be removed from the Ford gear case.
Good luck with your project, Bill
Most of those locks require the key to remove. Otherwise, what good are they.
Have you checked around the perimeter of the lower edge (facing the firewall). Sometimes there's pins there.
Looked all over for another pin but no joy yet. Might check with a local locksmith to see if they can make a key. I guess that's the next step. Sure appreciate all the good suggestions. Thanks
I have a Bauer lock like that on my car and to get it off the old column the pin that is shown in the picture between the lock and the data plate up from the arrow needed to be drilled out. The pin went down inside the case and could be not be gotten from the bottom.The small screw at the top comes out and the lock must be unlocked , then it will unscrew like a standard cover. The number stamped on my lock cylinder "A" on one end of the slot 501 on the top of the slot and CD on the bottom. If you get the pin out and these numbers are same let me know. Good Luck Frank
Thanks Frank. The pin has been drilled out--I think all of it. However, I don't see a "--small screw at the top--"? But I do understand that I need to unlock it. I guess I need to take it to a locksmith to have that done. Just went out to the car to check on a "small screw at the top" and haven't found that on this lock. I'll keep checking. Thanks,
The small screw is in the same position as the standard cover at the top to keep it from coming loose, maybe it is already out.If so there should be a small hole across from the pin. The pin you drilled out should have gone down between the lock cover and the gear case threads so it will be hard to unscrew because both sets of threads are smashed. Let me know about the number on the lock cylinder. Frank
I've got a Bauer lock, designated Model 1 on the aluminum tag, that looks like yours. It has two keys and I am not sure it has ever been on a car. Looking at the underside, there are 2 slots in the threads directly opposite from one another. There is nothing else that would stop the threads from turning. Looking down at the top of the case, there are 2 holes; one is shown on your first picture on the key side, directly opposite on the case there is another hole. Both holes lead to the slots on the inside. The keys say 'Taylor' on one side and on the other, fits - 1069M. Hope this helps.
John, I have the same Bauer lock and it has 2 holes for the pins.Check the other side ,maybe it is hidden.
Thanks for the help. I've found the second pin and in the process of taking it out. Hope to have that done tomorrow. Thanks again,
Well, guess what. The second pin is now out and the lock unscrewed easily by hand. Thanks for all the good comments. Also, the lock does not have to be unlocked. I didn't mess with that at all. Now I need to find the parts that are needed to replace the steering wheel. I'm not sure what the cover is called that fits over the 3 gears in the box so I'll need one of those plus the shaft that goes through the steering wheel. There is a shaft in the lock---can I use that? Thanks again for all the help.
John, I don't have one 'in hand" but I think the shaft with the lock is unique to the lock and you'll need a "regular" shaft. When looking for parts, do be aware that there are two sets of gears and shafts, the normal 3:1 and the 5:1 used on the "Improved models."
Names?? Um, steering box cover?? You shouldn't have trouble finding one, it's nice if the shaft is a snug fit in the cover though, you don't want a lot of slop there.