I'm sure its done with some frequency but are there any special tools or methods for one man to install the engine back into the car? Pictures are worth a thousand words.
Patience, a good vocabulary helps, but it usually takes me about 30 mins, getting the u-joint lined up and then pulling the engine back in place is the hard part for me. I am 77 and not slim .
There sure is Ben! Especially for an old guy like me! An engine hoist! Or,...."cherry picker" or whatever other names you'd want to call it! You can pick up a 1,000 lb. capacity engine hoist at "Horrible Fright Tools" if you watch for a sale! Might be cheap Chinese junk for sure, but works for me! Best hundred bucks I ever spent,.... FWIW ......harold
....oh,....I should have added that the HF engine hoist actually folds up flat and stores pretty compactly against the wall in your shop or garage, as opposed to most others that don't fold and take up a lot of space,....again,.....FWIW,.....harold
Install photos, at this link, scroll down from June 3, 2017 4:08
If you have that Harbor Freight cherry picker, and spark plug lifters, easy to do one person.
The HF engine works for me too. No need to spend lots of money for one of these. Best so called cheap junk you'll ever buy!
My son helped me with the first engine swap but I did the second one by myself. This included raising the body to clear the pedals.
The biggest issue was aligning the universal. I finally used a heavy string to hold it up.
Btw I am 72 and a bit "over weight" - which means I am fat.
I took my time.
I agree with the harbor freight hoist.
When I was a teen I pulled the motor in a 41 Ford with a chain fall and the hoist is like night and day easier.
Fred is on the right track. It's easy for one man to install an engine. You get everything ready, call your kids and younger friends, crack a beer and wait for them to arrive. When they get there, tell them what to do.
Seriously, I'm nearly 70 and I've finally come to realize that in spite of the fact my brain works like it did in my 20's, the body just can't keep up. I now ask for help.
Well gents I have the lift and I have done this before but I was looking for details for a one man operation. in particular how to line up the universal
I did Tom F's engine for him. Tied the front of the driveshaft up with cord and a board across the frame and used dental floss to hold the universal straight out...had it perfectly "square" to the floor...made sure the engine tail piece was "square" as well. Jacked one rear wheel slightly up to allow driveshaft rotation and used a repro steven's universal tool to jiggle it in place. It can be done if you're patient.
The easiest way to fit the u joint, at least for me is to pack it with grease Use thick grease but no moly or graphite. Then take a piece of string to hold the spline approximately centered. Lower the engine so that the spline is lined up with the hole in the output shaft and pressing just lightly against the U joint. With one rear wheel jacked up, turn the wheel slowly until slips in. Sometimes you can get the spline almost lined up before you push the engine back and it will fall right in. If you use light string like kite string, even if you can't get it all out, it won't hurt anything if you leave it in. After you get the joint in, line up the rear mounts and put the bolts in from underneath with nuts on top. Grease the front mount bearing and slide the front of the crankcase into it and put on the cap. Place the wood blocks and the center bolts with the nuts toward the outside. I like to use a box wrench on the nut with masking tape to hold the nut in place and turn the bolt to tighten. Tighten snug but not tight. You don't want to bend the metal. The bolt really just holds the wood in place, but the wood keeps the ears from moving sideways.
Then install all the other parts such as manifolds, etc.
Thank you all
I have used a ratchet strap tied to the back axle and once the engine has cleared the pedals, etc. and the u-joint is close, the ratchet strap will hold the engine in place while you line up the U-joint with a wrench or piece of wire and then can ratchet it right into place. All done on my back under the car, of course! The grease method sounds very good as well.
I bought the $150 electric hoist at HB and chained it to a steel pipe strung across the rafters. It's easier to adjust than the cherrypicker in my opinion and you don't have to worry about the pressure bleeding off when your under the car lining up the U joint, Don.
I tried the one man install without any lift, took it in and out like shown in one of the books, never again! Slid it out on wood blocks set on top of frame rails, dropped it on it's nose without crank, tipped it up, spun it around and set it down, more like dropped it down the last bit. Re-installed about the same way.
Do it All the time slow and easy
Drunk and naked is the best plan. For added interest, leave the shop
door open and play opera music LOUDLY.
I have an old chain fall. First I remove extra weight from the engine such as starter, generator, head, manifolds. I leave all these "sub units" off until I reinstall the engine back in the frame.
When I install the engine I put the rear axle on a small rolling trolly like you can get at Harbor Freight for about $15. This allows me to line up the U joint easily.