can anyone tell me if coils should be buzzing all the time -- mine just buzz sometimes --- are mine out of adjustment ?? I have a 27 coupe .... thanks for any help .. Joe
They should buzz in order 1-2-4-3 when you turn the crank real slow.
To time the engine: Number one should just start buzzing 5* past Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. I want #! to buzz just a little after the piston starts back down. If U don't understand what I said, don't hesitate to ask questions. Don't try starting the car if a coil is buzzing all the time because you'll get an unpleasant backfire. Find where the coil is grounded.
Give me a call anytime.
Expanding on what Hal said. When running on battery one of the coils will buzz whenever the timer (roller, flapper, whatever) grounds the wire connected to that coil. However, it should not buzz all of the time as the engine rotates. The contact for each cylinder is a bit less than an eighth of a circle. When the roller is not on the contact, no coil should be buzzing.
You should also notice the buzzing move along the coils in the coilbox in the order Hal provided. Note that the coils in the coilbox are usually in 1-2-3-4 order. The proper firing order is provided by how you wire the timer end of the wires.
Coils do NOT buzz when the ignition switch is in the MAGneto position. A coil will buzz only when the ignition switch is in the BATtery position and even then they only buzz when the timer is in the position to cause one and only one coil to buzz. Once the engine starts then the buzzing goes away since the timer only connects to one coil for an instant in time to cause it to fire a cylinder.
Hope this helps.
Many thanks to all .. I now know how the system works ... sometimes when I turned the key to battery I would get a buzz before hitting the starter .... but the timer roller just happened to be lined up with a contact at that time .... I have one more question..... the car sat for 31 years before just recently being started... should I clean the contact points on the coils if so what is the process ..... thanks again .. Joe
If it's firing on all 4 I would leave it alone. No sense in potentially upsetting an adjustment that is so critical. If you MUST, you can fold a small piece of wet and dry sand paper of pretty fine grit, say 320-400, in half and carefully draw it between the points with them gently held together.
I would suggest 400-800! and just a light swipe! I would also suggest, considering the car has set so long to get a set of rebuilt coils from Coilman, as the capacitors in yours will fry soon. The rebuilt coils will be well worth it!
The shade tree mechanic method would be to take a $1 bill out of your pocket and drag it through the points. Learned this on distributor points.
Sees the rag paper has just enough grit to clean them up and remove any oil, grease or carbon on the point contacts.
I presume $100 bills would work as well, but I don't have any of those.
Thanks again for all the useful info ... Joe
Hey Joe, The Sacramento Valley Model T Ford Club meets on the last Wednesday of the month at Redeemer Covenant Church, 6800 Main Ave, Orangevale, Ca., at 7"30 PM. Come join us!!! Among others, Model T Expert Milt Webb attends every meeting. I have 2 hand crank coil testers and will be glad to check your coils.
Hmm, might try to make one of those meetings! About an hour & half drive each way though-in a modern car.
Dave, U R Welcome!!!
Hal ... Thanks for the invite .. I hope to come to the meeting on the 26th .... the coil test would be great ... Joe
Can't wait to meet you!