Haha It is July 1 and time to start the April thread.

I started putting a water pump on my T
It was donated by a fellow forum participant -- thank you - thank you.
It is a Texas T pump so I won't have to worry about leaks.

I added a new front pulley and got a longer fan belt.
I'll finish it tomorrow and go for a ride.

I adjusted the clearance on my #3 connecting rod cap. I struggled with Plastigage but gave up and went with the piece of newspaper to set the proper clearance. It worked like a champ!!

Started a speedster, working on pieceing together parts and the chasis when I get time. The radiator has been soaked/cleaned with the fins straightened. All ready for minor repair now. The wood frame that the parts were mounted on is removed and a new frame slid in.

Found six more Model T's in need of repair.

I loaded my Martin Parry wood cab into my 26 roadster pickup and hauled it to a buddy's cabinet shop to start the rebuild. I also had an armature tessted and turned for generator rebuild. I sandblasted a coil box for TT in prep for rebuiding coil box.
WHEW! Its been a good day. Now back to shop for more work.

One is a very early starter with the Ford installed felt starter seal and unique brushcap cover.

Ron, that's interesting, never run across anything like that myself.
Let's see, what did I do to my Ts today?? Umm, Left them to rest! Been punching out 200 leather valve disks for a player piano. Dang'd pipe I made the punch out of keeps needing to be sharpened. I wonder if I should have oil hardened it, or if pipe can be hardened.

Just changed the inner tube in a front tire (clincher). The rubber around the valve stem in old tube had let go.

Very easy - took less than 15 minutes. Kept the wheel on the car. Re-installed the tire with only my bare hands using the Royce Peterson recommended method of lowering the jack to hold the bottom of the tire against the floor which in-turn pushes the beads against the rim at that location. Took very little effort, especially considering I'm a thin and lanky fellow and not particularly strong.

Lightly dusted the tube with tire talc before installing it in the tire. Did not use any lube on the tire beads.

I put together this carburetor then when the storm was over I went to my moms to feed her animals, she went on a cruise. I went out to the shed where I put my T together and found some model cars I built as a kid. Probably 40 or so. I guess I need to restore them because they've had a rough life out there. I put so many together I bought a T frame and went full scale instead of 1:24.

The weird cover in Ron's post is unique to the year 1919 if you look in Bruce's book. Today I took all of my cracked 21 tires off my 26 roadster and put three New Garfield's on it and two slightly used All States on it. Maybe these won't rot before my eyes.

My son and I did a little body work on his '25 Roadster. As he sanded, I am rebuilding a front axle for another project for our club.
BTW-looking for roadster top irons for the 25. I will be in Hershey in October if anyone has a set for sale.

I am collecting some parts to make Disk Brakes on our Roadster pickup.

Toon

Did nothing on my own cars but spent a couple hours yesterday helping a fellow start a 23 Fordor family car that he wants to learn to drive. It wouldn't start - nasty dirty fuel filter and gas that smelled bad and had turned orange. OK, off for a new filter and some gas. Car started and ran just fine. Had the discussions about starting and pedal operation. He had driven the car once in only low pedal so needed some refresher. OK, out for a short drive with me at the wheel and his turn to come shortly. Car started pulling to the right so we found a parking lot and a flat right front tire. Oops, no tools or jack. He calls triple A to come out with air (the spare is a bit low), a jack and a Crescent wrench. AAA driver shows up after a while with jack and air but doesn't know what a Crescent wrench is. He does scrounge up a few tools though so we pull the tire off and get the spare aired up. Oops again, the valve stem doesn't line up. C#2vy rim. Crud, time to get a flatbed wrecker as it will be quicker than finding another spare. Meanwhile his wife is less than pleased because he's supposed to be home by now to take her to a matinee - ain't gonna happen. Over an hour later the flatbed shows up and the car gets towed home. We will be getting a spare clincher rim from Bill Bender and the car owner will get his first experience changing tires on a clincher rim. He's a nice guy but everything mechanical is new to him so it should be a chuckle.

Walked out to shop, looked sadly at my broken T turned around and walked back out of shop. (see my post last month what have you done)

Installed a new starting crank bushing, then spent a few hours cleaning/painting nuts & bolts.

Waiting on parts from Langs. Painting done.

Drove the '17 to the annual Richfield 4th of July car show and parked it under the shade of a tree.

Photos of my four year old niece with her Grandpa Johnson (my dad).

Finished painting hardware and inspection cover, and put them in the oven to bake.


Staked magnet screws.


Loaded stuff to go to Tulsa for a work session at Mike's.

I am a little late with this. I took my recently damaged/freshly repaired '26 Touring to the Eyes on Design Concours d'Elegance on Father's day. I did not win nor did I expect to do so. I knew I was outclassed before I parked the car. I'll post a photo of a class winner also. Not a T but eye candy for sure. The '18 Packard Twin Six was also among the "losing" cars so I felt I was in good company.

The Templar that was one of the cars that beat me into submission.

Started making new brake rods, for my swap to a large drum rear. They don't look like stock so I won't show them so the purists don't get mad. These are actually just a temporary set as I have something different going in later.

DROVE IT!! Twice for that matter. Mid afternoon to go to the hardware store & then after supper to run to the town 12 miles north to mow some friends yard. Then spent rest of the time cruising. Just got home a few minutes ago. Great day!

Installed new (rebuilt) Kingston carburetor.
Installed new rim bolts and nuts on all fours.
Awaiting delivery of a running board tool box for restoration and eventual installation.
Finished restoration of replacement front right wheel.
A very productive month thus far!

Tim, I you really want a drive, I will be your friend and my yard needs mowing!

I finally replaced the old grease-slinging fan hub, with a new one from Lang's with sealed bearings. The Fordor is on stands overnight with the oil drain plug out. I will take-up the clacking #3 rod bearing in the morning, then load up and head to Standish early afternoon.

I performed a heart transplant on my T.









I built the new engine according to the way Mike Bender and Bill Howell do it; that is, every component is aligned and balanced, from the crankshaft assembly through the tail end of the tranny. I did the balancing and aligning in Bill Howell's Intergalactic Car Barn, which was a treat! This engine should run much more smoothly than the ones I've had.

This one has an EE crank with new babbit by Joe Bell, aluminum pistons, Chevy valves, a Carnegie reground cam (I wanted a Stipe but couldn't afford it), advanced timing gear, Haibe Giant Power head milled 1/8", early intake manifold with Simmons carb, and a TW timer. In other words, just a stock T motor.

I hope to see you in Standish on Sat! Got all excited,changed the oil and loaded the car.Bud.

Spent the last week rebuilding the rear end and now getting ready to load Frankenford to take to Standish A and T car show.

Not too much to report on the t side but over the 4th I was honored to drive my mom's 1927 Little Marmon.

Work day at Mike Bender's in Tulsa. We spent a lot of time balancing transmission drums and the flywheel.










I gave up trying to find a decent reverse drum and went with a new one from Dave Nolting.
They're pricey, but they're beautiful.

That engine is going to be really smooth and good for 55mph all day long.

Hey Steve - what is that engine going in?

We'll see about that 55 mph. Even if it's smooth, I don't know if I want to make it work that hard.


1923 touring. Still on the agenda: AC brakes, a Ruckstell, and a top.

Hey Steve - what is that engine going in?

Oops, sorry about the echo.

Washed my '27 touring car. I also received a new-to-me steering column. Does anyone know for sure whether the column jacket was painted black or in the body color on the "improved car?" My original was mostly rust colored, the replacement is green.

MTFCI guidelines say the quadrant is black, so I guess that goes for the column too.

- Pounded the oil pan inspection cover flat & repainted,
- cleaned 17 cover bolts,
- re-tapped (cleaned the threads) 15 head bolt holes 7/16 UNC,
- tapped 17 backing plate holes 5/16 UNC,
- tapped water inlet holes 7/16 UNC,
- tapped trans bolt block holes 3/8 UNF,
- tapped top trans bracket holes 7/16 UNC,
- tapped manifold bolt holes 3/8 UNF,
- went to home improvement and hardware store, no Bottoming Tap, bought another 7/16 UNC, cut off end and made one.
- re-tapped head bolt holes w/ bottoming tap
- air blasted out 44 holes
= tapped out, taking a nap

The lower frame on my '14 windshield had rusted badly. During straightening the frame broke into 2 pieces, This gave me the opportunity to make a sleeve to drive into the halves. The sleeve is made of 22 gauge and was formed over a piece of 3/4" shaft. The 2 curves are where the most strain is so I allowed some material to bend up into them. Clamping the frame straight afterwards I could grind and solder the frame to the sleeve where it had rusted through. The rest of the windshield assembly was usable and there was even some fabric cushion under the brass channel as well as black paint.

Well done, Richard!

Added more parts to the new car,been too hot to get much doon}

Put the T up on beefy 12 tom jack stands. This gives me more mental peace because they have a wider base and stability.

I also put grooves in the wood that had to be used to jack the car up high. I am six foot and getting shorter but you can see I can work on the T without a lot of bending.

Robert-
I'm glad to see you did not put pinstriping on the "box" under the back seat, but where are your fore-doors?
: ^ )
Keith

I gave my 12 year old grandson his first lesson on driving a model T. I think he's "hooked".

Bob

high possibility of coming to grief by lifting an early car by the differential!

Don't keep tempting fate...

Keith, I have the doors, but I like the no door look. Eventually I might put them on for variety.

Scott, I wondered about putting pressure on the differential. In fact I was going to ask the forum about it but never did. Where should the lift be placed to raise the rear?
Bob

I picked up some steel tubing for the '14 windshield supports. Fortunately they had some 5/8" O.D. in a back corner. I have been lucky in this age of plastics to find steel, aluminum and brass stock when I need it.

I got the new to me 26 Touring's carb. all cleaned up and float adjusted...It started on the second put..(waiting on my new battery)...The old battery out of the 48 Woodie had enough unph in it to run the T...So I set it on a piece of wood in back floorboard area,hooked my jumper cables to the cable ends and she started right up...Took a few spins down to the mail box and back...It seems mighty highgeared...It hadn't run for about ten years...Took some videos just don't know how to post them ....Carl

Bob, here's the adapter I made for jacking up a rear axle.




It attaches on top of the jack with just two bolts. Since these pictures were taken I've glued on some pieces of inner tube for padding.

I would also avoid lifting (or towing) in the center of the front axle.


What I did today (yesterday, Monday): In the morning I took the keys out of the rear wheels on my stuck-in-gear runabout and greased the tapers so it would roll. In the afternoon when my friends the Moores were visiting from California, Johnnie helped me roll it into the shop.


Nobody got a Model T ride, but at least Solomon got his picture taken in the driver's seat. If all goes as planned, by the end of July all visitors will be guaranteed a ride if they want one.

After a month of driving with the Betsy's freshly rebuilt Ruckstell rear axle, I went for a drive and changed the fluid while warm to see how it looked.

Happily, the fluid looked clear and only a little darker, with no metallic particles or sheen.

Looks like the parts inside are happy operating together. This new refill will stay in the rear end for the forseeable future.

Steve, I sure hope that the problem on the roadster turns out to be something simple (and cheap) to fix.

I removed the Ford Special speedometer and cable from the '14 runabout. They were very recently ""rebuilt"" by a friend in Wichita KS and both failed. I seperately sent the cable to the expert I should have sent it to in the first place - Russ Furstnow. He repaired it and discovered the internal cable was dry! Told me to wait till 1 August to send the speedo head since he's in Whitefish. So I installed the cable and swivel.

Today's project was creating a pair of fancier top hold-down thumbscrews for Betsy, my 1924 cut-off touring car. I had seen an earlier thread showing an original thumb screw:





The current reproductions that come with the top clamps aren't even close.

So, I started searching around and found some 5/16 inch cast thumbscrews on Ebay that were closer. After some grinding on the ears, re-threading the shanks to 5/16-24, and cutting them to length, I got something that isn't NOS Ford, but more in the spirit of the original:








These will do until I can find some original Ford ones at Hershey.


By the way, the thumbscrews came in a box of 20, so I have 9 more pairs left if somebody wants some. $10.00 per pair in their raw state (you will have to do the grinding, re-threading, and cutting). The price includes USPS Priority flat rate shipping.



(Message edited by cudaman on July 12, 2017)

Bought a really nice 26 hood at a local swap meet. The man said the hood had been in his grandfathers garage since he was a boy. And it's black and straight. Bought more small parts from Langs for my 26 roadster. No work really, until Monday when I readjust neutral free again on the coupe.

Took my block and crank over to Jack S's for new babbitt mains. I am missing my T!

Respoked the rear wheels. Even with the press, it was an exercise in patience, but very rewarding to see them done.

After looking at a lot of different ideas, I fabricated an electric lamp conversion bracket for an oil tail lamp. This one clamps in place through the bottom hole and locks solidly in place. The good part is that it requires no modification of the oil lamp. I wanted the bulb socket facing rearward to make the most of 6v dual contact LED bulbs, which are very directional. Testing it with an incandescent bulb while waiting for the LEDs to arrive.

When I mentioned it clamps in place through the bottom hole, this is what I did. There is a cross piece that slips under two of the spring fingers. A stud goes through the holes and a tightens it, clamping it snugly in place. A ground wire will attach under the nut.

I put my body back on the frame. Then I will finish putting on the rest of the sheet metal.

Looks great John.

Got the top on- not bad for a first timer I guess...

Nice job, Tim!!wish I had propped irons, like yours!

As for me.... July was re-installing a rebuilt motor, rebuiding an NH carb,... oh.... and ap poi arenyly replacing my thrust washers this weekend!!

Nothing exciting today. I did treat myself to a new sheet of sandpaper. So much of a restoration is endless tedious stuff like these hinges. It was sunny and nice out for sanding this morning but the wind has come up and my shade is gone.
Enjoy you projects.
Rich

Seth in HSV rehashed the Model B carb on my '20 T Rajo fairground racer. Drove "Giac" around the neighborhood popping and sputtering, the hotter it gets the less coughing and sputtering it does, so the problem could be the gasket between the manifold and the head (I see puffs every now and then), so I plan some inspection and repair.

Since I finished the pickup bed, it was time to get to work on the car, it's been sitting too long. I flushed out the gas tank, installed a new tire and demountable rim, changed the oil and cleaned the oil screen and put 60 pounds in the tires. Last year I rebuilt the NH carb, but it's still sitting on the bench. A few months ago I splurged and ordered a Stromberg OF from Stan. That will go on when it's ready. All in all it was a good day in the garage.

Rebuilding and reballing

I towed Carl our 11 touring 1300 miles to Whitefish Mt

Thanks Steve. Black it will be!

Cleaned out all 4000 holes in the radiator with a pipe cleaner. Should run a little cooler now.

The 6 volt LED tail/stop bulbs came in today. So I tested them in the oil lamp conversion fixtures I made a few days ago. Wow, I'm really impressed with how bright it is. And the other great thing is the minimal current draw. The brighter stop circuit only pulls .06 milliamps.

I spent the day in Mike Bender's shop in Tulsa. We installed valves, rods, pistons, oil pan, and hogshead. Tomorrow I'll drive the gas hog Suburban, we'll finish up, and I'll bring the engine home.

Are you telling us that "Mr. Thrifty" coughed up the bucks for a Scat crank?

Believe it or not, yes. I was curious about how much more material is in it than the skinny original, so Mike weighed them. The stock crank is a little over 16 pounds, and the Scat is a little over 31. This car may develop some problems (they all do) but a busted crank is unlikely to be one of them. I intend to do some driving.

Steve, did you have a chance to do any further checking on the issue with the roadster?

If indeed the triple gears are seized on their pins, you might want to have Mike ream the triple gear bushings for the touring an extra thousandth or two above his normal tolerance.

Mowed 2.5 acres of heavy brush with the T/IHC mower conversion - picked up a flat on driver's side front in the process. Need to replace tube (18" motorcycle).

I just finished up this 1915 coil box as soon as I get the brass top coils done it will be for sale

Mark, no, I haven't looked at it yet. Busy with other stuff. Today I went to Tulsa to pick up my new engine.

Know what happens when old brake hoses go bad? No, they don't leak. They deteriorate on the inside and clog. So when you let up on the pedal the clog keeps pressure on the shoes or pads. The brakes stay on.


That burns up your pads, calipers, and rotor...


...which calls for a lot of new parts, including a new hose, of course.



Eventually I made it to Mike's and picked up the new engine. I hope I can get it back in the car this month.

Not as exciting as Mr. Jelf's adventure, I finished (hopefully) building my brake rods. Hopefully I will get them on and get to finally finishing the rear axle swap this weekend and go for a test drive.

Looks good, Steve!

When you get home and settled, if the repair shop didn't already do it, be sure to replace the remaining brake hoses on that car, including the one to the rear axle. The others probably are close to having the same problem.

Yep, new hoses are on my agenda.

Got some body mock up done as well as initial cleaning of my switch and a key sourced.

Steve, reckon that old gas hog Chevy will do a bit better now? Dave

Chad, I like your style. Making due with what we have. I work in a ten by sixteen shed that I built.
I like your mock-ups. True. Looking good!
Steve, that old Chevrolet will like what you did until the other side needs it too. They're tough like a T. Sorry, but true. :-)
July: The 18 Runabout.
Battery horn (incorrect) re-installed and working. Waa, Waa. :-)
Electric starting and lighting. More to do but both working good. Marrying the late to the earlier.
Running again. Golly, he runs good.
Title transfer and insurance thru my bank with Hagerty. Feels damn good! $198 a year, full coverage. Eh, not bad.
Oil lighting. Wicks and oil NOW on all three lamps. Neato! Thanks Ava! The eldest Grandchild. She's nine and a good T driver already.
Holder upper oak block for the left side floorboard on the left sill.
The sill had been rounded down from the original floorboard which I do not have.
Lubed front spring and a sluggish shackle.
Painted correct seat springs yester and today.
About tipped his truck (package car) over when he pulled into the yard with my springs from excitement. No, I didn't.
Fan belt semi shredded and fell off (resurrected canvas belt). No issues really.
Pending. Tomorrow maybe. Incorrect serpentine belt coming.
To do this month:
Straighten the steering gear rod (dare not make mistakes on nomenclature - the drag link) as it's bent a little bit. :-/ :-)
It is mentioned in threads about front wheel shimmy events along with sticky front end parts.
Steering bracket re-bush to do also. A sloppy spot in the front end.
Beat that little Ford up some more and give it some road time. He's a tough little Tin Cup.
Enjoy some Toodling some more. Gosh, I've gone cautious over the last 20 years. Thank you for that, MTFCA! :-)
Just a little Ford model T that's coming alive for the road after a LONG slumber and much work from a few people...

Today I unloaded the "new" 1923 engine I brought home Wednesday.


Mike found something I had missed. The bottom end of my home made AC brake pedal was interfering with the low pedal linkage.So today I worked over the pedal so it will miss the linkage.

Betsy has one of the vendor pedals and it fit fine with no interference.

Yes, but I paid $5 for mine and spent maybe $20 adapting it. I'd rather spend the extra $100+ on something I can't do myself.

Towed the old girl home after getting stuck in the rain and the coils got wet. Had to run a mile to grab my Mustang and a chain.

Steve, not criticizing your approach, just showing the picture so that you could see the shape of the lower arm.

That's why I had to change it. I made it using a picture, and didn't have any measurements to follow.

Didn't exactly get as much done as I wanted, as a afternoon nap sounded more pleasing, but I started the disassembly to remove the hogshead.

The reason being that the slow speed notch is very loose on the shaft, and I am afraid of loosing the low band apply out on the road. I am sure the pin has to be worn pretty good (if not close to shearing off) judging by the play.

It will also be a good time to weld up the very worn hole on the low pedal for the clutch clevis adjuster.

Rebushed and honed to fit my spindles.

I went to visit my dad and stopped in the garage to pay a visit to "Old Lizzie." Time to start thinking about a little freshening up (in other words-it needs everything) for this one. The car is his 1926 Fordor which he bought in bushel baskets in 1952. Though he sold it when he went to college he bought the car back in 1969 and it has been a beloved member of the family ever since.

Just Finished up the coil box for my 1912

Beautiful coil box!

Yesterday I started hand-sanding the new-to-me steering column for my '27. The goal is to have it in paint by August 1. We shall see - my garage isn't air conditioned and the heat index for today is 106.

Take it easy - paint doesn't stick well to sweat drops!

I made one of these for my gas light. I'm sure there is a proper name for it.



Wet sanding reveals slight imperfections. Among those are the drawing marks left during fabrication.



These Corcoran buckets have different back configurations but are other wise the same.



Rich

During the home ride of the International model T concentration we had a accident with the 1922 Woody.
Some repair was needed.

Andre
Belgium

I just finished the disk Brakes of our 1925
Toon

Yesterday, I removed the hogs head, and the low pedal. First time I have removed a hogshead in the car. Some choice words and a little patience and I managed to get it out. I think I will remove the exhaust manifold when I put it back on as I have a accessory one with much better threads that is straight. That seemed to be the biggest hang up removing the hogs head, the outlet of the manifold.




I had the common issue of a worn hole in the slow speed connection.




So a quick clean up, a little welding, some filing and drilling, got me back to a standard size. I think i am going to run a bronze bushing here, so I'll actually drill the hole a little bigger.



(Message edited by Chad_Marchees on July 26, 2017)

Small stuff.


I set the newly painted starter out in the sun to bake...


...and painted hardware...


...and installed the nickels.

Did some engine assembly, including 3 nickels.
Vern

Many moons ago on a Catalina Island tour, the speedster developed a severe axle tramp on an unpaved road. When we returned home I install tubular shock from a VW but I never felt happy about the solution. Recent I found a set of modern friction shocks on eBay and today I installed them....





Another job off the list!

Saturday I helped a fellow club member with a request of his, seems his neighbor is a film maker and his current film needed 2 Model T's....I needed to get mine road worthy. Frist on Friday I needed to fix the garage door so I could get it out and then on Saturday morning, my first thing was to drain the old gas. The pet cock was stuck open, so I then removed the gas cap to find that there was no gas to drain. I then emptied the 5-gallon gas can of new gas to find after about half way that the needle was stuck open and it was pissing gas out on the drive way. I shut it off with the petcock at the carb and then washed the DW down. I crawled under to remove the bowl and it all went fine, no gasket damage and the needle dropped to the ground and I put it all back together and replaced the bowl. Turned the gas on and no leaks. I gave it 5 or 6 pulls of the crank and got a cough, then hit the starter and she took off. I'm a little upset with Russ Potter - it's one of his carbs and I put it on the car in 94' and this is the first trouble I've had with it. 23 years and now this.....Took the car to coffee and then in front of the camera. My next thing is I really need to replace the old headlight wiring and the horn one's too. Might have to place an order next week.

I finished up installing my oversize pin to cure the low speed pedal hole wear, and installed the new low speed notch, and all three new pedal cams. Managed to get it painted before I lost the daylight, so this should be ready to install in a couple days when I can get back to it.

Sold one and bought another one so this makes my 18th T in my life with newest my 5th TTs.
Burger would be proud old girl held up at 80mph
Well on the trailer heehee

Replaced the band linings, adjusted pedals, etc. Pulled off rear wheels to strip and paint. Last few days working on repainting my interior on 66 mustang. I don't like black interiors and the orig finish was freckled with rust anyway.

Got the 26 moved into the big garage. So far my daughter is the only one who has driven it. Ha!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JsdOFGDzHU&feature=youtu.be

Got it in the garage.

Today was pretty busy, bolted on the rear tires. I found a rivet missing from a band lining, I have no idea if its in the pan somewhere or if the previous person left it out. Then I cleaned up the trans pan, and prepared myself for bolting the hogs head back on. This is not a job I wish on anyone. First time I did it and while it wasn't awful, I hopefully will not have to pull it for a long time.

The whole job is an exercise in patients, and luckily for me I did it over a weeks time. The mess of the silicone was making my OCD kick in, and trying to get silicone in the corner of the block, pan and hogshead, where the carb is also occupying is another one of those patient things.

Oh, I almost forgot, I cleaned out the oil funnel, it was completely plugged, so good for me on adding the outside oil line. I used a piece of TIG welding wire and finally was able to push it hopefully all the way through (I did not have the lower pan off, but it swallowed almost the whole length of the TIG wire so I should be good). I put the pedals back in and roughly adjusted the band and clutch link.

That's enough for tonight, tomorrow I final tighten up the hogs head once the silicone sets up. Still have to squeeze a gasket on the fourth main now that I broke that seal getting things apart.

Took the War Wagon out to Camp Shelby, MS last weekend for a 100th anniversary event. This weekend we were at Ft. Gordon in Augusta, GA for an event. That's my 26 year old son doing the driving.

So many great things going on in this thread! I have much to say about all of them but I type too much as it is.
Thanks for starting this month's version Fred!
August is coming. Who's gonna start it?

I had ordered a couple transmission screens from Bob's for the 18 Runabout and the 25 TT derelict.
Got 'em and installed one in the 18 a few days ago.
Too dumb to take a pic but wowee! After only 10-15 miles or so, the darned screen holes were PLUGGED and the magnet was chock full!
I think this 23 engine in the 18 is even dirtier than the 19 engine in the 24 Crappy Runabout here. I need to check his screen too.
Chock full of "mud". I had changed the oil last fall before the illustrious 5-7 miles and then redoing the rear axle.
I had cleaned/blown out the plugged oil line last fall also before starting it (when resetting the cam timing to correct)
and I think I need to check it again.
The 18's engine is up for some love this winter. It needs it. Bad. He's a rattler so I'm really nice to him.
One of my daughters likes the rattle...
But he freely gives me what I need now and I'll give him the attention he needs later.
With all that said, testing/driving a one hundred year old automobile around? Priceless.
Like the fireworks at Waterama earlier tonight, when driving this 18, I'm an open mouthed/grinning little boy.
:-)

Put a hood on my 26 rpu and changed the carb for a fresh rebuilt one and changed the hood. That's
Gonna be About all for this month..

When I purchased my 1915 Runabout the wheels needed work so I decided to rebuild four entirely new wheels and swap out the ones with white tires.

Just finished the rear wheels. Used nice original 1915 Ford hubs, new Johnson Wood Wheels, new rims, flaps, tubes and Firestone NON SKID tires with new valve stem hardware.

Learned a lot about mounting clincher tires and it is not as difficult as I envisioned.

Nice job, Ron !!!

Fitted the starting crank...


...installed the starter...


...and enjoyed a nice visit by Kevin and Wendy Weeds who are visiting the USA from New Zealand.

I added Logo-Lites LED turn signals to my 20 Roadster. I have them on my 23 touring and 26 coupe and feel safer in traffic. I've been driving the roadster to work all week after giving the 23 a workout in Flatfish, Montana last week.

I found out exactly how many kids can fit in a 1911 model t touring.

After days of saying unkind things while putting the hogs head together and trying to get the reverse band on the shaft and not having enough thread to get the washer and nut on, I finally noticed the pedal shaft wasn't pushed all the way in.
Now I'm looking for my transmission covers, I have 2 or 3 and the gremlins have spirited them away.

An interesting read !
Plenty of busy folk out there.

Adrian, for me it is motivation. Seeing what others are doing makes me get away from this Box and keyboard on my desk and go do some work.


Finishing out the month, installed the new brake rods I made for the '26-7 rear install in my '25. Put the trans cover back on before something got dropped in (even though I had a rag over the hole--but you know, Murphy's Law). Pulled the switch panel to fiddle with that, installed a new fender iron clamp to the front fender, as the original one was toast and rattling around.

Tomorrows plan is to get the bendix and cover installed and, and outside oil line reattached. I think I will cobble the exhaust back together for the moment. Then maybe I can fire it back up, make some adjustments and go for a ride.

I made a batch of 12 coils of which 4 was for my red Pick-Up truck.



Made in july, but due to travel to Italy just tested today - as always - what a difference!