I'm rebuilding my lower steering bracket. The bushing was worn, and there was a lot of play in the steering. I have not found any documents on the assembly, so I took it apart, and figured I would reassembly as I found it. As I understand it, there should be a felt, when I took it apart there was none. Does anyone have an assembly drawing?
The felt is huge, how does it fit? And where does it fit? My thought, is slip it onto the steering column, then assembly the rest of the assembly, then pack the felt into the housing to keep the grease from oozing out.
There's been a lot of back and forth on this matter. Some folks claim there wasn't any felt in there and the recess is just for grease reservoir. I took my steering bracket off of what I believe is an unmolested '26 Tudor and found remnants of a felt seal in there. So I don't know what the deal is. So I just cut the felt seal the vendors sell with a razor , worked lots of grease into it, and installed it in the bracket, then took a tapered punch and tried to form it a little better. Also took a piece of electrical tape and covered the key-way slot so it wouldn't cut the felt seal when installing the steering column shaft. That being said, I still don't know if it belongs in there or not. I've never seen any factory documentation one way or the other.
I was thinking about where the felt might go, do to its size. I wonder if if should be placed between the bushing and the pitman arm, to help control dirt.
I put one at the top of the bracket to keep dirt and water from falling in and one below to keep dirt and water from blowing in from the road. I didn't try to make them go inside the bracket. The upper one is wide so the throttle and timer rods kind of hold it in place. The lower one is sandwiched in by the pitman arm.
Jason, I'd think if put it below it might just trap grit and moisture in the bushing where you don't want it. If anything put it on top. The ones I installed in the recessed slot push grease out both, top and bottom. But, like I said; I'm sure it should be there at all. Wish there was a definitive answer in Ford literature someplace.
TT's (not sure what years) did not have a felt but did have a small metal cap mounted on the shaft on the top to keep dirt from working down into the bushing. I am posting this more for the information suggested on putting a felt on the top side.
Well it between the pitman arm and the bracket for now. It can be cut out easily needed.
Next question, after getting it all back together the spark lever, is very loose, it appears to be off the groved backer plate. When I fully retard it, and I let go of the lever it advances a bit. Any ideas how to tweet the rod down a bit?
Jason, Might just need a new spring on the spark rod. There is one in there isn't there?
There is a spring, feels tight.
Might have to give the quadrant a few gentle taps on the underside to get it in the correct place. I noticed on one of the Improved Car steering columns I rebuilt this spring that one of the previous custodians of the car had bent the throttle and spark rod arms down some. When straightened, they didn't contact the quadrant well at all. So, I gently tapped the underside of the quadrant at various spots until the tension was correct. Might also want to make sure the throttle/spark arms are at a 90 degree angle first. Good luck!
One of the jillions of aftermarket accessories is this. If you don't want to spend that much you can make it.
There is no felt in 1926-7.
Steve, thanks, interesting little device.
I did like Kevin says, and slightly bent the quadrant towards the spark rod to get good contact after rebuilding the steering column. It works fine now.
I was thinking about doing such. It sat perfectly before replacing the bushing. I vaguely recall I might have had this issue when I put the car back together, so maybe with some drive time, it will vibrate back into position. So I decided for the next month, I will not hand start the motor, and hold the lever up when using the starter.
I need to order a few other parts anyways. I found my commentator linkage rod is worn at the cotter pin location and only one side of the hole is still there.