Im going to change the rear end lube in my 26, What do you guys use to suck out the old stuff? Also,What kind of grease fitting is this and is there a grease gun or adapter available for it?
That's an Alemite fitting. I don't know that it is original to the car, but if you want to use it, Restoration Supply Company sells an adaptor for your modern grease gun. As an alternative, the Alemite should just thread out easily (1/8" or 1/4" pipe thread) and you could replace it with whatever type of grease fitting that you desire.
That grease fitting has been covered on the forum. However I couldn't find the post. I did find this https://saeproducts.com/pin-type-grease-fittings.html There probably is a gun to fit this somewhere as the fitting is listed. Now that you know what is is a search on the internet for pin type grease gun.
I used the brake bleeder attachment on my Mityvac - I had to fill and dump the bleeder bottle around ten times.
If its not original to the car then I may just replace them with cups. They are on the rear end also.
The grease fitting looks like an Alemite twist 'n lock. Here is a picture of a grease gun that fits it:
With the exception of Model Ts, by the late teens and well into the 1930s many if not a majority of U.S. manufactured automobiles were equipped with Alemite grease fittings from the factory b including Model As and Ford V8s.
Alemite grease guns are not hard to find, at least in my neck of the woods. I regularly see them at estate sales and swap meets and in antique shops.
An oil suction gun is the least costly oil remover. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-2359-Oil-Suction-Gun/dp/B00FJT0304
The Alemite twist lock fitting dates from later than the Model T era. A grease cup would be correct. You can also tap the inside of a grease cup and hide a zerk in there.
Mark, I used your idea using my vacuum brake bleeder, It worked great, Now to clean the lines back up! Steve, Im going to tap some grease cup like you mentioned. Thanks everybody.
The flange in that picture is rotated 90 degrees from it proper position- its on the side rather than the top correct? with it that way the fitting does not line up with the hole in the torque tube ball and no grease will get to the u joint unless someone drilled an extra hole in the ball to pass grease into the u joint.
Dan is right - it should be easy enough to remove the bolts and rotate the ball cover so that the fitting faces up. Remember, the two top bolts should have castle nuts with cotter pins, and the two lower bolts should have their heads safety wired to each other.
It looks like the fitting has been clocked to the side for a long time, I suppose it's possible (but unlikely) that there is enough clearance between the ball and cover to allow some grease to work its way over to the U-joint hole.
Here is one case where you hope that enough engine/transmission oil is leaking back far enough to keep the U-joint lubricated!
I noticed that also, I will be turning to its right place very soon. It kinda makes me wonder if the U joint and driveshaft bushing ever got and grease. I will know more when I take it apart.
This is what I use
Drain out the old oil AFTER you get the rear end out. No big deal. I was going to post a point on the location of the grease fitting, but Dan beat me to it.