Rebuilding coil box for 23 TT. The bottom wood piece from Langs seems to have the holes in the wrong place. Maybe I am doing something wrong.
This is the right coil box. the one hole is 1/2 hole off so rivet wont fit right.
I had the same exact problem with that kit- I exchanged it for the Fun Projects kit.
(Message edited by Antique_iron on July 10, 2017)
I checked another bottom I have and metal contacts are the same. I have not drilled holes for screws yet but its a little dirty to send back.
I know somes of these repo parts are a joke
I had same issue last set coil box wood
I filled the holes and redrilled the contacts
But first try flipping you contact end for end
I second that get fun prodjects you wont be sorry
Bob I tried flipping end for end. I will epoxy the holes and drill my own. 1st bad part from vendor. Better to have no holes. Any other problems with this kit? I did have to carve out some wood so contacts fit on front wood piece.
You will have trouble with the wood kit - it's just a matter of time until it starts. Take the loss and buy the plastic kit as mentioned and you will not have further trouble.
I agree with others that the FP kit is the way to go. That aside, if you decide to keep this be aware that some black paints contain ingredients that can lead to carbon tracking, so i would avoid that. If you want to protect the wood from corroding, i would recommend a Marine spar varnish.
Why is anybody still using wood?
I second Tim Rogers post...get the Fun Project kit and fuggedabout any problems! Very easy to install, less than an hour.
"Why is anybody still using wood?"
Hehe, cuz it's there and we're cheap. :-)
I nabbed a wood kit out of a later box for my 18. The fit was perfect (a brand new repro kit from 30 years ago or so).
Works great but yes, I know I need to replace it with a FP kit. If I get caught in the rain, I'm prob'ly sunk.
Hah! The friend with the Overland and a TT didn't even acknowledge I said anything when I suggested a FP kit for his TT which is in DIRE NEED of replacement!
He's deaf as a stump so maybe he didn't hear me say I'd help him (read "do it for him").
Dallas, keep us updated. :-)
Why not use wood, do we have to modify everything?
The reason the pre '14 wood boxes have little trouble is because the wood is SOLID WOOD!
I bought a 1913 KW coil box at a swap meet a couple of years ago. Over half of it was missing. I had so much fun with this coil box gathering all the needed parts to make it whole again. All the contacts, porcelains, switch, one coil and center divider were missing. I spent a week on it, but make it whole again. Not only that, but I put it on my car, and it worked. I didn't refinish it either. I used it for about a year or more, and sold it to a younger member who was tickled to have it. I have another that I restored several years ago that I'll put on the car this time.
Andy, the answer is no. We don't have to modify everything. But everybody modifies something. Even the purest of the originalists make some modifications, from bronze thrust washers to air filters to "natural" wheels. Some even resort to dropped axles and Mercury bodies. In the case of coil boxes, the Regan modification is one that makes sense to a lot of folks who are otherwise at the pure end of the spectrum.
You got me there Steve, that particular T is "lightly" modified. But I do have a 14 runabout that can be stock in the time it takes to swap out the rearend.
This box is going in a 23 closed Martin Parry cab TT. Not that I am cheap but It is hardwood and it shouldnt get too wet. I may regret it later but for now I can get it running. The FP kit only takes an hour to install so I can do it later if needed. I filled the holes and re-drilled them. Soldered a new wire for ground. Installing the four screws that hold it to metal box is all I have left. I will be installing FP kit in my roadster soon. Lesson learned! The response to questions on this forum is great. Thanks one and all.
Here's a good write up on the one at Piquette. http://www.singingwheels.com/ford-piquette-plant-museum.html
Whoops. Not sure how I managed this. I was adding to a classified post. Sorry...
Dallas said: "The response to questions on this forum is great."
Peter, it gave me a very nice 5 minute diversion and after all this is a truck/trucking thread. :-)
You do have around a half hour or so to edit a post. I right click my name, click "user profile" on my profile page, wait a few moments and then I can edit a fresh post. Piece of cake but I'm still glad you messed up. :-)
I can't wait to see the things you find to do with your new truck, Dallas!
There were three or four makers of Ford parts and some times they were a little different. Here are two Ford brass coil contact strips that are very different.
Dallas, if you want to waterproof the wood you can do what I just did on the '22 CenterDoor. I took 1 pump of West Epoxy and mixed it with a bit of acetone to thin it out. Simply coat the wood completely, let cure and reassemble. Walla, no worries about the wood ever soaking up water. Also eliminates carbon tracking.
All the contacts in the Ford coil box are Phosphor Bronze.
Beware of copper plated steel contacts being sold by some Model T parts suppliers. They do not have the springy capabilities of Phosphor Bronze and when the copper plate wears off they will corrode and not make good contact with the coils.
Thanks Ron. I used the original contacts.