U-joint removal from ball

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: U-joint removal from ball
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 02:27 pm:

I'm dismantling my rear end to replace the thrust washers with new. A couple questions on my U-jount ..
I have about 1/16" OR less outside-to outside movement on my U-joint connections, but virtually no slop when attempting to twist clockwise or counter-clockwise to the shaft. Maybe knuckle is OK?

Otherwise... how do I get the bigger out of the drive-shaft end ball? The pin is out, and the driveshaft is out of the tube. The knuckle doesn't want to fit through the ball opening. Everything I read, says to just pull it out after knocking the pin out (came out quite easily). The only thing I can think of is to try and drill the 4 rivets that hold the knuckle together.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Sims--Reed City,Mich. on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 03:59 pm:

Do not drill anything, it will not help. It will come out if you get it lined up correctly. If all else fails and it will not come out, you might take a rotary file to the edge of the bell opening to give a little more clearance.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Vern (Vieux Carre) on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 08:42 pm:

Person 1 pulls on it with a constant pressure while person 2 taps on it with a hammer (about the same technique as with some front wheel drive CV joints.)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Sunday, July 16, 2017 - 09:52 pm:

I got it out... used a largish punch through the grease hole and positioned it where it went through the furthest, and gave it a couple whops wish a 3 lb maul. Once it was out, I could see the problem... it apparently had a loose rivet on the assembly, so the out a weld bead on the u-joint frame. I had a spare, but this one is actually much better. I ground enough of the high split a of the weld down, so it should fit, until I source another.

I know i should replace it now, but this rebuild is rapidly getting out of budget, after putting in a rebuilt engine. :-(


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Monday, July 17, 2017 - 09:11 am:

I would still replace it. There appears to be some wear in the trunions.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, July 17, 2017 - 09:17 am:

Definately will ... Hoping to get it back on the road with minimal cost ... still need to source pinion and ring gears, and a couple more bushings. I'd at least like to get those installed. Now that I've done it once, dropping the rear end down to get to the U-joint for replacement in the future wouldn't be too bad.

That weld looks better than anything I can do, yet! LOL


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Monday, July 17, 2017 - 06:04 pm:

Looks like a decent u-joint. Why not tighten the rivets, weld the other side and use it. It certainly is not NOS but neither is your car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield; Oak Park MI on Monday, July 17, 2017 - 06:33 pm:

Yeah... it would be nice to put a decent weld on the other side, so it's 1/2 way balanced. I'm inquiring about a used one in the classifieds, but no answer, as yet. It would make a better 'keeper for the toolbox, than the one that's there.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry & Sharon Miller, Westminster, CO on Monday, July 17, 2017 - 09:19 pm:

Dave Huson usually has several around. Send him a PM and see what he has to say.

Good Luck,
Terry Miller


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