Cleaned the strainer last evening and it was packed with rust so it looks like I have to remove the tank.
I figure this is the source of my engine's poor running at times: sometimes I have to continually mess with the mixture to keep it running; other times it runs OK.
I am going to try cleaning and sealing the tank.
I understand they are a bear to R&R. Best of luck and post photos of your process
My '27 touring was acting like that for a long time. Finally, on a tour in 04/2016 it stalled and I had to get it towed. The little filter in the sediment bulb was not too clogged but when I removed the bulb and pipe, I found that the gas tank was completely clogged with what appeared to be heavy grease along with rubber and rust particles. I cleared this mess out and the engine has been running fine since then. I'm really glad I didn't have to R&R the tank.
I would rather do just about anything before I tried to remove the tank again.
I purchased a 1/2 inch PVC male adapter, pipe, a valve and an elbow. Put the male adapter in the tank, cut about two inches off the pipe and glued between the adapter and the valve. Cut another two inches and glued into the valve. The elbow and rest of the pipe was just slipped together. Turn the valve off, fill the tank with 10 gallons of vinegar. Let it sit for a week. Drain the vinegar back into the containers.
Vinegar has worked really well for me to get rid of the rust.
If it's tough I had better read about it before I get into a hole which is too deep !
When I removed the screen it was completely clogged. I let the gas flow into a can with white filter paper while I rocked the Car to stir things up, and did not get much more. The flow was a lot more than I expected too.
I just bought this car about 6 weeks ago and have only now started trying to sort this out after driving it 3-4 times. Thanks for the advice Everyone!
I recently acquired a 26 Tudor and my line kept getting plugged with rust... It had an inline paper filter (I have since removed the paper filter). The rust would either clog the filter or the tank outlet (tons of rust). Anyway, I flushed and flushed the tank. I then applied a Massie Ferguson sediment bulb from Tractor Supply. I did this because I wanted to monitor the rust in the bulb. This TSC MF bulb also has a large surface area on the screen, so in my opinion, less likely to clog up. The tank outlet has clogged twice since this addition, but the screen has stayed clean, even with a bunch of rust in the bottom of the bulb. I have enlarged the inlet into the bulb so rust can freely make it from the tank to the bottom of the bulb itself. I've put couple hundred miles on the car since I last cleaned out the tank outlet, and only a small amount of rust re-entered the bulb since then. My most recent clean out technique was just a brief shot of air up the fuel line (at the bulb outlet), which must have stirred up some rust at the tank outlet. I let the gas run until it was clear (lot's of chunks came out). Took it for a drive and a little more rust found its way to the bulb.
Then yesterday I dumped that rust from the bulb and drove another 100 miles. There was very little rust in the bulb after that ride. I also have a rubber fuel line from the sediment bulb to the carb for easy cleaning and fuel flow assessment. It now has a great flow down at the carb, no restriction. Not to say I won't have a problem again, but so far so good. If the glass bulb continues to stay clean, I plan on putting a correct bulb on in the future.
Its not that bad! I dropped the gas tank in my '26 Touring, tumbled the rust out it, and re-coated with a POR 15 product. Also put a nice new coat of paint on it. Getting the tank out isn't nearly as bad as getting it back in. I found if I took the dash out it made the installation much easier.
Now I drive down the road and the fuel screen stays clean as a whistle and fuel flow is excellent.
I had the same issue with my 26 rpu and lucked up and about a perfect tank. No such issues since. I have sealed Model A tanks with no issue's but 10 times the work to remove and clean but sealer works great. Just my experiences.
I had the same issue with my '27 Touring car. It is my theory that the Ford assembly line started with the gas tank and built the car around it. I wound up with the steering column, the instrument cluster, the choke rod and some wiring either moved or removed. It's not a job that requires genius - just patience.
Mine is a 27, but it's a depot hack, so fank uner the drivers seat and I'm pulling it out this morning due to rust in the line and carb issues. I'll empty it and put a few feet of chain links in it and roll it around, then the ospho or vinegar to convert or stop the rust. I've used tank sealer in the past and didn't think POR 15 was gas resistant, so I'll probably not seal it with anything as it isn't leaking, just rusty. Then only ethynol free gas from then on. The gas line is rubber, now, so I'll install new metal one and bend to fit while I'm at it. Glass bowl under tank and shutoff at carb