So this year I scored a very nice (or at least I thought so) pile of parts that I have decided to build a speedster out of. It seems somebody bought a 1927 T and after driving it around for a year or so decided to build a hot rod. They removed the body (including steering and radiator) along with the frame constructing a 2X4 frame in its place to retain the mobility of a rolling chassis. As I am working on the car in a small single axle trailer (no garage) I am keeping the design simple and similar to my uncle Larry's speedster although less of a cowl and no windshield. Performance upgrades will involve an oil pump, Sherman head, cam, larger carb/intake, and headers/pipe. Driveline upgrades will involve a shortened wheelbase with suicide front end and a warford (still looking). Cosmetic upgrades will include a Whippet radiator, Auburn headlights, Hudsun quadrant, unknown aluminum and rubber wheel, different insurementation/switch and cycle fenders. Color plan is rustoleum Sail blue body, rustoleum almond chassis/engine, and natural leather seats. For entertainment purposes this is the rough sketch, it may be fun to see how far off the build actually is from this initial sketch.
Got any idea how tall a kick-up you're gonna have?
My racer has springs mounted suicide front and back. I thought about lowering a little further using drop axles and kick-up, but so many things would have to change.
good height. I like the simplicity of the design. My car has a suicide front end and back dropped almost 6 inches which is a little too low(I didn't build it). I haven't come across the pics from the SCVMTFC endurance run pic of the speedster with the wooden body in my picture collection. I want to say it was mohogany though if I remember right
First thing I've done is mount the frame where I want it (approx 4 inches pan clearance). Next will be to do the front drop which I will be doing like this.
Once I have the front in place I can raise the spring eyes to determine where to mount the rear perches in the front. Once the front is done I level the frame to determine the rear drop. I'm guessing 7 inches for a rear Z. At this point I can cut the driveline and machine the shaft. The fuel tank will mount on top of the frame and the body will terminate at the bottom of the Z. I should have enough drop to the carb that I can run gravity without the need for a hand pump. If everything sits a little high I can swap out reversed eye springs, chevy spindles, or put a bend in the rear spring.
Due to my working conditions things will be progressing different than normal.
As she sits right now . . .
Work is progressing.
When I tore down the rear end I found a broken axle gear and sub standard lock wire to say the least.