'They' said "The Verdict is Finally In!"
Good luck Marv trying to prove it to the earth is flat and the roofing tar bunch!!Bud.
Amongst other things the article states-
"You aren't going to hurt your engine if you skip the Mobil 1, one of the best-known synthetics. But you aren't going to put yourself in the poorhouse if you flip for the synthetic, either"
Synthetic oil is good for newer cars with clean engines and with oil pumps and full flow filters. The newer engines also have no band lint floating around in the oil, and so you can go much longer between changes.
However, in a Model T you need to change the oil often because it doesn't have a full flow filter and it has band lint floating in it.
Most of us don't drive the T every day for commute and all other shopping and vacationing trips at very high speeds the way modern cars are driven.
All the oils on the market today are superior to the oils made in the days when Model T's were driven.
It all comes down to this, we can spend more for oil which we still have to change often or we can use better than the oil made in the Model T days and save money.
This subject has been discussed thoroughly in the past and it all boils down to user preference.
I am with Tim and Norman, I use Mobil 0 (recommended by the manufacturer) in my 2015. I use Rotella 10W-40 in all my Model Ts. I know some guys say that's a waste of money because any oil today, even the cheapest is way better than anything available "back in the day". I started using Rotella when I was an OTR truck driver and owned my own equipment, it worked well for me then and it works great for me now. Back to the subject, I use Marvel Mystery Oil in all my Model T and lawn mower fuel tanks and have never had a problem.
I have never used MMO, but remember the old timers swearing by it. I do use Bel Ray MC1, It keeps gas from going bad. This week I have been working on a motorhome that was last driven in 2012, in 2013 I added several ounces of MC1 to the gas tank and after siphoning out the gas (I needed to replace the filler hose that attaches near the bottom of the tank) I found the gas to be in very good shape for being over 5 years old. The engine started quickly with a new battery and I am burning the old gas in my farm pickup with out any problems. I have had some of the experts on this forum tell me I was lying about the time it keeps gas viable and that I was wasting my time adding it. Earlier this spring I started a pickup that had not been run since 2007. The throttle shaft was seized in the carburetor, but after breaking that loose with a pair of pliers, it too started with a squirt of fresh gas in the carb and took of and ran fine. Again, this gas was treated with BelRay MC1 2 cycle oil a short time after the vehicle was parked.
This is no surprise. The evidence has been out there for years. Still, it is a matter of preference what you choose to run in your "T". I run synthetic all in most of my machines because it get it at wholesale prices, so its not much more expensive for me than regular "dino" oil. With that being said, my Model T isn't a prolific oil leaker, and I probably only put on less than 500 miles during the driving season before that darn snow flies again. So I don't mind putting synthetic in the old beast. If things change, I'll re-think that approach.
Is this another MMO thread? Is it ok to comment? Well I'm not going to fire things up again. Yes, some of you know I use MMO in my T. I just thought I would tell you what happens when you use way too much of it. Not in my T. In my lawn mower. There was a bit of smoke that almost totally went away when the engine warmed up. The normally brutal vibration from the Briggs and Stratton engine was gone. Very smooth and quiet. Unfortunately, half the power was gone too. So from this, you can imagine the pros and cons of a normal dose of MMO in your T.
Too much MMO in your lawn mower ? What an innovative way to kill lawn moths !
I was just trying to shake the 'MMO' hornets nest on a quiet Sunday evening.... and ta see whoose watchun! Think I succeeded???
Have noticed busier than usual skies with some planes coming in to EAA starting 7/24. Local news tonight interviewed a fella with his home-built he piloted from Czechoslovakia. Neat! The Blue Angels are later this week, but betcha there will will be some 'Hornets' too! (Air Force guys will know!) Plus, we 'poke duh Baresz' around here all da time! Maybe my Packers contract will still come in the mail..... Tomorrow!
I talked with an AMSOIL dealer (they have been doing synthetic oils longer than anybody)and they DO NOT recommend their oils in any motor that uses felt oil seals, seems the felt does not do a good job of keeping the synthetic oil in the motor where it will do the most good. So I stick with a good quality dino oil in model t's and my 26 Buick.
Marv,None of what anyone say's or thinks matters as we all pay for our own repairs.The 2015 F-250 Ford want's their syn blend of oil.I like the Rotella 15-40 in everything else except the 14 which is running syn 5-40.When Joe Bell rebuilt the engine he got it sealed real good so no leaks!!I had a friend who had a 28 Buick in 1961 and it had class! Bud.
The only piece of equipment in which I used synthetic oil (Mobil 1) was my Generac standby generator. In the winter, it could be called upon to start at 0 degrees F and immediately spin up to 3,600 rpm. It would then run for 12 seconds before picking up the load that could be 10 KW. It deserved the best. I used 5W30. My car oil change interval is 3,000 miles, and it still would be with synthetic. My ''77 Olds wagon made 323,000 miles on regular 10W30 and it was still running well when I sold it due to advanced body rot.
Boy I hope Scott doesn't read this thread- it surely won't meet his posting criteria...
I think synthetics are going to dominate future oil sales, especially when it comes to warranty issues.
I'll bet if we could smuggle some MMO into the baptismal font down at First Ebenezer Congregational we wouldn't have so much trouble with our young ones.