Front axel shaking and wobble while driving.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2017: Front axel shaking and wobble while driving.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Pang on Monday, July 24, 2017 - 10:55 pm:

Hey all,

As I was driving my T, it began to shake and the car became wobbly as I drove. I needed to stop the car completely before driving and the shaking went away. This has nothing with engine I believe. More than likely it's it's front axel, perhaps a bushing? Or something that's loose? Please share any info on what to do about this if you can, thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Monday, July 24, 2017 - 11:10 pm:

That also happened to me and I replaced all the bushings to cure it


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Vern (Vieux Carre) on Monday, July 24, 2017 - 11:11 pm:

Hi Derrick,
Jack up a wheel at a time and spin it, also check it by rocking it back and forth whilst holding the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Then 12 an 6 position.
Check the radius rod connection to the crankcase, suspension bolts, tie link between wheels.
Check the spokes, bolts, looks like you have demountable bolts to check. I doubt you have a broken belt on a radial tire.
Vern


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Monday, July 24, 2017 - 11:55 pm:

Timely post Derrick! Oh crap! I had long forgotten your 21 is a Runabout! Goll, that thing is looking good. :-)
IF I have another person in the car, the 18 Runabout will do the "hippy hippy shakes" if I hit the dips in the driveway the right way.
At about 10-15 MPH.
I have three loose spots in the steering that I can find.
The new spindle bolts are loose in the axle. Need a Steven's rebuild (bushings in the top and threaded inserts for the bottom of the axle).
The steering bracket bushing (down at the lower end of the column shaft) is sloppy.
The upper column rivets (thru the column, the gear case and the spark/gas quadrant) are loose.
Are any of your shackles or your front spring binding?
As I understand it, also check the fit of the ball at the rear of the wishbone at the pan.
Keep us updated. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 12:27 am:

I owned a '25 roadster at one time that did the same thing. I replaced every bushing in the front end, including the shackle bushings. That cured the problem. I also filed the front radius rod ball cap to obtain a nice fit. I installed a new leather pad for the spring too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Pang on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 02:46 am:

I was told, that if the wishbone moved at all, It would need to be tightened. I will need to check that tomorrow. Otherwise, I will also look at all the bushings. Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Pang on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 02:52 am:

And thank you Duey! I will definitely post the results.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 05:17 am:

The answer to this problem is FRICTION.
It's an inherent instability in the system and it needs damping - friction. It was a common problem in the 1920s.
Those who have cured it by replacing parts have actually made movement stiffer - added friction.
If there is no excessive wear in any of the steering, then you can add friction by GENTLY tightening the spindle bolts - but make sure that the spindles are a good fit between the top and bottom arms of the axle; you don't want to bend them. You can add a steel shim washer at the bottom if necessary.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Miller, mostly in Dearborn on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 06:39 am:

Are your front wheels balanced? Loose parts will make the problem worse but often it's a lack of balancing that makes you notice things are loose.

If you have metal valve stems, there is about three ounces of imbalance that needs to be corrected. I use stick on weights but a colleague opts for solid core solder wrapped around the spoke and electrical taped so it's not that noticeable. Others may point out balancing beads do the same thing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andy Loso St Joseph, MN on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 07:07 am:

Duey, I have a Stevens tool. Just drop by and it you'll leave happy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Will Copeland - West Melbourne Florida on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 08:38 am:

I had the same problem, Turned out to be a frozen front spring shackle. Thats where I would start.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kent sumner on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 08:43 am:

I just went through this last evening on my newly rebuilt 26. absolutely everything was new on the front end. It didn't do this until about 100 miles was on it. seems after everything settled in the passenger side king pin was 1/2 turn loose. Tightened it up and shimmy wobble gone.

Check your kingpins for tightness.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 08:50 am:

I'm a graduate of the College of Overkill. Repair/replace every moving/removeable object that pertains to the entire front axle/steering gear and you'll have the sweetest ride you've ever had. And for a long long time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 09:10 am:

Derrick the best way to check out your front end for wobble and looseness is to jack it up and put 2 jack stands under each side of the frame.

You can then move the front wheels back and fourth easily along with using the steering wheel. You can easily see where the slack and loose movement is. You will be surprised what you might find!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 12:25 pm:

I found one nut at the end of one of the spindle arms was loose. I tightened it and the shimmy went away. Anything loose in the front axle can cause the problem This is what happens: you hit a slight bump which causes a movement in the loose parts. At a certain speed that shake will cause a harmonious vibration which just keeps bouncing back and forth. You can rebuild everything, but usually by careful checking of all the parts including wheel bearings, spokes ball joints, tie rod ends, steering column, pitman arm, spindle bolts, spring shackles you will find something loose or a shackle sticking. Fix the worn part or parts and the shake will be gone.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n LakeOzark,Missourah on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 07:07 pm:

Derrick, when I had worked on it last we replaced it with a good wishbone with a mint ball on it . The nuts attaching to front axle I had torqued to about 70lbs both sides and cotter keys installed. The ball joint was tightened and safety wired. I would check with the black service manual and and check the wheel bearings. clean and grease 'em up and snug according to instructions . As I recall we didn't get to those with all the work we put into it. As always I always look forward to your calls. Martyn too. For more assistance you can go to the LB Garage . Those guys LOVE to see you anyways.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 07:12 pm:

Sounds like a job for" Stevens Front Axle Tool"

By the why, there is one for sale on Tbay right now. Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 07:16 pm:

Check to make sure the pitman arm is tight on the steering shaft, by having a helper watch the pitman arm when you turn the steering wheel back & forth (with the front wheels still on the ground). This procedure will also reveal if the lower steering housing bolts to the frame are loose.

If the shaft turns without immediate movement of the pitman arm, the nut is too loose, even if it was tightened before and cotter pinned.

Remove the cotter pin from the nut and see if you can tighten the nut one more castellation, then replace the cotter pin.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George n LakeOzark,Missourah on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 07:41 pm:

Good idea Mark, thought I checked it but it has been awhile.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 08:14 pm:

They seem to loosen up over time, I have tightened the one on Betsy twice in the four years I have been driving her.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 10:07 pm:

we have done several front axle's at the garage Derrick if that is what is needed. I like Norm's approach :-) good seeing ya today and thanks again for the coil !


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Pang on Saturday, July 29, 2017 - 02:46 am:

We found that out that it may be a worn out bushing on the steering column. I am going to replace it and see if the shaking goes away. Thanks again everyone!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Derrick Pang on Saturday, July 29, 2017 - 02:47 am:

Glad to help Tom :-)


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