I discovered an issue I thought I should take care of. It was obvious with the trans door off, that my low speed pedal shaft would move about 1/8"-3/16" before it engaged the low speed notch. My initial thought was the pin had worn, and probably close to breaking in half.
Tonight I finished removing the hogs head and removed the low pedal. I drilled the mushroomed head of the pin and punched it out retaining as much as I could for inspection. To my surprise, the pin had minimal wear.
So with ball gauges and micrometer in hand, it appears the hole in the pedal is approximately .260" and the new pin measures out at .248". My shaft seems to be in satisfactory condition for reuse other than the pin hole seemingly a little big. So what can I do here? Any reason why the new pin is sold slightly undersize and not to .250"?
Find a bigger pin and drill the parts to accept it. I have read elsewhere on the forum that some have used a bolt and loctited or peened nut in this location, can others comment?
Mark, I did also think about a larger pin, but wasn't sure if I should go ahead with that.
If I do, is regular hot roll steel round stock ok?
(Message edited by Chad_Marchees on July 25, 2017)
I have seen bolts used. Not a good idea. The same thing will happen as now...the crest of the threads will pound small and the whole thing will go loose again...not to mention the risk of things simply coming apart...loctite or not. Cold or hot rolled will be fine. Cold rolled will have a better finish on the OD than hot rolled and would be my preference. Drill to match and peen in place. Easy peasy.
If you do use a bolt, just make sure the shank of it is long enough to do what is needed and fits the hole snugly, then just cut off the excess. You may or not find one that will work, you'll just have to look. If Loctite is used as directed, it won't come apart. Blue Loctite will hold and can be loosened with wrenches. Red will hold and probably work as well as a rivet and can't be removed unless heated with a torch. Just make sure the bolt isn't plated. JMHO Dave
most importantly, when using loctite, David's advice of "use as directed" is key to it performing correctly. All too many times folks will NOT use as directed and a faulty fastening is the result.
My belief is that since a rivet was originally used here, a replacement should be a rivet. A bolt in this application will NEVER be as tight as a rivet and you will end up with extra travel on the low pedal where nothing is happening (if not immediately, then soon after placed into service), allowing for a looser "tight" low band than wanted during hard pulling.
Your assembly is all apart, it's easy to do it right, so why not?
By the way, take this opportunity to ensure that the cam and notch are PERFECT and you're getting the correct amount of throw for low band. Now is the time to renew these parts if needed. Many a low drum has been cracked due to too tight a band adjusted that way to get a good low gear.
Scott, I was fortunate enough to get some 9/32" hot rolled rod without special ordering it from my local Metal Supermarkets. They had just ordered this non stocking item for another customer and still had 6 feet left over. I bought two feet.
Then I could make an oversize pin (from the stock 1/4" one), and not have to step all the way up to 5/16". This worked great! But wait a pain to try and peen over the bottom side. Supporting the bottom to peen the top was a non issue. I did also install a new low speed notch and all three pedal cams. So I should be good to go. Painted up the hogs head and hopefully ready for install on Sunday.
You will be very happy that you took this time to do it all.
I saw your other post on "what have you done to your T in July...you will be glad you removed the exhaust manifold for reassembly of the hogs head. I find that mysteriously, the hog's head comes off without too much trouble but can be a real pistol to replace if the exhaust manifold is there...