The War Wagon, we painted lusterless OD green, so a gloss black respray on the Depot Hack will be out first. We'll do the metal prep and treatment and a two part primer.
But I'm not in love with expensive two part automobile paint from the auto paint supplier. We do have a turbine hvlp system that my wife uses on the driveway in the best temperatures and humidity we can find. Our previous efforts have turned out well.
What are some gloss black paints to consider using on the fenders, running boards and hood? Is clear coat necessary?
I've read the $50 foam roller threads and I'm frugal, but not that cheap. And, I know it's a T. But, why not do the best job one can while not blowing the budget.
I'll hang up and listen. Play nice.
I may get flak for this, but appliance epoxy enamel works for me. It's better without primer. So far the wheels I did with it five years ago are doing fine.
You get what you pay for. I suspect sunlight is the biggest enemy of paint. If it's something you're gonna keep indoors the majority of the time, a cheaper paint may hold up OK. However, if it's something you intend to keep forever and use a lot, you'll probably never be sorry you sprung for the more expensive stuff.
It is easy to spend $200 using rattle cans, from experience. But I also have my own paint gun and access to a complete paint booth. I say do whatever the Georgia laws allow you to do, from someone who used to live in Decatur.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dupont-Nason-Ful-Cryl-II-super-jet-black-acrylic-enamel- restoration-shop-paint/390486789909?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p20603 53.m1438.l2649
I buy acrylic enamel single stage kits on ebay. I paint them in my side yard, and they turn out okay. Home made wood bodies. A nice still day, a water filter on your air compressor and you will be good to go. lol Works for me.....
Check out Tractor Supply.. Cheap paint, works well but you get what you pay for.
If you want shine and protection may I suggest simple basic rustoleum. Once you have a good coat down, and this will sound wrong sand with 320 and use a good automotice clear coat.
The beauty of doing it this way is you can recoat as many times as you want with the rustoleum before spraying the clear.
A few weeks ago I went down to my local auto parts store where I have bought Centauri for decades and got some bad news. Centauri acrylic enamel is being all but discontinued. They only had two colors, black and white, and they no longer could mix other colors. The minimum quantity of Centauri 99 gloss black that I could buy was 1 gallon. And it cost me $200 for the gallon.
I suspect the days of painting parts of your car at home may be numbered.
There's always Gilsonite . . . and a brush !
The Nason Line offers a single stage urethane that sprays very comparable to Centari. In fact I thought the coverage was a bit better. Nason is Axulta"s shop line they bought DuPont. I probably have sprayed more DuPont Centauri 99A than most individuals l think I somewhere over 500 gallons and change is hard but the Nason line seems a good value for antique car restorers. I also have sprayed a lot of two tone paint jobs in Chromabase which is a base coat clear coat system with good results. I do think they are making it harder on individuals to buy and spray for home use but not impossible yet.
The turbine system can do an excellent job, and it is really frugal with paint. Mark's posting is pretty good advice; you can get a "hardener" to add to the urethane that helps it dry faster and is a bit more durable--BUT wear proper breathing protection and put on a Tyvek coverall "suit" and wear gloves. It will help prevent you from absorbing the bad chemicals, and when you're done painting, you take off the "suit" and you don't smell of paint.
Ah! Come one, Henry has just flipped in his grave. Although, very frugal in his days it makes no sense to try to save anything when it comes to today's technology when paint is concerned.
Paint is what people see not what is under the hood.
"Look at the shine", father says to the son, "look at the shine".
It is simple!
PPG product called Deltron DP to exposed medal.
Body work over DP.
DP again if necessary.
You can run a sealer over it or paint over the DP.
Deltron DBC base/ clearcoat.
You can use shop line clearcoat if yo must, but, my opinion is stay away from omni, it's known if you wet sand the UV protection is gone, clear flakes away.
Or! Just use DCC single stage 9300 black or I think there is an ultra black, DCC or DDL, not sure what product line.
As you can see, I am a fan of PPG, although, I am also fond of other products as well including, but not limited to, House of Colors.
Black is not black anymore, you can mix all different variances.
I agree Omni isn't very good. I do like the PPG under coats DP epoxy primers lost their appeal to me when they became DP LF. k200 is good but almost exactly the same as many Marhyde high build primers that available at about 2/3 the price. In the end use the system that works well for you and how you are trained and you will have good results. Don't skimp on the prep because doing it twice is expensive and be very careful. Try to cover all exposed skin and use the proper respirators for your application. I don't do it every day anymore after 20 plus years in the shops I finished my education and now just do it to supplement my teaching income. Keep restoring and take your time and try not to hurt your health with this stuff.
The Nason single stage is supposed to be very similar to centari. I've used it with great success, and am using it for my '11 when I repaint it this month (not black, I am using a very dark fleet blue). That was the link I posted before. It's good and reasonably priced for a single stage enamel.
Oh ya! When I was a kid, 1970 or so, working a summer job with a painter/bodyman sanding the hoods of a bus fleet from yellow to matte black one thing that stood out is this guy was a mess health wise.
He must have been still playing with lead and wet sanding with gasoline.
Kirker offers a complete line of single stage acrylic enamel paints, including Jet Black. They also offer up all type of primers, primer-surfacers, reducers and thinners. I'm using their products on my restoration. Excellent quality. Check their website for local distributors.
I've used TCP Global's Restoration Shop single stage acrylic enamel for a while now. It can either be mixed with their hardener, or just brushed on and allowed to cure over a couple days. It self-levels nicely as well. Just like all good paint jobs, what you do for prep really determines the finished quality of it. I wold use a good primer or build-primer, sand it with 600 grit sand paper, and try to paint in as clean an environment as possible.
STOP! Go to the hardware store and get there water base paints and learn to use it. Because the next time you paint that is all you will be able to buy.
I agree with Steve Jelf above, and what he says is true.
If you choose to use appliance epoxy enamel (like I did on my stove, and then my T), you DON'T use a primer like you would think.
I called the company and they confirmed this!
Both appliance and T looking great after several years, and the application was relatively easy.
Just my 2 cents worth.
I'll be painting my rear wheels this week.
I go with Steve on this, too. I've used the epoxy spray paint on projects for the past few years and have been more than pleased with the results.
Dupont Imron 2 part epoxy will give you the best, most durable, longest lasting and glossiest shine, but it is expensive. I painted my 1926 coupe with it in 1996 and it still looks as if it was just painted. Jim Patrick
When I painted my '23, I wasn't looking for the deepest shine or the smoothest surface. I was a college kid on a budget and getting access to proper spraying equipment was nearly impossible. I'm sure I'll get a lot of crap for this from someone, but I hope it's not here. Remember, we're trying to keep this civil!
I read an article in Hot Rod Magazine (That's allowed here, right?) about what they called the $98 paint job. Here's a link to it:
Since I couldn't do a "professional" job on my car, I went this route. It turned out pretty good for a driver, and that's all I was going for. A couple quarts of gloss Black Rustoleum, some foam rollers and a gallon or two of cheap thinner. My primer was basically free, as the school I was attending received a bunch of discontinued paints and primers from a farm store in town.
Would I have painted it differently if I had access to the "good stuff"? Probably. But I was on a budget and had limited facilities. Whenever I see something in the paint I don't like, I just take her out for a drive and get some road dust on it. Problem solved.
Your mileage may vary. This is just one (broke) guy's opinion.
I just remembered a flaw in my thinking from some years ago. "If I just buy spray paint in an aerosol can, then I only have to get that same can out later and touch up any scratches or repair work." This is a fail because all paints will eventually fade and it will never match right. So, if you want to rattle can it, do it for a different reason.
For those of you that use the Rustoleum line of paints, does anyone purchase the cans and then spray it through a compressor or turbine? If so, what do you thin it with and do you add a hardener.
I'm looking at the gallon of colors and spraying it through my Fuji turbine HVLP system and it says to think with paint thinner or mineral spirits, but does not refer to a hardner. The ability to spray a color and then have some rattle cans of the same product line for touchup or small parts is of interest to me.
Also, on the Depot Hack, if I go with a color for the hood, fenders and running boards, I presume I would leave the roling chassis gloss black as it is now?
I'm looking at a dark leather brown to highlight the woodwork of the hack body, but don't want to end up with too many different colors on it and making it come out like a circus wagon.
Maybe I should grab the paint while I can. This is from the Rustoleum seller's listing:
NOTE: This item banned in VOC restricted areas. I can not ship to locations were it is banned.
Banned in AZ, CA, DE, IL, IN, MA, ME, NH, NJ, NY, OH, PA, RI, and VA.
Just realized I shifted gears on the posting title of gloss black and now I'm thinking some sort of dark color. But the general information is still great.
Rustoleum is $39 a gallon. Primer and some thinner and I can probably paint what little metal work I have on the hack for under $100. And, it sounds like the Rustoleum product line has some followers as to quality and durability.
I sprayed our patio furniture this spring with Rustoleum hammered finish copper paint using a turbine sprayer and it turned out perfect. Seems like I thinned it with Zylol. I also painted a front axle assembly using Majic brand tractor paint with hardener a few years ago and it looked fine. Leveled out nicely. I wet sanded the primer with 320 first and it all looks better than most T's. I would also consider using Valspar truck and tractor paint for a driver. If its all prepped correctly it will look fine.