There were few burner bases in my gas lamp parts so I elected to make some. The one I had for a pattern was 12 gauge and threaded for the mounting screws. Others I have seen are thinner and use nuts for the screws. I am not sure what type Corcoran used. One type similar to mine is offered from suppliers apparently for several brands of lamp.
The hole for the pipe is punched through leaving some extruded metal as extra support. This punch through technique is also used for the holes in the little mirror wedges and then threaded. I turned a mandrel to the same O D as the pipe and tapered it like a punch. Then drilling a small hole (1/4") I could press the mandrel through the hole leaving the extruded metal like the original.
The pipe is pressed in place and then soldered to the plate.
I also made the mirror wedges. I could press a small punch through without pre-drilling. then tapped it for #6-32 screws. The wedges for the other style of Corcoran had through holes not tapped.
The final operation was to curve the burner plate to match the lamp curvature. Some maple blocks worked well in the press for this.
The next step is to make some pipe elbows.
Rich, Very Nice!
Those are some fine looking stands.
I had problems with the vendor stands because they put the burners too high in my John Brown 16's and I couldn't adjust the beam "up" out in front of the car. The really neat thing you are doing is making the thick base where you can slide the nipple up and down to get the burner right where you want it and then solder or weld it to the base.
A high stand puts the flame too high in front of the Mangin mirror and consequently the beam too close in front of the car. The mirror inverts the shape of the flame and I like the flat top of the "fishtail" to hit the road at about 60 feet in front of the car.
I couldn't make the thick base so my solution was to use a 1/8" NPT brass nipple from the hardware store and chased the barrel of it with a NPS 18-27. Put a brass washer and nut top and bottom to tighten nipple to the John Brown burner slot. I have some Victor gas lamps that have that setup in them. Essentially, an all-thread nipple with NPT ends for the elbow and the burner. I like the idea of metal base stand better though if you can just get the height right.
Ken in Texas
Nice job!!! I envy the skills you guys have.
You are such a craftsman! You do nice work.
Did you do headlamp repair using threaded rivets?
Ken, mine are a little high and I will trim them to size.
I might mention that I put a little grease on the mandrel to keep it from galling when pushing it through.
Keith, I used slotted screws and nuts for now. I with make rivets when everything is adjusted to fit.
Nice! As always! Are you sure, that in some sort of a past life, that maybe you didn't help Henry build his prototypes?
Life is good.
Wayne, what I like to do is certainly inspired by Henry and all his followers who enjoy his cars.
Today I was enjoying how beautiful the red hose for the lighting is. Some days the car work is as good as can be.
All fired up!
Add a few kerosenes and you're ready to go to town. Running the acetylenes adds another dimension to the fun of the brass cars. Very nice work and they will see you coming from a mile away.
Ken in Texas