Being this is my first re build on my 26 , I have a few questions. First how do I remove the gear from the axel. Looks like a couple of keepers kinda like on a new auto valve. The gear is on pretty tight and do not want to damage it. I have the service cd but some pictures are hard to see. Second my thrust washer looks to be breaking down and the three bolt heads holding the gear assy together rubbed the outer case slightly so I ordered the modern bearing and washers along with new bolts and shims. Looks like I may have to put longer alignment pins in to hold the added height. Iam I on the right track with my thinking. Thank you in advance for any help.

Eck, as to your first question, a hydraulic press is a must. To remove the gear you actually have to press the gear slightly further onto the axle to remove the two lock ring halves. Hope this helps.

Have a press Afraid of damage if did not ask. Try not to use too much force at first. Thank you

Eck, if you are trying to save the axle, pushing the gear ONTO the shaft so that the retainers can be removed, can be a nasty job. Support the taper on the axle in a spare wheel hub and press gently. Too much pressure can/will bow the axle.

If you just want to save the gear, try the above. If it won't budge, just cut the axle an inch or two behind the gear, support it on a plate and press away.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

I was not trying to save the axle shafts as they were both worn and bent already, so as stated above I cut the axle shafts to make it easier to press the gears off. No idea why, but the gears look brand new for as bad as the shafts were... FYI It took 18 tons on the press gauge to even budge them. This was with a bit of heat and some penetrating oil.

I don't like the sound of "I ordered the modern bearing...". If that's the FP pinion bearing, right on. I do the same. If it's something else, maybe not.

If you're not using Glen Chaffin's axle book, I'd say get it and follow it (except for the FP bearing).

I should have been more specific. The modern bearings I would avoid are these seven-roller replacements (left) for Hyatt bearings (right).

Eck

Think you mean the modern 'needle bearing' thrust washers. IMO, they don't work out all the time.



The tiny needles get a lot of thrust on them, and haven't been my choice as have removed a set that I installed.

Stick with the Ford original style big and sturdy and thick, adjustable by milling or sanding down to proper thickness in gear lash adjustment, bronze thrust washers.

Thank you all. I have Glen Chaffin's book and following it the best I can. Having trouble with part names and location of smaller parts. I love the in process photos posted and are a big help. I have had this car for 35 years and not had it on the road but working hard to bring her back. This is the last hurdle before bodywork. It will be driven asap. One of my axels has a damaged taper hub end and wanted to replace so would not need a shim. However I hate to cut it to remove the gear. at a crossroads. Other shaft is useable with some ware. I only have a 12 ton press so trying to decide if I trust a machine shop. I looked for new gears but could not find any which suprises me for looks like rest of gears are produced. Cleaning parts as instructed and inspecting. Thank you for your help as this is my first T and have been thru the engine and transmission bands, lost nut cleaning. Also is there a ez way to re install the break spring.